When to start cloning blueberry and raspberry cuttings?
Jason
7 years ago
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Kevin Reilly
7 years agoJason
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Fertilizing Raspberries and Blueberries
Comments (22)Below is from the University of North Carolina......you will see the experts recommend fertilizer the first year. You will find no university in this nation that recommends no fertilizer the first year. You have to amend the soil if you want quick growth. Fertilization a) Use Caution - Blueberries are easily damaged by excess fertilizer. Apply the recommended amount from a soil test report and allow 4 inches of rain or an equivalent amount of irrigation between applications. b) First Year - Do not fertilize immediately after planting. Wait until the first leaves have reached full size, then apply 1 Tbs of a special azalea fertilizer, 12-12-12 or 10-10-10 within a circle 1 foot from the plants. Repeat application of fertilizer at 6 week intervals depending upon rainfall or irrigation until mid-August in the Coastal Plain and mid-July in the Mountains. Use 1/2 Tbs of ammonium nitrate instead of the complete fertilizer for the second and subsequent applications if phosphorus was above 60 on the soil test. c) Second Year - Double the first year's rates, but increase the circle around plants to 1 1/2 ft . Apply the first application when new growth begins in spring. d) Bearing Plants - When growth begins in the spring, apply 1 cup of complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 within a circle 3 ft from the plant. If more vigorous growth is desired, sidedress with 1/4 cup of ammonium nitrate at 6 week intervals. On mature bushes 6 to 12 inches of new growth is adequate for optimal balance of plant size and yield. Additional growth must be pruned away. This may result in a loss in production, but it is necessary to keep the plants from becoming excessively large. Determine sidedressing requirement based on the amount of shoot growth. e) Lowering pH - If the soil pH is slightly high in an established planting based on a soil test; then sidedress with ammonium sulfate rather than ammonium nitrate. If the pH is 0.5 units or more above the acceptable range, apply wettable sulfur in a narrow band under the drip line of the bush at the rate of 0.1 lb per bush to lower pH 1 unit. Here is a link that might be useful: University of North Carolina...See MoreBlueberry/Raspberry project from scratch-Gritty Mix Help Portuga
Comments (38)Hi, Here´s an update of my experiment 1 month after repotting. There were ups and downs. The first couple of weeks i was struggling to get my PH right and now i´m using 3 tablespoons/10 L of vinegar everytime i water (that´s about PH 4,8) and now all my pots range from 4,8 - 5,7. I think this is working well, but if the ph keeps lowering more then i expect i´ll problably cut the vinegar to 2.5/2 Tbs/10L. Week #1 After reppoting I´ve feed all the plants with a solution of 10grms/10 L of 12.5-5-15 + Micronutrients (2L each Pot) and all the plants turned to a redish/brown 2 days after (photo in my last post). They looked not good at the end of week one. PH was going up and down as i was watering with regular tap water. Week #2 Started adding vinegar to water and PH of potting mix started lowering. All plants where growth stalled and redish/brown leaves didn´t developed any further. The exception come up with pot #5 which is a different and unknown cultivar that i bought already fruiting. This one´s leaves never turned pale green but some of the lower leaves started turning brown/purple. Fertilized with AS 2 times this week with 1/2 teaspoon /10L vinegar water(a little less than 1/2 tsp/2.5 gal). I gave each pot abou 1,5/2 L of this solution. Week #3 Fertilized once with the same AS dosis i did the week before. Some leaves started to show a scorch in the middle of the leaves and mostly the new ones started to burn a litlle on the leaves edges (maybe the AS solution is very strong or 1,5/2 L per plant is a lot, not sure here - i´m using 5 gal pots). Some pots showed up signs that something was not ok besides their color and the scortches, showing up some curled leaves, mostly the new ones. They were greener but kind of stalled. At this time, half the week was gone, and i stopped the AS fertilization and added 5grams/ of granular Organic fertilizer (half the recomend dosis) NPK 5-8-15 and Rocmagic Ironite as a source of nicronutrients with 1% Ca and 1% Mg. My goal here was to feed the plant with some nutrients that could be missing and to achieve the 3:1:2 ratio of NPK. Using this organic NPK and the AS i could get this ratio and and still use Fruitnuit´s fertilization program of AS (Feed N more times with a weak solution). Week #4 Temperatures turned from 60F(16C) average the first 3 weeks to 77F (25C) this week, and plants showed immediatly some growth and a lot of new vegetative buds and new shoots. Redish/brown seems to be fading away almost tottaly on older leaves by the end of the week, but all new leaves came up with a pale green color and just some of them with that redish/brown color especially on the borders. The older leaves were green almost like before re-potting. I was not really sure what to do here, i am sure the wheather was the most important factor of the plants recovery, not sure about the Organic NPK effect on this week´s growth. As thing were going ok, except for the pale green new leaves, I restarted the AS fertilization at the end of the week. Week #5 Temperatures droped again from 77F (25C) to 57F(14C) by day and 50F (10C) 50F by night, and the weather was very rainy and windy. Immediatly leaves and shoots stopped growing and the leaves turned everyday browner and browner. I still fertilized with AS once again this week, but leaves started to burn on the edges, so i stopped. Pot#5 is now with many leaves Brown/purple again. Pot #5 has more and more leaves colored purple. I think this is a lack of P, so i added 50 grams of Red Guano as a source of P only on this pot. I think weather had a dramatic influence on plant growth and i´m not sure of the contribute of the complete organic fertilizer. I still can´t get rid of the brown/red color on new leaves. I know brown/red leaves are normal in a spring with cold tempertures, and it´s true that when temperature raised to 77F (25C) leaves turned greener (pale green), but is it normal this leaf color with 57F(14C)? Or is there some nutrient missing too? Pale green color in new leaves seems to me like lack of N, but everytime i feed them with AS, there´s always a little burn on the edges and some burned tips too. What do you think of reducing to 1/4tsp AS/10L? 1,5/2L per bush in a 5 gallon pot seems ok? Must i fertilize with AS only when there is full sun? Pot #5, which as fruit, also has purple leaves and not many growth. It didn´t respond to AS (never did) and didn´t respond to the P in red guano yet (just feed them 3 days ago). Hope it recovers.. I´m hopping anyone can give me some advice of what´s going on pots #1 to #4 and specially #5. Thanks...See MoreRaspBerry, BlueBerries, Grapes, and Rose Bush problem
Comments (1)Fricanod: Since you are new to gardening, the problems may lie in your basic soil preparation or watering. What kind of soil do you have, and did you add any amendments when planting? Blueberries require an acidic soil rich in organic material, but well drained. Are you mulching your plants, and how much and how often do you water? Excessive watering is a common mistake of new gardeners. Mulching helps to conserve moisture and hold down weeds. So tell us about these things. There is no reason to believe that eggplant would affect your other perennial plants. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA...See MorePicking Blueberries and Raspberries
Comments (43)>>>So can I assume that any/all fruit bearing varieties in catalogs that state that they require a pollinator "for better production" or "for a larger harvest" are cloned cultivars? Yes, but be careful. This is not the same as when the catalog says "buy two for better fruit production" or "requires a pollinator, buy two" and there is only one kind to choose from. In this case the plants are seedlings, and are therefore genetically different. They are different clones, but not named cultivars. Now if the catalog says: "requires pollinator for fruit production" instead of "requires pollinator for better fruit production", the answer is still pretty much yes, but... 1) If the species is dioecious, where there are male plants and female plants, then of course, an opposite sex would be required as a pollinator, and both male and female may or may not be cultivars. However in most cases, to determine the sex of an individual plant, seedlings must be grown to adulthood, so practicality necessitates clonal propagation, usually of named cultivars. 2) In a few cases, different self infertile species can pollinated each other. In such a case, "requires a pollinator" does not dictate clonal separation (within the species), just species separation. Therefore, the plants of either species may or may not be name cultivars....See MoreKevin Reilly
7 years agoJason
7 years agoKevin Reilly
7 years ago
Otto Gsell, Upstate SC 7b
7 years agoKevin Reilly
7 years agoOtto Gsell, Upstate SC 7b
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoOtto Gsell, Upstate SC 7b
7 years agoJason
7 years agoOtto Gsell, Upstate SC 7b
7 years agoKevin Reilly
7 years ago
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Otto Gsell, Upstate SC 7b