Need help buying a new 30" gas range (Bluestar vs Tecnogas)
8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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Bluestar 30' Gas RNB v. Wolf 30' Gas R304
Comments (5)Years ago I cooked on a Wolf open burner (converted to LP) and it was fine. Good even heat distribution. Very much like the old restaurant ranges I was use to. This was back in the mid/late 90s so Wolf has likely changed their design since then. Back then they were still the up and coming brand and their ranges had a bit of a utilitarian restaurant look. I love the Bluestar. Best cooking machine you can get for the home. The open star burner is wonderful. Comparing the Wolf from the mid '90s and the BS, BS wins hands down. Nothing really wrong with the Wolf (as long as it's an open burner) and if I never tried the BS, I'd probably be happy with it. Now that I have, there's no going back. With regard to reliability... You'll here horror stories about every brand. Bluestar is no exception. I think BS went through some growning pains about a year or so ago but I think things are getting better. The thing I like about their design is that it's completely accessible. I pop the top and the plumbing, electronics, and burners are all easily reachable. There's no secret panel that you have to use the magic screw driver to open. The reason I say this is that I'm confident if the ignitors or the spark module ever fails (which is the most likely thing to fail since everything else is just plumbing), I'm sure I can buy the parts and replace them myself....See MoreLatest on Bluestar 30" RCS Gas Range Over Door Temp
Comments (23)FINAL VERDICT ON HOT DOOR ISSUE: This is a great product with an unfortunate, and very real, design flaw - through all of the models, not just this one. The hot door issue is real, and it is a risk you should be aware of before purchasing. If you have young children, toddlers or infants - I don't see how you can buy a BlueStar stove in good conscience - despite them being beautiful cooking units. I just returned from an appliance showroom where we ran the BlueStar (two models, RPB & RNB) at 500F for 30 minutes. The door was warm to the touch. The knobs were hot - too hot for comfort. The kickplate (louvered) and the driptray edge were straight up scalding. Had I kept my hand on the kickplate or drip tray for more than a half-second, I would have been badly burned. The price of these units is immaterial to this discussion. These ranges get unsafely hot for use in a family home. For singles, adults without kids, or families with grown kids - the unit would do nicely. Frankly I am surprised these have passed the appropriate tests to be sold on the Canadian market....See More30" Wolf GR304 vs 30" BlueStar RCS vs 30" BlueStar RNB
Comments (6)What is a "local safety officer"? What do you mean "a bunch of back and forth" with your "local safety officer and Wolf"? What prompted you to use your CO meter to test the levels? They are employed by our BC safety Authority who are the regulators for all regulated work, gas and electrical and such. As a licensed gas fitter I hold my ticket through them and they are the final say when it comes to appliance safety. Permits and approvals for equipment go through them. I chatted at length with him about the stove and he did agree we can’t do anything because it meets ANSI standards being below 800ppm, but he did say he wouldn’t have it in his house. His advice to me was if Wolf won’t do anything to then adjust the burner input by under firing the appliance to bring the CO back inline. I went to Wolf with this information and they said ‘based on your requirements I don’t think Wolf products will be right for you, would you consider a buy back’. Checking CO is very common here in Canada especially when commissioning an appliance. I didn’t mention the CO alarm going off because it never went off, however it did show peak levels in the 15-19ppm range after cooking for a short period of time. Enough to make me concerned with a pregnant wife and 2 yr old. This is what will happen if you in a room where the CO levels are 800 ppm. The ANSI standards are referring to the CO levels in the air coming out of the range vent. 800 ppm air coming out of the vent does not translate to a room concentration of 800 ppm. Especially if you have your ventilation on. Now, if you were getting 250-300 ppm where the cook was standing, that indicates a concentration of way more than 800 ppm out of the vent, and thus a violation of ANSI standards. Either way, those readings were way too high and Wolf's response was poor. Yes, I agree, somewhat. The stove should never be operating at the ANSI levels, your house would build up to a dangerous level of CO over time ie. When cooking a turkey for hours. Our utility will actually shut down any gas range over 540ppm during normal operation. Also they shutdown any other appliance if its over 250ppm while operating. I agree we need ANSI standards but as new homes get built tighter and with less makeup air having a cooking appliance pumping 800ppm at the vent/flue is insane. Consider this regulation was put in place in 1926, buildings have changed considerably since then. So, what happened when you tried adjusting it? Was 250-300 ppm the lowest it would go? That would surprise me, I have adjusted several gas ranges and have usually been able to get them down to 30-40 ppm from as high as 500 ppm. I knew this question would pop up, but yes I went through the full range of what is reasonable on a brand new appliance. Below is what I went through, to try and reduce the CO: Tested inlet pressure, adjusted within 1”wc of manifold pressure. ‘Wolf recommends having inlet pressure within 1” for proper operation’ – no change Checked flip top regulator and it was set to natural gas Checked manifold pressure on stove it was at 5”wc Verified orifice was correct as per spec sheet supplied by Wolf Adjusted air shutter, no change was actually higher and this was the lowest I was able to get the stove to run at CO tests were done after 10-15 minutes of operation and the burners were warm Clocked meter to verify burner input is correct Verified no blockage in burner tube Verified all secondary air ports were free and clear House is still very drafty, so not a lack of air within the house The only thing I never did was under fire it, as I didn't want to go down that road on a brand new piece of equipment. Wolf blew me away with their service and willingness to make a customer happy. From a cooking standpoint however, it will be Bluestar for us....See More36in gas range vs 30in gas range.
Comments (6)Without knowing anything about you and your family's needs, it's difficult to say whether you should get a 30" or a 36" range. How many burners do you regularly use? How many do you need when you entertain (if you do) and for holiday dinners? If 4 won't cut it, get a 36" range. Your kitchen is large enough to accommodate a 30" wall oven, too. Personally, I'd prefer to use the smaller oven most of the time so that I'm not working over a hot oven while cooking on the range. Another option would be to do a 36" cook top, a 30" wall oven and a 30" speed oven (MW combo, multi-function). Separate appliances cost more but, as DrB477 pointed out, 36" ranges are spendy. You didn't ask for lay-out advice but your lay-out doesn't make the best use of your kitchen's footprint. Your fridge and range are crowded together and your island's angled shape puts the sink farther away from perimeter counters than recommended, plus it provides limited counter space. Given the opportunity to take advantage of your misfortune (my sympathies), it seems a shame not to consider addressing these issues at the same time. Are you on a slab? Even if you are, can you move plumbing at all? If so, here's one possibility that relieves appliance crowding and gives you a larger island with more counter on each side of the sink plus a lot more room to work on each side of the range, and better work aisle widths. Do you have pantry space somewhere? Or are you doing pantry cabinets? There's room to add them to the above plan, either between wall oven/MW and fridge, creating a "wall of tall" or at one end or the other of the range run. Good luck with your rebuild! PS. If your fridge is a standard depth fridge, you may want to allow a wider aisle between fridge run and island. Or you could investigate recessing the fridge into the stud space a few inches....See MoreRelated Professionals
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