It would help to have a picture or two of the plant and pot plus details like how you water it, whether you fertilize it, what kind of soil it's in, what kind of light it gets, whether it's been moved or had some other change recently...That will give people solid clues to what might be causing the problem.

It's been in the container that I bought it in since i got it- over a year ago haha. I haven't fertilized it. It gets bright indirect sunlight and some direct sun for a few hours a day. We recently moved into a new house so there is that change. The leaves keep on dropping, I think there's been at least six of them in the past few weeks. They all turn yellowish with dark brown spots.

Here's the rootball. It almost looks like there's mold in the soil?

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I can't see well because I'm on my phone, but the first things that jumps out at me are that the plant is rootbound and the bottom 3/4 of the soil looks absolutely saturated. It also looks like the soil is a conventional potting mix that retains too much water for a container plant. If that's the case your immediate problem could be overwatering, which is usually caused by watering on a schedule before all of the soil is at least dry enough for the rootlets to breathe so they don't die. Ultimately you should consider a fast draining mix that won't drown your roots, but first things first.

The great news is that you've caught this before the tree has gone into decline, which gives you more options. I've gotta go, but I'm sure someone will offer more information that will equip you to get your baby on the right track. Meanwhile here are some thoughts.

Depending on how we got here, there are things you can do to deal with the moisture problems. So, how often do you water? How do you decide it's time to water? How much water do you give at a time? Does the pot have drain holes?

Here's something quick you might start with that tapla suggested in a thread:. you can draw excess water from a rootbound plant by taking it out of the pot and setting it on something absorbent like old towels or a wad of paper towels until they've gotten as much water out as possible; that will open up some space for aroots come in and oxygenate the roots. You should also search for a thread called Container Soils by the same guy. Don't be intimidated by the amount of information; it's great if you can get a good understanding of what plants need, but you can also just do what needs to be done for this one plant using advice from all the excellent folks around here.

Lenore

Okay, I can see better on the iPad. I've posted links to threads about container growing and ficus in particular.

That soaked soil gives me the heebies. What are the white and yellow balls? The fuzzy white patch could be mold; what does it feel like?

Ficus like their soil to be almost completely dry between waterings. The quick and easy way to check is to push a 3/8" dowel all the way to the bottom. If the tip is dry when you pull it out, go ahead and water until 10-15% of the water has drained from the pot. I wait until the top of the soil dries out, then check every day until the dowel comes up dry. It takes maybe half a minute and makes a huge difference.

A lack of light or a change in the light when you moved could also make leaves yellow and drop. Your ficus need lots of light, so it needs to be within a few feet of a window that gets at least some direct sunlight during the day and bright indirect sunlight the rest of the time.

I've posted links to some threads that talk about growing ficus, soil in general, the things that can cause your plant's symptoms, and what to do about them.

Sick and dying plants

Ficus trees in containers

What Lenore said, plus: Container plantings need regular fertilizing. If you don't fertilize regularly, plants will take to cannibalizing its existing parts (leaves and branches) for mobile nutrients, then shedding them. "Mobile nutrients" are those that can move from place to place in the plant and includethe nitrate form of nitrogen, phosphorus in phosphate form, potassium, and magnesium, but chlorine, zinc, and molybdenum, are also mobile or partially so. Calcium, sulfur, iron, boron, and copper, are considered to be immobile.These nutrients must be present in the nutrient stream at all times in the plant is to grow and function normally. When a leaf is cannibalized of nutrients to fuel new growth, it is shed. The appearance of new growth at branch tips and new leaves doesn't necessarily mean the plant is growing. Growth is a measure of the plant's dry mass, so if a large leaf is shed and a small leaf or two appears, it can actually represent a step backward and a symptom of decline.

Tight roots also have a strong influence on the volume of leaves the plant can retain. Badly rootbound plants are very often conspicuous in that foliage tends to concentrate primarily at the growing tips of branches, giving many plants a poodle or pompon look.

On top of all that, over-watering and/or under-watering and/or a high level of dissolved salts (from fertilizers and/or tapwater) can work individually or in concert to cause a drought response which leads to leaves being shed.

Let me know if you find value in what this links you to, please.

I think it's a good time to formulate a plan you can work on between now and next June when you repot into an appropriate soil, one that allows you to water to beyond saturation w/o having to worry that an extended period of soil saturation will inhibit root function and wreck root health, which it WILL do if not guarded against. If you want help putting that plan together, let me know.

Edited to say: Looks like you have several links to explore. LB and I were typing at the same time.

Al