..... appears the soil is to water-retentive and compacted. Roots need oxygen to function normally. If the soil doesn't hold enough oxygen or you over-water, The plant's internal water pressure drops, causing loss of turgidity and wilting. The best way to tell if the/a soil is 'completely dry' is by using a tell. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

Please post a picture or two.

Here's a great post and discussion about growing houseplants. It's long, but that's because there's a lot to learn, and the Qs and in the thread clarify things that might seem complicated at first. Trust me, you'll be glad you picked up the basics when your babies start taking off! Good Growing Practices I tend to geek out and write to much, so I won't be offended if you focus on whatever seems useful instead of slogging through the whole thing. Have you checked the soil moisture? If a sharpened dowel (or chopstick or wooden skewer if a dowel isn't handy) pushed all the way through the soil comes out dry, it's time to water. If your new mix drains faster than the old, or if you didn't moisten it uniformly before potting the plant, it's likely the plant is thirsty. Water as often and as much as a plant needs rather than according to a fixed schedule or some idea of how much water you think it should get. What I do is to moisten the surface of the soil evenly, leave it for maybe 15 minutes, then water with a fertilizer solution until about 15% of the water given drains out of the pot. If the growing medium isn't evenly absorbing water because it got so dry that it became hydrophobic, I repeat the second step. In the winter I used 1/2 teaspoon of Foliage Pro per gallon every time I watered. Now that my plants are growing like gangbusters they get 2 teaspoons per gallon. I flush by letting 15-20% of the water drain through to avoid fertilizer or mineral buildup. Is your plant getting direct light (sunlight actually shining on the plant)? Indirect light that seems bright to us isn't enough for light-loving plants, and variegated leaves don't produce as much energy as completely green ones. If you don't have a nice sunny spot for it, adding a few 100 watt 3000K-4500K CFLs or LEDs will be better than nothing. I hope some of that helps. Best of luck!

welcome ... its been thru a lot of stress ... grower to seller.. to your place.. then the watering ... why dont you leave it alone for while.. and let it settle down and see what develops ... repotting it.. or worse.. dividing the plants out will just be one more giant stress .... lets let it settle down before we contemplate that ... on some level.. you are loving it to death .... lets try to back off that ... let it near dry before you water again... you should be able to tell by the pot weight when that is ... if not sticking your finger in the media ... i would probably look into propagating cuttings before i would tear it apart ... from the pix.. i dont understand if its by a window.. or in the middle of the room .. maybe you moved it for the pic ... but im not sure it will get enough light through the shear drapes ... give us some more info on that ... ken