Mike, I had two 50 ft. lengths of drip hoses wound in, out and around the plants with mulch covering them - all throughout the garden in the veggie garden. The mulch was piled on 8 inches thick or thicker under and around them. I put covers over the tomatoes in late July through August. I have good well water, so no chlorine that can damage plants. Notwithstanding all that I did, when temps reached 110-120, everything just turned brown, and then blister beetles ate what was left. I had tall, dark green, beautiful corn plants with 2-3 huge ears on each plant, but upon checking them, they had few developed kernels. Total loss. I planted more than one hundred tomatoes (seven varieties), corn, beans, cantaloupe, watermelon, bell peppers, three types of hot peppers, Red bells, zucchini, and onions. Normally I get enough to can, freeze, eat fresh and sell at the Farmer's Market & Health Food stores and still have enough to donate to the Food Bank. Not last year. The only tomatoes I got were a handful from the plants I grew in large pots, but only a few. They were sure good though. Cherokee Purples were especially yummy and the Lemon Boys. I think I got about 20 tomatoes altogether. I got more than everyone else around here. Their plants kicked it in June and July. I did get some okra from the plants in the smaller, lower garden and a few pitifully small Early Girl tomatoes, and a pretty good harvest of Jalapenos in September when it cooled down a bit, but that was all. I put so much work into it and expense. But it was just too hot. It was like standing inside a furnace ever day. I lost several small trees, one large weeping willow and several Eponymous shrubs. And what the heat didn't kill, the voles did, chewing the roots off several of my roses. What a horrible year! Sorry to go on about it...

Hi, I'm also in 7a and grow a wide variety of passifloras. Do you know what variety you have? If it's a cold hardy variety you can just allow it to go dormant and not worry about it until spring. I keep most of mine in a heated greenhouse but used to keep them inside under HID lights. They don't like the change of climate and will suffer from shock. I used to cut my vines way back when I brought them in and only left about 6" of stems. That way the new growth will be more acclimated to the indoor conditions. You can also root some of the vines you cut off. I cut back on the amount of water and fertilizer they get while inside but I do mist them. You might even consider running a humidifer. Not only is the low humidity bad for the plant it promotes insect infestations, especially things like spider mites and mealy bugs. A good grow light helps. Even a window with a good exposure isn't usually sufficient. You should have been feeding it over the summer. I wouldn't feed it now. I never fertilize a stressed plant but you might want to give it some Superthrive and/or B1 to help with shock. Once it's healthy again you can give it some food. Good luck.

I've hesitated to reply because I don't know! only want to sympathize with your dilemma. At our old house growing young roses up a bit in pots was basically a failure,because of lack of light, but here at the new house I can see that it's very different: plenty of morning sun and afternoon shade. So this fall I'm thinking to pot up all new roses,but just for one season. I, too, find growing roses in pots too much work and just can't keep up. Like Kes Z, I am much more concerned about losing roses to heat and drought (I'm in Italy, about a zone 8,but my garden has a south-western exposure, so it's protected from North winter winds, but subjected to terribly brutal summer sun). Still, I've always mounded/protected baby bare-root roses planted out in fall/winter, just in case. I guess in general I'd vote to plant them out in the ground,especially the larger ones,but I think I might protect them. One way that I've done this successfully is by using pieces of styrofoam-you know, those odd-shaped pieces that are used in packaging so many things? I break these up to smaller sizes, if necessary, andmake a sort of little corral around the canes of the rose,holding the pieces in place with stones,earth,whatever. Then I fill in the top a bit with other pieces,holding these in place with sticks,teepee-style,or use wine corks. I like this way of protecting because the materials are efficient insulators, but also sterile so bacteria and fungus aren't encouraged.You'd only mount these potective teepees once the temperature really drop.If some are still very, very tiny, you could keep those few in their pots.

@floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK Thank you, I get it :) :). Kind of like lavender. I did not know oregano is a sub shurb too. @CA Kate z9 I thought so too....the soil in the pots are going to freeze solid, how can this possibly work? But you can leave hardy plants in pots outside. There have been roses in grow bags that I meant to plant and forgot and they were fine the next spring, no problem, just leafed out like the other in ground roses and kept on ticking. And these were not near the house, but way out there. I have forgotten to plant a gardenia and a tea olive that I meant to plant in the ground, and these were meant to be experiments to see if I could even grow them in the ground in my area. They were just fine. And still are fine in the pots. Thyme and oregano are usually cold hardy to zones 6, even zone 5, so I think they are going to be fine. I will know in spring. They is a YTer that grows these two herbs ( and others) in pots outside in Zone 6b.