Tobacco based pest control
Jaycee
7 years ago
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Dave
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
GH pest control
Comments (40)You're not going to be able to totally get rid of your bugs until you've had several hard freezes outside. The ones that are outside are going to get back in. The best you can hope for now is to keep the levels down. The fogger machine works because the bugs can't get away from it. When you coat the tops and bottoms of the leaves at the same time and all the surfaces on the bugs get coated with something that either penetrates their bodies or smothers them, it's just not good news for them. Of course you have to keep at it every few days because ones that are in egg stages still hatch and have to be killed too. No--I didn't get the cheapest fogger they had because I needed higher volume to fill my larger greenhouses. I didn't see what size your greenhouses are. Maybe a smaller one would work. Another plus is that you don't have to be in there at all while you fog, always good when working with chemicals. Your most infested plants, you should get them out of the greenhouse. If destroying them is not an option, cut them back, and pull all the leaves off of them and give them a dormant oil spray like for a fruit tree and then put them back. You need a good coverage with any spray, but especially a dormant oil spray. It works by smothering pests and eggs and it will damage soft stemmed plants, but it sounds like they're damaged anyway. It's a last resort option. Rotate your sprays, different brands of sprays work the same way. For example some attack the nervous system. If you use a spray that attacks the nervous system 3-4 times in a row, even if it's a different brand, then it'll quit working as the bugs adapt. I put a link on there for you to a chart, the chart starts on page 3 of the link. What I did was to print out the chart and then take it to my bug killers and look at the chemicals on the bug killers, then when you find what class they're in, write the class on it with a big magic marker number on the front. Then you rotate your sprays according to action and class. Use a calendar to schedule and rotate your sprays. Write down what you used, what strength you mixed it and what date. Insecticidal soap is a good one to use in between sprays if you can't remember what you used last time because it's not one they can get used to at all, but good coverage is the whole key, so therefore the fogger really helps. I've been doing this for a living now for 3-4 years and I had terrible trouble with bugs the first couple of years until I got the fogger and got my spray rotations happening. Yes, it will cause the humidity to go up, but you can always heat and vent it back out. Just don't water too much either. It sounds like you also have problems with high humidity, overcrowding and possibly overwatering. Good luck, and if you need any support, you can e-mail me, too. Here is a link that might be useful: insecticides modes of action...See MorePest Control
Comments (7)We don't have much of a problem with bugs in the gardens, except those nasty Japanese beetles that devour everything in their path. If I could find something other than a heavy duty dust or spray, like Sevin, to eradicate those, I'd be happy. Last year, those beetles completely ate the brussells sprouts and some other vegetables in the raised beds....See Morepest control
Comments (15)I ditched the systemic because it had a fertilizer in it...plus I wasn't sure it would work. IÂm going to try an alcohol solution but if that doesnÂt work IÂve got a nice bottle of "kill everything that moves and some things that donÂt" on standby. Might even get rid of those darn squirrels...smug little buggers. :) Bromeliads donÂt do well with oil based pesticides, correct? I passed up a "safe" pesticide for fruit baring plants that said not to use on oil sensitive plants....See MoreCan pest control get rid of mice?
Comments (11)In my experience, if you live in an area where there are mice, there is a certain amount of work required periodically to keep them under control. Some years we have only a few outside, other years there are lots. We've only seen one mouse in the house, and that was over twenty years ago. I use a combination of strategies to keep the population under control. Tin Cats, a trapping box with doors that mice can enter but not leave, are placed at several spots along the base of the house. You only need to bait these boxes once. I use a piece of apple core, or a smear of peanut butter. Mice enter and die, and their friends keep coming in. Mice are cannibals, so the later arriving mice eliminate the remains of the earlier ones. Every few days or weeks, depending on the pest pressure, I empty the remains, which are usually just some skulls. For remote outbuildings, I find Just One Bite baits to be amazingly effective. Some years I have no activity on any of the packets I place, other years I need to replace the packets pretty often. This bait is less than a dollar a package on Amazon, and lasts until consumed. Note that it is not for use around the house, as the active ingredient is not so labeled. Once or twice a year, I put out a bunch of snap mouse traps at suspect locations both as a control measure, and as a survey of where I might have a problem. I only leave them out for a few days, and then use an appropriate other control strategy. Don't get discouraged by mice; it takes some work, but control is possible. Renais...See MoreJaycee
7 years agoDave
7 years agoewwmayo
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoAndrew t
7 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
7 years agoDave
7 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
7 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
7 years agoDave
7 years agolmontestella
7 years agoAndrew t
7 years ago
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