As I recall, in the post where I suggested mounting a laminated glass lite to the interior of the exisiting windows (as mentioned above), the homeowner was very specific in that they were only interested in blocking as much unwanted sound as they could through those windows and not worried about possible aesthetic considerations. Firecodes are certainly important and must be considered whenever modifying a window or a door in a home. However, any interior (or exterior) storm window is going to affect egress through a window - whether the glass is laminated or not is a secondary issue that must also be seriously considered. Soundproof windows in essense installs a laminated lite (or lites - in an IG configuration) to an exisiting window thus increasing the sound blocking capabilities of the window. That about covers it. They get excellent STC numbers for two reasons - first, the laminated lite has significantly better sound blocking ability than does non-laminated glass - and second, the introduce an airspace between the exisiting window and the laminated "interior storm" window which also helps to significantly reduce unwanted sound. A homeowner can do much the same thing, and achieve the same results at much less cost, by installing a sheet of laminated glass inside of an existing window...other considerations as mentioned in this and previous posts. Also, an IG unit manufactured with two lites of 1/4" glass and with a 1" airspace has an STC of 37 while a single 1/2" laminated lite, also made with 1/4" glass and a .030PVB interlayer, has a STC of 38. However, I personally don't care much for STC (as I have mentioned in previous posts), much preferring OITC - Outside Inside Transmission Class. In the case of a 1/4" / 1" air / 1/4" IG, the OITC is 30 while the OITC for the 1/2" (overall) laminated lite is 34. A laminated lite with 1/8" glass /.030PVB / 1/8" glass has an STC of 35 and an OITC of 31 - less effective than 1/4" glass and 1" airspace when comparing to STC number and more effective when comparing OITC numbers.

It helps a little to add insulation to interior partitions where there are no doors nearby. It is especially effective where there are a lot of electrical outlets (avoid back to back outlets in the same stud bay). For greater sound separation you could add a second layer of drywall to one side of certain walls. In a one story house there is often a sound path over the partitions through an attic space. Where sound separation is important it might be worthwhile to carry the partition to the roof deck. Even the best sound attenuation systems can be defeated by sound leaks caused by ducts, doors, outlets, attics and omission of caulking at the base of walls.

awm, thank you! Our house isn't Architectually Important or anything, but I really love it. And I totally agree about split-levels. They get a bad rap, but when they're done right, they're very interesting. I'm so thankful that the previous owners did such a nice job on the addition - it really works with the flow of the house in a very seamless way. Although the cosmetic details aren't my thing, the overall flow really enhances the house. So it sounds like the consensus is to not do flagstone in the breakfast room, and to use the same flooring in the LR/DR, kitchen, entry and breakfast room - perhaps with the exception of a stone area in the entry. Any votes for trying to recreate the original flooring in the kitchen and entry - a mosaic tile? These are the original tiles that I've dug out from under the edges of the existing flooring. (yes, I go on "fact-finding" missions in my own house. I think of it as domestic archaeology!): To be clear - I wouldn't do the same colors - I'd use a mosaic tile but in a different colorway. I'm pretty sure I don't want to do this, but the purist in me thinks it could be interesting. Thoughts? Too weird? Too impractical?

If you already have a double pane door, the problem may not be the door. Before going into expense of adding another layer of drywall to the walls and ceiling and replacing the door, I would check other things. Like bathroom exhaust fan ducting...is it insulated? HVAC ducts. Plumbing vents. Gaskets on all the exterior wall switches & receptacles as well as ceiling lights. Recessed light cans? Pull a piece of door/ window trim and check that the space between the jamb and framing is insulated.