Garage floor 3-4“ below grade
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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- 7 years ago
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Cost difference in above grade sq ft vs below grade?
Comments (13)Thanks, everyone, for your replies! I apologize- I've been super busy lately and haven't had the time to reply until now. I agree that changing the look from my original, utmost, desire- the farmhouse look- is a decision that needs to be weighed carefully. I definitely don't want to become unhappy with our exterior down the road. However, I have always liked the look of the Cedar Ridge by Don Gardner, and I think I could make that exterior look right with my first floor and still be happy. Do you think it would look ok as a farmhouse? A preliminary rendering of our design, for a comparison: Originally we wanted approx 2500sq ft house. Because of my requirements for the 1st floor, the house ballooned to 3600 sq ft, split nearly evenly. Now I'm worried, because of the increased sq footage, that we won't be able to afford the upgrades- nice kitchen, central vac, nice deck, etc. I also would like to make sure I can still take my kids on vacations and live a decent life. I don't want to invest all my money in a structure just because I'm drawn to certain look. I'm trying to find that balance between what I WANT and what I NEED. I definitely need to reserve room in the basement for all my equipment. We'll have a Waterfurnace and all the pipes for radiant heat, water softener, water heater, etc, etc. Can't forget to include that in my planning! Thanks for the reminder, @kymike1! I need to call my mortgage guy and just talk this over with him. @stillwaters- we want to do ICF from the basement, up to the roof. We'll spray foam the roof. We also want our first floor to be handicap friendly. We haven't received any actual quotes back yet, but with everything else that we've had quoted so far, we've been UNpleasantly suprised....so that's what we're expecting for the house quote! :) I know it will all be worth it some day- just can't wait for that day to get here!!!! I've started blogging about it, if you're interested in reading some of my thoughts. It's fairly new, and I don't post very often yet, but plan to do better as we get going on the build. Here is a link that might be useful: Kelly's ICF blog (just getting started on it!)...See MoreCurbless shower on below grade slab
Comments (9)First..do a moisture test on your existing slab. You want to see if moisture vapor is coming up into the basement from under the slab. Tape a 2' square sheet of poly on the floor and see if there is any moisture under it after 48 hours. If the moisture is significant, it might play into what type of membrane you use on the floor. Memebranes like Hydroban and Kerdi have similar properties when it comes to liquid moisture, yet differing properties when it comes to moisture vapor transmission. Significant moisture drive could actually lift and delaminate a topical membrane from the slab. If you have under-slab drainage or radon ventilation pipes, and foundation perimeter footing drains, you should be in fine shape. I'd make it a wet room, pretty much follow Bill's advice; -slope the entire floor to the drain. -topical membrane on the entire floor and up about 6" on all the walls, or just fully membrane all the walls. Fully membrane the shower walls. -ventilation. Don't skimp. This room will be cool and the basement itself is typically humid, so latent drying action will be less than in an upstairs bathroom. Do what you can to eliminate moisture vapor as it is generated. -I'd not insulate or heat the floor. You might have to balance relative humidity in the basement as a whole with a heat source in the bathroom. If you do have vapor drive into your basement, it might help to have something as simple as an IR bulb on a timer to help with the initial drying of the room. For a humid, slow-to-dry shower environment; A non-porous porcelain tile might be better than a porous natural stone tile. An epoxy type of grout might be better than a portland-based grout....See MorePart of first floor below grade?
Comments (5)Some areas will require a drain field that abuts the upslope side. In other words, a reverse slope on the north side which causes the downhill flow to be directed away from the building, to the side yards too resume the natural flow to the street. Also, the north side foundation being higher than 2'6," will be engineered as a retaining wall, so a french drain will be needed to address the hydrology....See MoreHelp me figure out flooring for my mom's below-grade condo?
Comments (9)I am confused with below grade slab and daylight, sounds more on grade than anything else. I would not use a tarkett fiber floor. I am sure you want to float the vinyl and the only way to go is Congoleum's Air Step Plus or Air step evolution. It is not your typical fiberglass floor, can float entirely or be just perimeter fastened and is guaranteed by Congo not to buckle. There is no other floor like it and Air step plus is relatively inexpensive. Armstrong also makes one `kind of similar but not the same. No one else...period.I am sitting here racking my brain and this would be the choice for the specifications you indicate. I have a ton of info on why no other ones comes close. Scotchguard..silver treated for anti microbial properties..12 mil..decent cushion to it..20 year warranty..the real deal and its the only floater that the manufacturer does not give itself a ton of sniffle clauses on why it should be glued. And USA made entirely which is another good thing and very green product....See More- 7 years ago
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