New Kitchen Cabinets not stained or sealed well... What to do???
rhondanielsen
7 years ago
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rhondanielsen
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Bad stain job on Soft Maple custom kitchen cabinets. What to do?
Comments (2)I don't know that asking them about conditioner is the right question because that doesn't exactly solve all problems with staining soft woods. Everyones eye will see it differently. It's really the same thing with color. Not every piece of wood is going to stain up the same shade. Obviously some companies will go to great lengths to please their customers and others won't. Post a picture....See MoreStaining Darker - New Kitchen Cabinets
Comments (5)Thanks all. Handymac, I really appreciated the detail you provided. Unfortunately, it wasn't by any means an easy solution to my issue, so I've been mulling over. My thought process is to leave the cabinet frame intact, remove most of the external pieces ourselves (panels, trim work, doors, hinges, and drawer fronts), do whatever initial prepwork we can, and take them to a cabinetry shop/paint store to be sprayed and then protected with some finish. Then, we'll re-finish the frame in place somehow. The posts are going to be a pain. DH built a very sturdy steel frame to support the island overhang and those posts aren't going anywhere. Bobsmyuncle/brickeyee, the idea of a glaze might work very well. Can anyone suggest what color to use, to move from the current reddish tones, to more of a gray? We do have pieces with which we can experiment. I contacted the MFR and the current topcoat is a catalyzed conversion varnish. Is this the same as a post-catalyzed varnish? Thanks -- oldbat2be...See MoreCan I stain butcher block? How do I seal?
Comments (8)The properties of warping of wood have been thoroughly studied and understood scientifically. Casual observations relating warping to finish (or lack thereof) are faulty. My mother had a butcherblock portion of counter for over 30 years, never oiled or finished anywhere, that never warped. I've had boards that warped and others that didn't, some finished, some unfinished, some partly finished. It's not the finish. Wood tabletops, countertops, decks, etc. are exposed to more water on the top than the bottom, causing the top to swell and try to expand. But the wood's thickness remains stable and prevents this. The cells of wood on the top of the board become compressed from their original cylindrical shape (like a soda straw) into an oval shape. As it dries out, the wood cells do not fully regain their original shape, so the top shrinks, pulling the board concave. This is called "compression shrinkage." Therefore, finishing the bottom of a tabletop or countertop will not prevent warping. Warping will always be cupping of the top due to swelling from wetness of the top and subsequent compression shrinkage. If lack of finish on the bottom caused warping, you would see the tabletop bow, not cup -- but this never happens. Or think about it another way: what liquid is going to soak into the bottom of your installed butcherblock counter, that a finish is going to block? It's not going to happen. And no finish blocks water vapor (from humidity in the air), only slows it a little bit, so this would make no difference in protection either. So if you want a tabletop or countertop not to cup over time, there are two things to consider. The most important factor is the quality of wood making up the butcherblock: the size and shape of the wood cells, their density, how the wood was cut in relation to the growth rings, and how it was dried. Butcherblock made up of dense, old-growth, quartersawn boards slowly air dried is going to hold its shape (even when totally unfinished), while strips of young, low-density, plainsawn boards are going to warp easily. Second, keep the top as dry as possible. Don't let liquids soak into it, or use a water-resistant film finish if you expect liquid exposure. It's not the finish on the bottom, it's how dry you can keep the top, that helps prevent cupping....See MoreStain or Seal new deck?
Comments (5)Hi. I"m the OP. We used Kayu mahogany, which was about half the price of Ipe. It hasn't been in a full year yet, but so far very pleased. It was actually left untreated from Jan-May because of the timing of the house being finished and then, you know, 2020. We stained it in May and, after much research, used TWP stain. It is south facing and has held up well through the summer. Winter hasn't hit hard here yet, but we've had one snowstorm, many rainstorms, and the pollen and leaves from the Oak next too it, and so far we are very pleased. We have had many compliments on it. Good luck in Minnesota!...See Morerhondanielsen
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