Baseballmom, these washers are my personal preference to but, for their known quality, and performace. If you want a HE top loader, the Maytage is the best in my opinion. Its a super large capasity, not plastic lids, huge opening and yes the ones with internal heater are the 850 series for sure...maybe the 700 series, but not sure. LG is a grat brand too, none of my friends who have them, have any issues with them and they have had them for over 4 yrs. One thing to remember when you read wash performance on any of these HE machines is that many owners do not read the owners manual. They just use it and then complain of poor results. One "poster" on here admitted. "One day I will sit down and read the manual" Its not rocket science trust me. When people talk about mechanical failures brioon machines, it would help if they include a model number. The older bravos, cabrios, oasis has some issues, since then I beleive they have been worked out. Internal heaters are a big plus in a HE machine, of course some people will tell you it makes no differnce. Most Fl issues are operators induced problems, not the machines design.

kimberly42- try tweaking the leveling yourselves if you can get to the feet. it helped when we fiddled with our washer ourselves. aim for perfect level and perfect plumb while the machine is spinning a heavy wet load. remember to loosen the lock nuts, then tighten them up to the machine when you've done the best you can. oh, and other poster here had written a great post on leveling that advised watching the feet closely while the machine is spinning (lay down on the floor) and adjust any feet which seem to wobble.

We have 11 SQs in our business and love them! They recently discontinued the top two models of SQ with timer controls and replaced them with electronic controls. Some other changes are that they now fully fill without having to adjust the water level. They meet water use standards by offering an Eco cycle that uses a spray rinse. There is also a conventional fill the tub rinse on other cycles. My SQ(timer controls)has a spray rinse followed by a tub rinse for the first rinse. I am not sure if the new ones do that for the regular rinse. There also seems to be a third rinse available for those with allergies. We have severe allergies so I do a wash with single rinse and a second light wash with a little water softener to remove detergent and single rinse. I get one warm rinse that way. There is still a basic model available with timer controls.

Your Oxi product pictured is a powder, yes? As stated in responses above several years ago, the instruction is based on an assumption of liquid detergent and powder oxi ... which combined can form a chunky/goopy mixture that won't properly dissolve and flush out of the dispenser drawer or cup. Don't combine any liquids and powders together in a dispenser cup/reservoir that holds the dosage for the dispenser to be flushed with water. A frontloader detergent dispenser (and some toploaders with a drawer dispenser) typically has a reservoir cup or a dam piece that holds liquids from running out prematurely, until the incoming water flow overflows the compartment and flushes out the product, then (usually) a siphon tube drains the residual water. The cup or dam is removed for powders since they won't run out the back, the powder sits in the compartment until the water flow flushes it out (overflowing the cup or hold-back dam). A heavier goopy combination of liquid+powder sitting in the cup or blocked by the dam doesn't flush and/or dissolve readily. If you're using liquid detergent and powder oxi (or powder detergent and liquid oxi), then do not mix them together in your frontloader's dispenser. Liquid detergent and liquid oxi, or powder detergent and powder oxi (with the reservoir cup or hold-back dam removed) can be mixed together. If you're not sure, then follow the oxi directions and place liquid or powder detergent alone into the dispenser, and liquid or powder oxi directly into the drum.