I see there is interest in this so I'll link to my animal communicator's website. The communicator, Gayle Nastazi, has always been very helpful to me. I have used her services with many of my cats in various situations; from dire emergencies (missing animal- found after 3 weeks!), to behavioral issues, to intergration and rescue issues with feral and abandonned cats that come into my care. I always learn something from every session. Although I know the whole idea strikes some people as pretty far-fetched (and that's OK), I feel comfortable saying that it has worked very effectively for me, and that I think it makes resolution of some difficult issues much easier. One thing I can say for certain is that Gayle is completely legitimate. I have met her in person. I also have no financial interest in this referral - just a hope that my suggestion might be useful. Click on the clink below and look for the Animal Communication link at the top left of the page. Carry on from there if you are interested. RE: Various Animal pee cleaners/destinkes - I think many (most?) employ some kind of enzyme. My conclusion after using all of them is that after the bottles are opened and partly used that it's possible that exposure to air in the emptying bottle degrades the enzyme significantly. It always seems to me that they work like gangbusters at first and then less so, particularly if not used up in a short time. Then I try another brand and it seems to work better (even tested side by side), but eventually poops out, too. I have tried Odor-X, Nature's Miracle and Get Serious, along with scads of others. The pattern seems to hold for all, so now I only buy in quarts not gallons, even though it's 'way cheaper in big jugs. I haven't experimented with decanting a gallon into smaller jars and keeping them closed until I've used up the other portions. Also I find it's helpful to vigorously shake the plastic bottle before applying. The idea mentioned by olychik about using rags is v. interesting and I will keep it mind. I hope that my link may be useful to you. Here is a link that might be useful: Link to Gayle Nastazi, Animal Communicator's webpage

Whoa.... Get up there and soak it with Nature's Miracle. From above in the attic (that's a lot of pee) and what you can on the walls. You might have to skim coat it again. I would, actually. Nature's Miracle is an enzyme that neutralizes cat pee. Nothing else (no dogs, etc.) but cat pee. You have to let it dry out, though, before you paint again. I speak from experience that even the best stain blocker (see above) can't block cat pee. Even one actually made for drywall, i.e. Kilz stain blocking primer. Oil or not. Humidity brings the aroma [cough] right back out. Did I mention experience?

If you would allow me to chime in here as someone who has cleaned thousands of area rugs (thanks squirrel for the title :-)) Very briefly.... Enzyme based products are safe to use on all rugs. Enzymes eat the protiens in urine, blood, etc. The enzymes do not make a rug bleed. Enzyme based cleaners are marketed under different names, choose one and use it asap when a spot is discovered. Whether or not a spot/stain will come out is a whole 'nuther story and based upon various factors, the same as why some rugs bleed and others don't--more reasons than I can list here at the moment. Rugs come into my shop daily with some type of pet accident, so trust me when I say I've seen them all, including the accidents my own pets make at home :D Having been a member of GW for so many years, I think I should put together an easy to read 'how to' list about tackling pet accidents. Your questions and comments are most insightful. Jane

Thanks to everyone for all your advice. 1) I looked into Smart Strand. It appears Home Depot carries it but under a different name. It looked quite nice-- much nicer than a patio rug-- however it was a little expensive for me (around $4 per square foot--$600+ just for material not counting the cost of binding) considering that I don't know for sure whether I'd be able to get any future smells out or not. (Yes, I am cheap, or as I prefer to think of it, "thrifty".) My husband and I were thinking about it, though. 2) I will ask the vet about Kitty Prozac. My problem cat isn't Siamese --he's just an insecure baby. Ironically, our other cat *is* part Siamese. She is not possessive, just full of self-confidence and has never, ever had an "accident". 3) I'll also look into Fizzion cleaner in the future. That's one I haven't tried. Other research I've done suggests that polypropylene or olefin WITHOUT a jute backing is best material in a generic sense. Apparently jute tends to hold odors. Finally though-- here's what I've settled on: I looked up my old Overstock order for the existing stinky rug to see exactly what it's specs were. The rug is three years old. To my amazement, Overstock still carries it and it's on sale for $225. This is a 10' x 13 rug--- big. At that price it's a no-brainer. Especially since I really like the existing rug. It doesn't look or feel like a cheap rug, IMO. I am also getting a good felt pad to put underneath. My theory is that a felt pad will soak up excess fluid so the rug won't absorb as much, and then I could cut bad spots out of the pad and tape new felt back in. Also I'm going to put a sheet of plastic between the pad and wood floor to protect the wood floor. Thanks again for all the advice, Ann