Trump isn't alone with his border wall idea - Norway is doing it too.
lana_roma
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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roarah
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
Warning, this isn't a hit and run
Comments (26)Cross referencing with your other thread, it seems your walkway is flared at both ends. From your drawing here I thought it wasn't. OK, so you aren't going to re-pour it, and I wouldn't either. If you were, I would not make that corner a right turn, but rather redraft the whole thing into a more gradually curvy swoosh reaching further down the driveway. You could leave the narrow bed by the garage wide enough for something, but to be honest, I think even with a redo I really would just pave to the wall - fill in the whole bed. Plants don't like growing in that situation anyway. With what you have I would tend towards a concept that works for me in my narrow beds: Basically a container gallery with plants at their feet. You could fill in the whole bed with pavers and put in a killer container gallery, or make it a container gallery among plants like mine. Your plants can be a single ground cover or a collection like hostas, hellebores, etc. In short, a bed like this only avoids being a plant line-up with a LOT of hardscape (can include wall art). If you really don't want containers, then study columnar conifers. Say, Taxus media 'Flushing,' Taxus baccata 'Golden Dwarf,' and the other usual suspects. Very structural stuff, including anything smaller you put in and can prune fairly flat (Cephalotaxus might be cool like that, has great foliage up close). But stay as far back from the door as you can with anything tall or wide. I would not do vines here. I would do structure. Structure is really missing from all the plants you have there too. Indeterminate blobs. You need big leaves. But I'm suggesting containers because to me your yard really needs hardscape. I know you have rocks, but they echo what I think is a bit of a design failing IN your beds (never mind their shape for a moment): kind of a tendency toward... spots? That captures what I don't like in your narrow bed now, what I don't like about the rose bed (and sorry, I hate those plants anyway - more indeterminate blobs with small leaves), and what I don't like about the rocks you've got. Plop. That's kind of the way I see a lot of those placement decisions. Collecting your boulders into groups might be much better. Collecting your plants into groups would too. I know all this doesn't address overall design, but that narrow bed isn't likely going to be part of any overall design anyway as it doesn't have "line" connection with anything you might do on the property (unless you can apply Woody's idea of running lines across the walkway...). I still like Woody's drawing but as far as overall design is concerned, I LOVE pls's concept. I wonder what would happen if you erased all the beds you've got and tried to sketch that out. Maybe boulder rearrangement could be guided by this concept at least. And it might enable you to keep some of the house wall clear. So I'm rambling a bit, sorry. Yes, I see bed shape as a problem here, but I think bed design/planting scheme is also contributing to the whole composition not working. Focal points, structure, hardscape, garden furniture... I think that is where you will need to go once you have bed shape worked out. It is not only plants that contribute balance, unity, repetition, etc. Actually now that I think about it, my plant zoo is actually irrelevant to my yard's design. I could move all my plants into different positions tomorrow, and the overall impression the yard makes would remain the same based on the hardscape alone. I think you are expecting the plants to BE your design, and that is maybe the fatal flaw. Karin L...See MoreMixed evergreen border - need creative ideas!
Comments (20)what is the problem with b&b? ===>>> first off... most of us.. do not have a husband who has very large machines .. to move these things around... lol ... i 6 foot BB... can weight.. 200 to 300 pounds.. you arent going to be hoiking that size things.. out of the car pictured above ... its no real problem getting them into the car ... and i often joke with the burly young men loading it at the nursery.. if they are willing to follow me home to get it out ... even if you have them delivered to the driveway .. moving them a couple hundred feet across the yard.. can be a lumbar disc killer ... sans heavy equipment ... now.. a large BB was field grown ... and if .. as it is said.. a tree is twice as big below as above ground... and you dig up a 6 foot tree .. with at most a 2 or 3 foot rootball.. you should be able to conceptualize ... that a vast majority of the root mass is cut off ... and since no one can see into the ground.. there is some loss.. simply because the digging itself causing severe root loss ... so.. based on all the above ... i would never go.. about a 3 footer ... and do be prepared.. that once you sink the roots ... it might only be a 2 footer.. lol ... so when i say 3 foot .. i mean the tree part ... its all about the stress you are applying to the plant ... thru digging .. transporting.. and planting.. and the larger the plant.. the larger the stresses involved ... i highly recommend you call your COUNTY extension office .... and ask them about their suggestions for your COUNTY ... that is a good way to start with LOCAL opinion .. feed us back that knowledge .. and we can go from there ... i even found out.. they had a tri-county forester on staff.. and though it took a few weeks, he eventually visited and offered many opinions ... and also ask if they have any spring plant sales.. my MI soil conservation dist offices sell 1 to 2 foot trees and conifers for a buck or two .... this is a good way to plant a lot of stuff .... on a low budget .... and do understand.. there really is no instant gratification in this project ... one thing you really need to get thru your head though.. is that this is not suburbia .... and this is not a one year project ... i would suggest.. with the scope of what you are trying to accomplish.. a min of 5 years.. to get this done ... coffee buzz is kicking in.. and my eyes are vibrating.. no chance to reread the above.. lol... gotta go .. perhaps do a couple laps around the acreage ... lol ken...See More[His said/She said]: Need help in L-shape border design
Comments (7)A few things to think about not related to specific plants is the amount of litter they produce on the patio. Lots of flowers means lots of petals and possibly leaves falling and lots of sweeping if you want it to stay clean. Also, you and your guests will be sitting right there with them, so plants that look good from afar, might not look that great close up all year long. They might look great when they are blooming, but not so great when they are out of bloom and can detract from the overall look. Another is the ultimate size of what you are planting - 30" depth is not alot. Most plants that grow to 3 feet tall, will likely be 3 feet wide or more and that would mean lots of pruning, or taking up lots of your hardscape area. I don't know how tall your knock outs are now, but expect them to get quite large, and will probably hang over your patio alot unless you severely prune them. That might be OK, but something to think about. Some nice plants that look good all the time for your backbone, and then some pocket color to break up the sameness. Small nandinas give you beautiful winter color in sun, always look good, and don't drop alot of litter. Rosemary looks good all the time, and blooms are small so the litter won't be so in your face. Purple fountain grass gives great color - good for background or at the end of a bed. Liriope for a border - easy care. Moss verbena is good. Stella d'Oro daylilies. Summer phlox. A few bulbs like jonquils for winter, oxblood lilies for fall could be interplanted. Blue Shades ruellia is a great ground cover. Plumbago are gorgeous, but I think our growing season isn't long enough in DFW to get a good show after the first year when you buy that beautiful blooming plant in the nursery, and then it barely blooms the next year (that's been my experience anyway). But try 1 or 2 in the mix, and maybe you'll have better luck. A couple of tropical hibiscus, but they are annuals and would have to be replanted every year. Pieris never did well for me - it might be a heartbreaker. Part of the fun is trying and failing and trying again, but I know that can get expensive, so having learned so many expensive lessons, I now plan carefully, and expect most of the information on the plant tags (especially mature size) to be outright wrong!...See MoreDoes anyone else worry their kitchen isn't as sophisticated?
Comments (81)I hang around this and a few other forums even though I haven't remodeled my kitchen since 2003. Well, actually, it was 1989/90 when we gutted the house and the "new" kitchen was installed. In 2003 all we did was put in new flooring and countertops...my initial amateur attempt at kitchen design in 1989 actually turned out pretty well. A few mistakes but nothing earthshattering. Maybe I was just lucky. Actually, in our neighborhood we ARE the Joneses. The only other people who have installed fancy new kitchens are the ones who bulldozed the original small house and popped up a larger duplex atop our bigger-than-average city lots. Most long-time homeowners in my area are using original 1930's and 1940's kitchens. With the downturn in the market I don't foresee many remodels taking place here. This is a starter neighborhood; Ikea cabs are considered fancy (which they are, compared to the built-in-place flimsy wood originals most HO have). Because my kitchen is nicely functional, but also 19 yrs old and done on the proverbial shoestring (okay, maybe two shoestrings), it lacks many design and style features I see in photos (both pro and amateur) nowadays. Big kitchens and pro-style appliances weren't around when I was originally running up my credit cards at Home Depot. But I feel lucky; most of my family and friends are suffering with their much more dated, much less functional original kitchens. I have 30' of countertop space, and wonderful Kraftmaid frameless semi-custom cabs, with spice pullouts, roll-out double pantries, EZ reach upper corners, Lazy Susan corner bases - all useful things that are way beyond what even remodeled kitchens have around here, and are only dreams for most of my neighbors. They envy our double-pane picture windows, high ceilings, recessed lights - heck, most of them don't even have an exhaust fan! If I had a spare $50K, or even $35K, I'd update this kitchen into something more photo-worthy. But the layout would remain exactly the same. It would just be "window-dressing". Fun, but not worth doing unless I have nothing better to do with the money (and I do, since we'll need a new roof and furnace in the next 5 yrs, LOL - gotta do those things first!). I love buying kitchen magazines for the same reason I hang around these forums. Because I haven't done a kitchen top-to-bottom in quite a while, I learn a lot about how things have changed, what's new on the market, what to do and what not to do, etc. etc. Since this isn't our 'forever' house (not designed for easy maintenance when elderly), I figure at some point I might be remodeling another kitchen (shudder) someday. I like to keep up on things, and I enjoy looking at other people's kitchens, just for the fun of it. Even if much of it is not to my taste, it is always enjoyable to see what others are doing and congratulate them on a job well-done. Remodeling is hard work, mentally exhausting (and physically so if you're a DIYer) and often demoralizing. It is great to see stories shared here, advice freely given, and generous doses of sympathy when needed, amongst strangers....See Morerobo (z6a)
7 years agowritersblock (9b/10a)
7 years agolana_roma
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoMichael
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoMichael
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoUser
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoMichael
7 years agorobo (z6a)
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