Seeking some instruction for starting seeds indoors

12 years ago

I would like to start my tomato plants from seed this year using a grow light system. In the past, I have always purchased seedlings, but I'd like to start my garden from seeds this year. I think it'll be cheaper and in many ways more rewarding. Can anyone recommend a link to a video or step-by-step guide to growing tomato plants from seed including specific light set-ups, soil, daily light time, etc.

Thanks,

Don

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Comments (7)

digdirt2
12 years ago
For starters there is lot of info in the FAQs here at GW.

GW FAQs: How to grow tomatoes from seed

Growing from Seed FAQs

Dave
simmran1
12 years ago
Don,

I like the videos at Grow Organic Peaceful Valley).
Johnny's Selected Seeds and Territorial have similar
seed starting videos. Specific light setups are a 4' shop light, BUT with a reflector. The T-8 Daylight, (6500k) lamps work well and use less energy than the older T-12's plus most have an electronic ballast. Good growing, R.S.

Here is a link that might be useful: Groworganic
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i always plant my seed in 4" X 6" containers and put the seed into rows, 8 or 9 per row going in the 4" direction, i use tweezers to put 1 seed in the right spot tedious but it works well. one year i just sprinkled seed to see the difference. i decided that sprinkling seed did not produce seedlings that developed as well as when i did rows. maybe they were too close? i went back to planting in rows. greenhouses have onions in containers that are very crowded and they seem to do ok as far as attaining a good size for planting out but i'm sure they over fertilize for the growth otherwise people may not buy them if the plants were small and thin. personally i prefer allowing the plants to have more room. i have 1 4' X 6" of red wing about 75-80 plants and 2 containers of copra about 150-160 plants. tom
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Yes. they try to sell off these weak fibre pots as a way to go but I started noticing these moulds.. awful awful molds. It's same thing though that i had experienced with homemade newspaper or cardboard rolls. I guess its not very PC to say so. One could say it is not a good green practise. but on the other hand we would need chemicals to combat mould. that isnt terribly PC either. Interestingly though I have not had such problems with the pop up ones. I am very familiar with the burying the tomato plants up to the top so yes I've done it many many times over. I also have started new plants from cuttings. Last year I found myself too successful with more tomatoes than i could possibly plant outdoors. A little trick if you have access to sand.. Sprinkle sand on top of your germinating seeds. This helps discourage mold build up at the top of the soil. It also moderates water loss. It however is not effective if one is using any fiber type pots and mold is developing deep beneath the soil. I use this method as well when I do cuttings with any plants from boxwood to lavenders Also, if you have a circulating fan, use it. This builds stronger stems. I came upon this trick from another grower and find that it is true. It also reduce mold incidents.
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I have been starting flower seeds indoors for years and have a great deal of experience with success and failure. I wanted some information on heating mats and saw the discussion. Last year was the first year I used a heat mat but had to buy new ones this year due to losing my home and contents to a fire. I bought one mat from a trusted garden supply (too expensive) 2 off the internet, and recently a kit with mat from a big box store. On this last one I was appalled that the directions stated you should put the mat on a timer. I was told by my trusted garden shop that I needed the timer on the lights but that mats need to be on 24/7, which I already knew. So when I read the box, I hit the internet for answers. I have used a small enclosure off the finished part of the basement for my plant room, with grow lights timers, shelves, etc. and have had some wonderful results. When they did the rebuild I told them I wanted the same but refined. I have four outlets with a programmable timer and 4 outlets without timer for heat mats. I just started my first tray last night with heating mat, dome and light about 2" above dome, giving them 8 hours of darkness each day. I do not have a thermostat but a thermometer. My home thermostat drops to 64 while at work 5 days a week, to 67 during the night and is around 70-72 the rest of the time. So I will am hoping the mat will make up for the fluctuations. Even though I have been growing from seed indoors for years, I still need lots of help. Over the years I have heard that seeds do not need light to germinate, only heat. Others say they need both. I have always heard that once the seedlings emerge, both the dome and heat goes off. I have notes that say light should be no more than 6" above plants while others say no more than 1". I look forward to hearing more comments from newbies and veterans by joining this group. In the meantime, I just hope my snapdragons, impatiens and coleus I started last night will be off to a good start. I started later than I wanted and will be adding more tomorrow until all four mats and four hanging lights on the new plant are filled with trays. (and by the way, I freeze the seed packs before planting which shortens germination time too) Just thinking about my sad stories of losing plants from damping off, leggy plants, etc. but hope I can help others while learning more while waiting for Spring and a new garden in my newly built home. To think of the great results I have had with just egg cartons, covered with elastic bowl covers, near home heat source in front of sunny window, transplanted to Activia yogurt (perfect size) cups friends saved for me. So much fun learning on a small investment! Your thoughts are appreciated.
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You might want to start by reading through all the FAQs and tips over on the Growing from Seed forum here. Not only have you mixed varieties with different germination temps and times in the same tray but without a soil thermometer control you really have no way of knowing what the soil temps are, especially if in a cool room. The pellets are famous for very slow germination even under ideal circumstances so are far from the ideal and not recommended. But if you explore the FAQs, monitor them carefully, don't OVER-water, and be patient you will get some germination. Growing from Seed forum Dave
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robertpummer
12 years ago
I have an article about this in the link below ... hope this helps ... Robert

Here is a link that might be useful: Starting Seeds Indoors
aloha10
12 years ago
Go to You Tube and type in tomatoes and you will find many helpful videos. I particularly recommend nctomatoman and his series of videos. You need not duplicate all of his techniques but he has many hints and kinks that are very helpful and productive. Pretty solid and reliable....almost as good as Digdirt.
Victor
Zinnia1
12 years ago
I completely understand your question. I searched Google using "Growing tomatoes from seed" and Google returned 7.6 million, yes 7.6 MILLION, hits! How does one sort through it all?

Personally, I don't do anything special. I just start my seeds and put them under grow lights in my basement after they germinate. The one tip from the internet I took to heart and it really made a difference, with all my seedlings, not just tomatoes, was to make sure there was a gentle air flow blowing over my seedlings. I use a small fan, but sometimes just run my hand over the seedlings. The air flow is crucial since the movement it causes strengthens the stems.
stacyp9
12 years ago
There is a great place called Tomato ville (one word) on the web that details this at great length. Wherever you go, here are some of the most important bits of information.

Use a seedling mix to start your seeds, not a soil mix which will be too heavy.

Do not bury the seeds too deep!

It is OK to have plastic over the soil to get the seeds sprouted but as soon as they sprout, remove the cover. Excess moisture will kill your seedlings faster than anything else.

This time of year you are unlikely to have the sun intensity coming thru windows that will give you fat stocky seedlings. Supplement with grow lights. Keep the bulbs very low, just over the top of the seedlings for best results. I move my seedlings outside into a cold frame as soon as they have their first true set of leaves.

Bottom water seedlings. Moisture on leaves increases disease.

Airflow via a fan in the room or natural air currents helps prevent disease and make stockier stems.

Don't fertilize until you have the first set of true leaves and then make it very very weak.

If you get stretching due to low light, transplant into deeper containers and carefully bury the step up to just below the top set of leaves. A tall weak seedling is bad. Stocky strong seedlings is what you want.

Get the plants into natural light as soon as feasible

Plant a few extra for the times you, your pets or your kids kill things accidentally. If everything survives, give the extra plants away!

Have fun! You are right, growing from seed is way more rewarding. Plus in doing so, you reduce the chances of bringing diseases into you yard as well as greatly expanding the variety of things you can grow.
kathywide
12 years ago
Here are some step-by-step instructions for growing tomatoes from seeds, including videos on linked pages.

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing tomatoes from seeds

Seeking some instruction for starting seeds indoors

Comments (7)

digdirt2

simmran1

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