New Kitchen Cabinets not stained or sealed well... What to do???
8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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Comments (4)I am in almost the same boat- I built a cedar deck last year and used Cabot's SPF-24. It failed miserably and I have just finished stripping all of the finish and sanding. It's almost ready for stain, but I'm concerned the moisture level in the wood will be too high and the temp too cool. I'm in Albany, NY, so winter is knocking on our door. I'm planning to use ReadySeal, it's on a UPS truck headed to my house right now. I did LOTS of looking on this site and others- Ken at pressurepros was helpful in selecting the product....See MoreStaining Darker - New Kitchen Cabinets
Comments (5)Thanks all. Handymac, I really appreciated the detail you provided. Unfortunately, it wasn't by any means an easy solution to my issue, so I've been mulling over. My thought process is to leave the cabinet frame intact, remove most of the external pieces ourselves (panels, trim work, doors, hinges, and drawer fronts), do whatever initial prepwork we can, and take them to a cabinetry shop/paint store to be sprayed and then protected with some finish. Then, we'll re-finish the frame in place somehow. The posts are going to be a pain. DH built a very sturdy steel frame to support the island overhang and those posts aren't going anywhere. Bobsmyuncle/brickeyee, the idea of a glaze might work very well. Can anyone suggest what color to use, to move from the current reddish tones, to more of a gray? We do have pieces with which we can experiment. I contacted the MFR and the current topcoat is a catalyzed conversion varnish. Is this the same as a post-catalyzed varnish? Thanks -- oldbat2be...See MoreCan I stain butcher block? How do I seal?
Comments (8)The properties of warping of wood have been thoroughly studied and understood scientifically. Casual observations relating warping to finish (or lack thereof) are faulty. My mother had a butcherblock portion of counter for over 30 years, never oiled or finished anywhere, that never warped. I've had boards that warped and others that didn't, some finished, some unfinished, some partly finished. It's not the finish. Wood tabletops, countertops, decks, etc. are exposed to more water on the top than the bottom, causing the top to swell and try to expand. But the wood's thickness remains stable and prevents this. The cells of wood on the top of the board become compressed from their original cylindrical shape (like a soda straw) into an oval shape. As it dries out, the wood cells do not fully regain their original shape, so the top shrinks, pulling the board concave. This is called "compression shrinkage." Therefore, finishing the bottom of a tabletop or countertop will not prevent warping. Warping will always be cupping of the top due to swelling from wetness of the top and subsequent compression shrinkage. If lack of finish on the bottom caused warping, you would see the tabletop bow, not cup -- but this never happens. Or think about it another way: what liquid is going to soak into the bottom of your installed butcherblock counter, that a finish is going to block? It's not going to happen. And no finish blocks water vapor (from humidity in the air), only slows it a little bit, so this would make no difference in protection either. So if you want a tabletop or countertop not to cup over time, there are two things to consider. The most important factor is the quality of wood making up the butcherblock: the size and shape of the wood cells, their density, how the wood was cut in relation to the growth rings, and how it was dried. Butcherblock made up of dense, old-growth, quartersawn boards slowly air dried is going to hold its shape (even when totally unfinished), while strips of young, low-density, plainsawn boards are going to warp easily. Second, keep the top as dry as possible. Don't let liquids soak into it, or use a water-resistant film finish if you expect liquid exposure. It's not the finish on the bottom, it's how dry you can keep the top, that helps prevent cupping....See MoreWill painted cabinets hold up as well as natural or stained wood?
Comments (4)Msbrandy, I can certainly relate to your dilemma. My prior home had walnut stained cabinets with white counters which I enjoyed for 35 years. The wood was refinished twice and looked great the day the house was sold. The kitchen in my current home had a complete remodel two years ago. I chose white factory painted cabinets this time for two reasons. Like you, there are no windows in my kitchen although it faces a wall of windows because of the open concept. I really felt the need to lighten the space. The second reason is purely emotional, I was ready for a change from the dark wood. When it's time to refurbish, it should help that the doors are full overlay so they can be spray painted in a professional paint booth. As I recall, stripping and refinishing natural wood cabinets, was a major ordeal as well. Anyway, cherry or painted would be beautiful. Wishing you the best with your remodel....See MoreRelated Professionals
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