Gloria: not to be a bummer but, your best defense going organic with CAR will be planting resistant trees from my experience. From what I've read, the sulfurs won't work very well against CAR, in addition they shouldn't be sprayed when the temps. get above 85-90F (I think) or they will burn the foliage. They can be washed off easily leading to freqent sprays which is O.K. if you have the time and the weather cooperates during the infection periods (wet weather). Between resistant trees and very diligent organic methods you might do fine, I don't know, but I heartily applaud your effort. Keep us informed. You will learn what does and doesn't work for you which is what it is all about. Oh yes, I have benefitted enormously from having a digital camera with macro capabilities. The plant pathology lab @ K-state accepts images for diagnostic purposes. Olpea: have you seen the link below? Probably applies better to your local than mine in the NC part of the state. It is for commercial growers but highly educational if one can comprehend it. I had to print the beast out and poured over it for hours referencing other materials in the process. Here is a link that might be useful: 2009 Midwest Tree Fruit and Spray Guide

jimdean59, I ran a search on troubleshooting Poulan Wild Thing 18" chain saw and saw lots of potential info at the 1st page. The page address is below and a youtub on the page address is below. The quality of the youtube was not good but compression release was mentioned. I wonder if your compression release is not working and if it would feel as a violent kick back?? Hopefully the big and new saws experienced users will Jump in and share. I have learned that I have little to no experience on saws above the 70s or large saws with compression release systems. But! My Old School Basics 2-Cycle Basics Still Goes A Long Ways. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jei9xQw5IzA Here is a link that might be useful: troubleshooting Poulan Wild Thing 18

Hi Saintpfla Since you probably heard all the possible answers on your citrus problems, I am going to tell you what I know and saw at Echo last time that I was there in the tour for the fruit trees and people asked the same questions like you did. The expert planted the tree for demonstration in a mound, he said so the rains don't flood the tree. Made a hole without amending and put the tree in, situated so it looked the best and then added compost only on the sides. The older citrus trees had a big mulch on the sides but without touching the trunk (important) a lot of people asked about this and he said is okay. After that he went on to the bugs that affect the citrus like thrips and he said this year with the cold they had not much problem but otherwise they spray some sort of oil, somebody asked neem? and he said no, he did not give the name because I don't think is available for us. Now I have my private story to tell you, just remember I am no expert. I had wonderful citrus in Arizona, never had a problem or bugs or disease, did not even look at them and they had a crop that I had to give it away. They had small rocks underneath because I xeriscape in my yard. Now when I came to this house I bought some citrus, few of the same varieties like my neighbor, I only found that out when I went to visit her place because she asked for help with the citrus. I went again recently and 2 of her trees are dead and the same 2 of mine are still alive. I went over what they do and what I do, and this is what we did differently, she fertilize with some sort of spikes, I use the Sunniland brand for citrus. When we got hit with the winter, I cover just the trunks of the trees, she only covered the tops. Sometimes when I spray the tomatoes, I will use the leftover spray on the citrus, she does not use anything because she said some expert told her the damage of thrips is only cosmetic. If you try to foliar feed when is not hot just early morning or evening there is a chelated citrus nutritional spray by Southern Ag that you can get I think at HD. I hope that you get your citrus back to health and producing for you. Silvia

Hello, dear avocado lovers. My indoor avocado tree is 1.5 year old and up till now was doing great. Recently we moved to new flat and then problems started. First of all, its leaves became "sad", looking downside. Second, almost all old leaves have a brown tip. At last, it started to loose its old leaves. Could you help me to find what has happened with my avocado tree? Some info regarding its environment - germinated from a seed in a glass of water, whole life has been growing in a pot without hole. Based in Lithuania, so it almost does not get direct sun light, but it was not a problem at least till now. Could the problems be caused by floor heating? Thank you in advance. Marius