Hi kmc214 I was looking for edges myself and I found this helpful site You can see the samples and also see the angles in 3D under "design tools". Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: marble.com

IMHO - the front leading edge of any countertop will be the "icing on the cake" if the edge detail "works" with the "look" that you are trtying to project. In a very formal look - an ogee or top bevel will work well - a bullnose or simple round over has a more relaxed "feel" and helps to soften the appearance of the stone assembly. We do all kinds of edge details - we even have a "rope" edge: and we also do a River Washed Chiseled Edge: There's all kinds of edge details that a guy can do - it's just limited to one's imagination and the budget of the customer!! kevin

Sorry, I wasn't crystal clear- wrote before my first cup of coffee. For the greenhouse windows, we are getting granite window sills/stools. My question is, as Casey and tkbalt were able to surmise, should the granite window sills in kitchen match the granite edge of the counter or the wood edge of all the 'other' windows in the house. So far, one each! :>) pcjs- yes, it is very tricky doing the return edges on those wooden stools, and really no one will ever see them unless they press their nose up against the outside wall- but we know they're there- and they sure are pretty!

Ichabod, we're in the desert southwest, but I probably should have expanded on that comment! Our annual average rainfall here is under 10". Snow does happen but is not common. Ice dams are not a problem here, for example, so local code does not require ice and water shield at the eaves, either. We recently had a wet 6" snow but that is fairly remarkable for us, down here in the southern part of New Mexico. Also to you and tlbean2004, thanks for your thoughts on the metal flashing. We may request metal valley flashings, with ice and water underneath. Metal flashings got the roof through 17 years with no problems, so I'm not sure why to abandon them now...unless the technology of modern underlayments has rendered metal valley flashings obsolete. I thought that was what the roofer was implying, and we weren't sure if that was correct. I'll admit I am also a bit more worried about this roof than I would be if it was not such a low pitch. So you folks are a big help. klem1, thanks for your explanation. Nope, no interest here in removing the 2x2 trim to try to treat the rafter tail end grain (DH would leave me if I suggested that) so it looks like the consensus is to keep a very wide metal flashing. I guess it will be less distracting when painted to match the wood. Our house was built in 1965 and I sure don't want to make uninformed decisions that lead to damage...all for the sake of looks. (As much as I dislike the look of the big drip edge.) I guess a smaller drip edge and rotted wood would not be very pretty, either. I need to figure out which ice and water shield product will work in our hot temperatures, if we want it under the metal valley flashing. One bid specifies GAF Weatherwatch (but the contractor isn't local.) I don't know how heat resistant that product is. I know Grace Ice and Water has the best reputation, but I was surprised to see the Grace website says that only their most expensive product, Grace Ultra, should be used in the desert southwest: Grace IWS Contractor's Guide So if the esteemed Grace Ice & Water Shield (regular product) will not stand up to desert southwest heat, I wonder how any of the (much less expensive) GAF ice and shield products would work. There are a few scary stories in some roofing forums about "bitumen bleed" when ice and shield products are used in higher temps than recommended. (Roofing is not for sissies, have you noticed?)