I highly doubt its SADD if others in the area have the same looking disease. My guess would be brown patch. The area of brown patch that I had in the winter is greening up, but not fully recovered. The area has hardly any upward growth, it appears to be stunted, which is a usual characteristic after the BP occurrence. In order for these areas to fully recover and start upward growth, is to put some quality compost on the effected areas and keep it moist for a week or so. (bagged compost will also work). From past experience, compost is the only solution I have found for the grass to fully recover from Brown Patch disease. The experiment I conducted was to determine if I had Root Knot Nematode. I placed Corn meal on the area at the recommended rate and sugar on half of the effected area. Initially, the sugar half recovered faster, but currently the half with Corn meal only is doing better. It takes time to recover, try not to expect instant results. About sod webworms: The larvae are greenish with many black spots. Adults are dingy brown moths with a wingspread of about 3/4 inch. You will see alot of moths fly away (somewhat eradically) when you walk or mow over the area. The adults (moths) are laying eggs, and the larvae feed on the grass blades and cause noticeable injury within 2 weeks (early webworm damage resembles drought stress, even when there is sufficient moisture). They complete their life cycle in 5 to 6 weeks and have several generations each year. The soap flush technique is a good way to detect sod webworms. dchall is 100% correct. Last year he told me the same thing he told you about the paper wasp. In the past I would kill them because my wife was worried about them stinging the kids. In turn, I would get sod webworm damage every year. Last year I stopped killing them and I must say they proved to be a huge help to me. I only had a few very very small areas that were damaged by the webworms. I would always see the paper wasps hovering just above the grass blades hunting for there next meal. I also used the BT a few times last year. Timing is very crucial for the product to work. Apply BT 1 week after you first notice the adult webworm moths fly around, then reapply every 3-4 days if in full sun and every 5-7 days in shady areas until the moths are gone. If it rains or you run your irrigation you must reapply. Hope this helps Can you post a few pictures? It would help out a lot.

Do you live in the area of SC. where mole crickets have taken up residence? Do another soap water test increasing the amount of soap by a bit. Pour it heavily from the center to the outside of one of the bad spots and after the angry worms have boiled out of the ground, turn your hose on gently, spray and water the soap suds watching carefully for mole crickets. They can be slow to emerge and disappear back underground quickly especially at this time of year when they are small. Hopefully mole crickets are not the problem. Don't be afraid to use cornmeal as needed on and around brown patch areas of the lawn. Good idea to do a repeat treatment two weeks later. Remember to moisten it with water after spreading.

It's still early. Give it another 3-4 weeks and reevaluate. Improper watering is almost always the culprit with St Aug issues. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

If there is active disease in the soil, the new grass will die in 2 weeks. Ask me how I know about that. You have to use the corn meal or cracked corn to get out of this situation. As I mentioned cornmeal is a biological control for certain fungal diseases in certain grasses. It seems to work in St Augustine all the time but other grass owners do not get the same success. Corn meal decomposes by a fungal action. Whatever the fungus is attracts a beneficial, predatory fungus to decompose the initial decomposer. That secondary fungus is called Trichoderma (try koh DER mah or trick oh DER mah). The population of the Trichoderma fungus increases on the corn meal. Once it devours the corn meal fungi, all that population of Trichoderma finds other pathogenic fungi in the soil and on the plants. It continues to work until the bad fungus is gone. After the disease is gone, the population of Trichoderma declines but never disappears in the soil. Since this biological control requires at least a minimal population of beneficial fungi in the soil, if you apply a chemical fungicide first, that kills off the beneficial fungi rendering corn meal ineffective as an anti fungal agent. However, corn meal also is a medium grade organic fertilizer. If you apply it at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet, it will supply all the fertilizer you need for many weeks. If you apply corn meal, and you should so as to not waste money on the new sod, then you should not need more fertilizer until the 4th of July. With the 4th of July being the hottest part of the year, you might want to use an organic fertilizer again at that time to take you through to Labor Day. Then you could restart chemical fertilizer if you want to do that. Organic fertilizers take 3 full weeks to show the improvement. This, too, is due to the biological process that have to happen before the grass gets the plant food. I can reconfirm that because I fertilized with alfalfa pellets just 3 weeks ago and "all of a sudden" my lawn looks dark green. It's always interesting to me how sudden the effect appears - just don't expect it to be sudden over night.