The control board probably isn't the problem. The most common cause of a no-heat failure after running self-clean is a blown thermal fuse. Can be confirmed by testing the thermal fuse for continuity. Replacement is Part Number WP9759242. Available from several online sources. One source I use that typically has the lowest prices lists it for $39.

BTW, HomeChef59, the control board is apparently available, listed as in-stock at some sources, out-of-stock delayed delivery at others. FixYourBoard.com and CoreCentricSolutions.com list handle it for repair. FixYourBoard is $60 higher than CoreCentric but has a 2-yr warranty. Both are 1/2 cost or less than the listed price for a new board.

I haven't used Fixyourboard but I have used Core Centric and they have a very fast turn around time. Generally with-in 24 hours of receiving the board it is on it's way back to you.

I thought it might be the Thermal Fuse also, but can't be sure until I check it.

I have the Kitchen Aid Self Clean Service Bulletin 4317445B which states to replace the Thermal Fuse and replace the blower assembly with part number W10176670.

Is there a document out there that states how to complete these repairs. I'm relatively adept/handy and am willing to order the parts and take a shot at repairing this thing myself.

I guess the first order of business is trying to get the "built-in" oven out of its "built-in" slot! Any recommendations are welcome as I have never done this and it is not self evident at a glance.

Thx,

Jeff

Never mind...found the original installation manual. Looks simple and straight forward.

Look at Whirlpool or KitchenAid web sites for installation instructions (may or may not be available for an older model), or check the documentation if you still have it. Generally there are screws along the trim when the door is opened that anchor it to the cabinetry, then the whole thing slides out of the cavity. Expect it to be heavy. The doors may be removable to facilitate handling it but sometimes there are lock levers and such at the hinges that have to be set a certain way and may not be apparent at first glance. Check the user instruction manual. Shut off the circuit breakers! It should be hard-wired to a junction box at back of the cavity. May not be necessary to disconnect the wiring if it's long enough to set the unit in front of the cavity securely on a small table or some such. Check parts diagrams online for location of the thermal fuse and other components, which should also help in how to disassemble for access.

I never had a problem but years ago I read thru all the threads here on the fuse issue. It was my impression that the thermal fuse shut the unit completely down; that is, no lights or indications of power anywhere. If that is correct and if the op still has an active display, then it wouldn't be the fuse. BTW, I believe that the fuse is on the back so the oven must be completely removed for replacement.

When they replaced my control unit, they only needed to slide the ovens out a bit to get to it. Removing the ovens entirely from the cabinet wasn't necessary. Of course, every unit will be different.

UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED! I purchased the items described in Service Bulletin 4317445B: WP9759242 Thermal Fuse ($14.95) and WPW10176670 Updated (more powerful) Fan ($101.59). Turned off the oven power breaker, pulled the oven out of its 'cubby' hole, took off the oven panels, installed fan and fuse, put everything back together, placed the oven back in its 'cubby' hole. turned the power back on and wallah...everything worked great. The whole process took less than an hour. I want to thank everyone for their input.

I have a KitchenAid self cleaning single built in oven model #KOST100ESS. I just self cleaned it for the first time (it is a few days over one year old) and it died in the middle of the self clean cycle! Suddenly the display went blank and the door was stuck in locked position. We checked power and there is power to the oven, so it seems to be the oven itself. So upset -- the first time we self cleaned it!

Call KitchenAid. If the phone rep responds with "we're not aware of any ongoing problems," don't be snipey or rude but tell him/her that now you do because I've told you about my problem, and that an online Google search for "kitchenaid oven self cleaning problem" brings up 90,300 results dating back many years.

You probably fried the mother board. Too much heat in a cabinet results in melted electronics or wiring. Self-clean is a marketing ripoff. The motherboard can be repaired, if a new one is not available. There are services that will do it if you mail the removed board to them.

Yes, I am reading more and more about this. I just don't understand how they can market it as a self cleaning oven when this happens so often.

Well now, hold on homechef: yes a mother board can be damaged, but almost always the protective thermal fuse is what fails and gives your specific result. I suppose that KA could have changed designs recently (with so many previous issues), but at least in the older models, the fuse is on the back of the unit so the whole oven must be slid out to reach it. The fuse used to cost ~$50, but I think I read a couple posts (or searched prices myself) where the cost was under $20. I was never convinced that I would be ordering the right one, or I would have got one just in case of a failure.

Yes, from Googling the symptoms I have it looks like the fuse rather than the board. But there is no way that we could take out the oven ourselves to replace it, so it is still a service call. I just don't understand why they manufacture the ovens in a way that this happens so often. And my oven is new, first time self cleaning it.

Out of curiosity, how long did you allow the oven to self-clean? I think the default was 3.5 - 4 hours which really seems excessive to me. We set ours to 1.5 hours and it worked well for a number of years but finally did have the thermal fuse blow. Replacement was very easy.

The choices are 3.5, 4.5 (default) or 5.5 hours. I left it on the default. I'd say it died around 2.5 into the cycle.

Thought I update as to what happened in my case. As I mentioned above, the unit was only 9 days out of warranty. I had purchased this from Abt which is a huge appliance distributor here in the Chicago area. I called them for service. Tech came out, quickly diagnosed it as the thermal fuse which failed. I talked to him a little and he told me that they recommend never self cleaning these units. I pushed a little on the subject and he told me that if I call Abt and complain odds are they'll do something about it, maybe offering to put the service charge cost towards an extended warranty. He ordered the part and another tech came out and installed it later. He also told me that they recommend not to self clean these units (go KitchenAid!). When I had the total charge, I called Abt, told them the whole story, etc. They called me back and told me that they'd gotten KitchenAid to agree to cover the cost of the repair since it was just shortly past warranty. I asked them to allow me to purchase an extended warranty (since I know I'll need to self-clean this oven again) and they agreed. Cost of the extended warranty was a little more than the original cost of the repair. I'm good with their solution, just very annoyed with KitchenAid for selling these things as self-cleaning while doing so is so problematic.

"... they recommend never self cleaning these units."

I would never accept that as a solution. Any oven that is equipped as a self-cleaner must reasonably function correctly for the feature to be used, repeatedly without failure.

First of all, I absolutely disagree with anyone who says "don't self clean" - the vast majority of people self clean without any issues.

I would, however, advise not self cleaning right before a time when you really need to use the oven and you won't be able to get a repair tech in for a while - for example, the day before Thanksgiving. It's not that self clean necessarily causes problems - but if it's on the verge of failing anyway, self clean will push it over the edge.

Now, as for KitchenAid/Whirlpool. They used to have frequent self clean issues before 2009, but since then they have fixed the problem with design changes and better cooling airflow.

Despite the problem being fixed, there are still isolated incidents of this happening, like with all manufacturers. Also, there are reasons that this can happen besides manufacturing defects or design flaws. One common problem I see these days is installers removing the protective cardboard cover on the bottom of the oven before putting it on the appliance dolly. Then, the ventilation duct at the bottom of the oven gets crushed. The oven gets installed, nobody notices, and everything appears to work fine at first. But once you get some serious heat, such as a self clean cycle, the oven will be unable to cool its internals properly and you will have issues.