You are already seeing that there is a rhythm to our weather. The trick is to plant the vegetables that will grow during each weather pattern. Here in central MS (our climate is very similar. My daughter lives in DFW), it goes kind of like this: In late March or early April (right after last frost date), plant the stuff that will heat check in mid summer: snap beans and tomatoes; and the long season heat lovers: butterbeans, peppers, and eggplants. And the short season heat lovers that will yield their space to something else in mid summer: cucumbers, summer squash, (Vine Borers make them a short season veg most years), and corn. As the snap beans and corn finish up (late June to early July), plant cowpeas, winter squash, and okra (this could have been planted earlier too). I also pull out cucumbers at this time and replant them, picklers this time. All of these thrive on the worst heat of summer. (with ample water). Oh, if you want a second crop of tomatoes, start your seeds by mid June. I usually leave the tomatoes in the ground through the worst of the heat, IF the plants look good. When it cools down in late summer, they will commence bearing again. If they look bad, I pull them out, add compost and fertilizer and plant fresh plants (no later than mid July) which will bear till frost. In mid July, I start seeds for collards, broccoli, caulifower, and cabbage in a place that has dappled shade. In late July, you can plant fresh snap beans. I like poles best for their flavor, and I think they do better in our heat too. In early to mid September, you can direct sow kale, mustard, and asian greens. In late September or early October, plant onions, carrots, lettuce, garlic, spinach, and set out your plants you started in July. I grow all my cool season plants under mulch and row covers, using my tomato cages as hoops. With the row covers, all these plants typically make it through the entire winter and we eat from them regularly throughout. There is an added bonus of growing this way. If you pick your greens, or cut the entire plant (do NOT pull them up by the roots) to harvest, there will be virtually no grit in them. The mulch and row covers keep dirt from splashing up on the leaves. It saves untold hours of cleaning greens inside. In February, I plant sugar snap peas. Some years, I get a harvest, and some years it gets hot too soon and I don't. On those years, I just plow the plants under the soil and figure their nitrogen fixing roots are a bonus to the soil.

I'd check to see if you have a county cooperative extension. They'll be able to tell you lots of info about the fruit, what varieties work best for your area and when the best time to set them is. They very well may have a website, too.

Invasive seems to be a discovery word and over used. If you tend to your yard or garden one would be so surprised by what beauty so-called invasive plants can be with just a little care. Plants normally can be trained to be a beautiful sight no matters what kind. I like to stay away from cactus and thorn type plants yet they are even trainable and beauties. I have a pasture behind my house full of native and non-native plants and it is interesting what you can gather to make your yard/garden gorgeous. Store bought can be more tragic and pricey even though there are some beautiful plants. I am in West Texas and plants not only survive to live but struggle due to the wild swings in winds, droughts and excessive temperature swings. So where you might live is more of a blessing than you might realize. Go on the wild side and enjoy your gardening efforts don't be afraid but love. Make Love not War!!

cjsm, thank you so much for the follow-up. I am hearing rather conflicting messages from different people though - my local nursery people told me to keep on watering, since this is a new tree and the root system is not well-developed yet. On the other hand, I hear what you are saying and the overwatering theory in clay soil (which I also have) definitely makes sense! I think I am going to stop watering it for a few days and see what happens. You know, it's hard when you see the leaves drooping in the strong afternoon sun and still not water it! At least it is getting cooler around here these days... BTW, cjsm, my tree was planted in a big planting hole on a slope, and I had plenty of cow manure and things amending the local clay soil, so I think I don't need to take it out to raise it more. I hope this does the trick! Thank you again for your info.