If you are going to take the trees out right away, you can cut those grapes down and they will survive. I wouldn't take them to the ground. If you leave a couple of feet of vine, that short a bit will be pretty easy to untangle. If you aren't taking the trees down right away, leave the vines and see what they produce. Whether or not you like the grapes is going to make a difference in how you treat the vines. It sounds to me like the first step is to get the ivy under control. The trees might possibly be something to save. You won't know until you get them unburied and determine what they are and give them some pruning and care. Who knows, maybe those are fruit trees. I wouldn't automatically assume that grapes in a once cultivated garden gone out of control would be wild grapes. They could very easily have been deliberately planted back in the days when the garden was tended. I bought a place that had been abandoned for 6 years. The surviving plants were in bad shape, but I babied them just to see what I had. They looked like garbage, but some time in the past, someone was a pretty good gardener and most of the plants turned out to be excellent. It took some serious work to bring them back, but it was worth it. 2 completely "dead" bushes turned out to be gorgeous hardy hibiscus that have flowers for 6 months solid. 3 "dead" fruit trees are bearing fruit for me. An unidentifiable tangled mess of dead twigs is now a sweet-smelling honeysuckle. Clean up first, then stand back and take stock.

I have used and seen how coffee grounds under and around all your grape plants should keep them away . Boric acid also works well to rid oneself of ants . Spread across their path and they bring back to the nest . I need to learn how to rid myself of normal sized flies with some gold on them from eating my ripening red seedless grapes

when i was first learning ... there was no WWWeb ... i left everything for my MI winter ... and then in spring ... cut back to live tissue ... which was usually below snow cover ... it was the only way to insure that the catch 22 you mention ... how would i know.. i wasnt cutting off the only part that might live ... and 30 years later ... i still use that system ... i do not keep a retentive garden .. i revel in what a plant looks like dormant.. and in winter.. else i would just have a flat garden to look at all winter ... and half the time.. i never make it out there in spring to clean it all up ... what lives.. lives.. what doesnt doesnt.. and i dont really worry about it ... if it wants to die ... so be it... i didnt want it anyway .. lol .. yes.. you can spend hundreds of hours.. researching every know plant by name ... and cutting them all down ... but for me.. gardening is about turning off the technology.. and intuiting it all .. and enjoying being out in mother nature ... not going blind reading up on the computer ... buying zone appropriate plants.. and relying on ma nature to provide said zone.. is about all i do ... and though i may think about things all winter long... i dont worry about it all ... and it only took me 20 years to get to that point.. lol ... what one might call.. zen gardening .. [she really screwed with us last winter.. and sent us a z4 winter .. in my z5 ... lots and lots of damage.. oh well .. what can you do.. would worry have made a difference????] good luck ken

The way the leaves look thin and white reminds me of how Leafhopper damage can look on my rose leaves. Leafhoppers are green and very difficult to notice. Leafhoppers suck all the juice out of the leaves. I tried a quick search (I didn't do a real thorough search)for Leafhopper damage on beans and the pics show extensive yellowing, but I think that is later stage damage after the initial white caused by the leaf juice removal. I this might explain your not finding anything to match you pics in bean diseases. Remy