i was wondering about regional options... so i am glad.. my shotgun attempt hit something .... lol ... my point was ... OP is in a box .. of FIXING WHAT IS THERE ... i asked him to step out of the box ... and think along other lines ... depending of course.. on budget etc ... and immediacy of goals ... if i had crumb munchers... and i wanted a green lawn for them to play in.. i would not waste a year or two.. trying to renovate this alleged lawn ... there are times and places for checkbook gardening ... and if lawn is supremely important ... then spend the money ... it would be no different.. in a new house.. as updating a kitchen counter.. or replacing carpet ... just think of it as outdoor carpet ... and finally ... you could end up spending a heck of a lot of money trying to save this stuff ... and maybe.. end up spending more than sod will ever cost you .... good luck ken ps: of course.. if you are the pick up the gauntlet.. and this will not defeat me .. and i will die trying to overcome it.. good luck.. i am just playing off your need.. as you stated.. of walking around barefoot ... in the very near future ...

I agree. Don't expect the bermuda to be the first thing to turn green though. You will get early spring weeds and you might have crabgrass. That could be a problem for you.

This time of year, south of 'Frisco,' (I know y'all hate that term, about as much as we hate San Antone, but anyway...) you should be watering no more frequently than once every 4 weeks. Here is a picture of a neighborhood in east PA which is full of contractor grade KBG lawns. The picture was taken in July several years ago. The green lawn was replaced with a non-contractor grade seed, but the main point of difference is that the green lawn is watered once a week (during hottest heat of summer) while the rest are watered every day. Thank you to morpheuspa for the picture. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

It looks like the lawn sprinklers aren't keeping all of the lawn green. Get that fixed and the tree will probably be watered by the lawn sprinklers. If "the lawn sprinklers" = an irrigation system consisting of a network of buried lines with sprinkler heads attached to them then an irrigation contractor is who you should be talking to about your specific concerns. Meanwhile what does the tree look like, does it seem like it is getting enough water? If the fertilizer is an appropriate product for use on fruit trees then - yes - it should be applied at a different time of the year, such as spring or fall. Rather than during the hot time of the year, when application of mineral salts can increase susceptibility to drought. To be sure to avoid over-fertilization in general sample your soil and have it tested by a soils lab. Your nearest USDA Cooperative Extension Service branch office should be able to help you with this. The recently reduced production may or may not have anything to do with your fertilization program.