Help! Where would you put lighting?
Ok here's my layout along with my elevations. So my question is where and what kinds of lights would you put where?
I will definitely get some sort of mission/arts and crafts style chandy over the dining table. I am planning on putting one or two cans under the area where the buffet will be and yes, under the cabinets will have led's. The inside of the glass cabinets will also be lit.
My question is what do I do with the rest of the kitchen and where?
Comments (14)
cpartist
7 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (18)niteshadepromises - Now that I see your roof plan, I remember your lot and its design issues from when you first posted about it months ago. A VERY difficult space to work with indeed. Having looked at your roof plan, I agree that your architect DID provide a drainage route for every point on the roof. The spot that I was originally worried about (marked with a red X below) is intended to drain toward the front of the house and fall off the roof right where that ladder is leaned up against the house in the very last picture you posted. So that's good but... I still see two problems, one with the roof as designed and one with the roof as it was actually built: First, EVERY portion of the roof that I've shaded in green on the drawing above is ALSO designed to drain at exactly the same spot! Without exact dimensions, I can't calculate the total roof area that will drain toward that approximately 2 ft wide edge of the roof. But, assuming that the secondary bathroom that is visible thru the roof plan is approximately 40 sq ft, I would guesstimate that the sections of roof that are shaded green cover about 1000 sq ft of floor space. Did your architect discuss with you or have you thought about what having that much roof drain to one location is going to mean when it rains? The national weather service describes any rain up to 0.3 inches/hour as merely a moderate rain. Anything over 0.3 inches per hour is considered heavy. And if you search the internet, you will find plenty of stories about thunderstorms dropping 4 and 5 inches of rain in an hour and you'll even find some stories about even heavier amounts of rain falling in an hour. Obviously then, it is probably not terribly unusual for a heavy rain to drop 0.5 to 1 inches of rain in an hour. 1/2 inch of rain falling on 1000 sq ft in one hour would be over 300 gallons of water that has to drain in one hour. 1 inch would be over 600 gallons and so on. Let's say you get a storm that drops 0.5 inch of rain over a one hour period. That means you are going to have 300 gallons of rainwater pouring off of your roof at that one narrow roof edge in a single hour. 300 gallons per hour is 5 gallons per minute. That's twice the flow rate of a shower head. And it's going to be coming down as a sheet of water against that very short section of rain guttering. And, what if you get a cloudburst that drops that same 1/2 inch of rain in a 15 minute period? It happens....a lot! (I live in central Texas and we don't get that much rain...barely 30 inches a year...but just a couple of days ago we got 3/4 of an inch of rain in a 20 minute period followed by another half inch in less than an hour a little later the same day. And I've seen worse storms.) If you get 1/2 inch of rain in a 15 minute period, for that 15 minute period, water is going to be pouring off your roof at that one spot at a rate of 20 gallons per minute!!!! Will that short section of gutter be able to channel that much water that fast? Remember too that water weighs 8 lbs per gallon so 20 gallons weighs 160 lbs. I would be surprised if that much water did not simply tear the gutters lose completely. And, if the rain either overflows your gutters (or tears them loose completely) all of that water is going to be pouring down from a height of about 10 feet and hitting the ground just a few feet from your front door. Imagine the size of the splash it is likely to make... and the hole that the falling rain is going to dig. With your door so close, it is going get covered with mud. And there is no way you would be able to open the door during a heavy rainstorm without water splashing into the house. And that is the problem I see with the roof "as it was originally designed." Problem number 2 is that the original roof design has obviously been altered by the addition of that cupola/turret that is not shown on the original roof plan. (I'm actually curious as to exactly how the cupola is supported but that is a different issue entirely.) And, did your architect also sign off on the addition of the cupola to the roof? Anyway, here's the issue: While it is hard to tell from the pictures just how big the cupola is, I'm guessing that it is located directly over the circular staircase and therefore has the same diameter as the staircase. I'm guessing that because, as a design feature, having the cupola smaller than the staircase simply would not look terribly good. If I'm right about the size and location of the cupola, then from the roof diagram, it looks like the staircase (and thus the cupola) sits where I've shown the yellow circle in the diagram below. Notice how the yellow circle cuts off the red drainage line I had before. In fact, all rain draining from the entire area I've reshaded to purple is going to be at least partially blocked by the cupola. It will have to be diverted into that narrow space between the edge of the cupola and the edge of the roof that is directly to the left of the cupola on the diagram. The purple section looks to cover about 200 sq feet. A half inch of rain in an hour falling on a 200 sq ft area would add up to t0 about 60 gallons of water. That 60 gallons is going to have between the edge of the cupola and that roof immediately to the left. 60 gallons is the equivalent of a bathtub full of water. Worse, if anything at all (a few twigs and leaves or an old bird's nest) should happen to fall on the roof and get washed by a light rain down towards that narrow V, it is likely to become lodged in the V and basically create a dam to hold water back. Then you're going to have rain water collecting up against the back side of the cupola until it gets deep enough to find an alternate route down. And, when the rain ends, some water is going to remain pooled in that V. I really hate to say it but I foresee significant roof problems ahead. I hope I'm wrong but......See Morewhat style of light would you put here?
Comments (0)I could use some advice on what type of lighting to use in our entry way and the tiny hall leading to the kitchen. I need help with kitchen lighting too! We are presently getting quotes for new cabinets, pendant lighting over the peninsula etc. I've learned a lot here on Houzz, but lighting still vexes me. Should all the lighting fixtures on a main floor be in the same finish? All answers welcome if you have a sec. Thanks and have a great day!...See MoreWhere would you put recessed lights in this kitchen plan?
Comments (1)One over the sink, range, counter next to the frig and two over the peninsula. Locate them in front of where you'll stand so that your body and head don't create a shadow on your work. All leds on dimmers. You can add undercabinet leds. 450 footcandles at the counter is good for this task lighting. One or two in the center as ambient lighting. You can also go another over the table area if you like recessed....See MoreWould you put these two lights in the same space?
Comments (5)Even though they are different shapes, all light fixtures look cohesive because of material and color. good choices....See Morecpartist
7 years agocpartist
7 years ago
Chance
7 years agoIf I were wiring your kitchen I would shoot for a layout like this.
The blue dots would be cans that are targeted at you work surfaces. They would be on a dimmer as mentioned by others earlier.The two over the island could just be pendants as will if you want. Just try and pick pendants that can accept a bright enough bulb to get several hundred lumens.It would also work to have a island fixture centered. I'm assuming that's what you mean by an elongated light. Like this
The problem that I see is it might compete visually with the table chandelier that you could put there. The cans or pendants would be less in the smallish space you have.
The buffet table could also have a couple of cans over it or you could put some sconces on wall behind it to frame a piece of art.The fact that you have 10' ceilings should give the cans plenty of room for the light to spread out and have a bright kitchen.
Not all electricians have no clue about lighting. Just saying.cpartist thanked Chancecpartist
7 years agoChance
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoYou could change around the island a little bit. You can have both some cans and pendants on the island, I would still do at least 2 cans maybe 3 if you really want it bright. This also depends on the size of cans that you want. If you go with 6" you can get a higher lumen output easier vs a 4". Most trims get a little more lumen output from a 6" vs 4". If you want it bright I would suggest you request a 900ish lumen LED trim vs the 600ish due to your 10 foot ceilings.
I might arrange it like this. Blue dots are cans. Green are pendants. Purple are accent cans/directional cans maybe. Orange is a chandelier above the table.
I might also center a can out in front of our ovens if they don't have internal lights. Also I'm assuming your hood has lights in it as well.
You could also eliminate the purple cans above the buffet and do a simple ceiling light centered it the walkway there but I don't think I would.
If you went with a 4 bulb light that you linked or similar I would probably just use that alone above the island. You can get a great deal of light out of a light like that but is even more directional than can so it is really bright on you counters but standing there you don't feel like it's bright.
At the end of the day(literally haha) the amount of windows is pointless because the sun goes down and we still want the kitchen to be fully functional. You would actually be surprised how much light you actually get from a north facing window. I could put a light meter in there and you have 60+ lumens at the work surface but it just feels darker.
I would have all the kitchen cans tied together on a swicth/3-way system. The pendants by themselves/3-way, the chandelier alone/3-way, and the buffet table lighting on a single switch by the table. Your layout is actually going to make switch placement a pain just do to lack of wall surface.
Forgot to mention. If you went with pendants in this setup you could start with a dimmer bulb and more focus on the aesthetics of the light instead of the function.
prepmom
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
Buehl