Do roses prefer semi arid to humid environments?
kingcobbtx7b
7 years ago
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wirosarian_z4b_WI
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Shape of compost pile in arid climate
Comments (4)Yes, it seems that water would be directed to the center of the pile quite effectively with that shape (both from precip and from irrigation), but it would also dry out more quickly because of the increased surface area compared with a simple mound. It seems that a simple mound also benefits from the thick layer of material at the center, which retains moisture. I strongly believe in covered compost piles for arid climates, and have had years of success by simply surrounding the pile with straw bales, and then covering the whole thing with a sheet of plywood. I build a small hinged trapdoor into the plywood for easy access, and pull off the entire top anytime I need to mix or harvest the compost (both of which I do only a few times per year). We average 13 inches annual precip with very little humidity where I live. A less formal version of this is simply a compost pile that is constructed all at once (not added to periodically like the typical kitchen compost described above), watered, then covered with a thick layer of mulch and left to decompose. Maybe the question is really one of water delivery versus water retention. Certainly an open pile in bright sunlight can work fine in an arid climate as long as it is watered frequently. I prefer to create an environment in which the moisture of the original compost material is retained, rather than worry about how effectively water can be put in. I do occasionally pull off the top of my compost pile during a rainy spell, or even throw on a bucket of water if the pile seems too dry. Of course if the starting material is very dry (such as old yard waste instead of nice slimy kitchen scraps) you would need to pay more attention to this. Anyway, good luck with your composting......See MoreWhat are your rose preferences?
Comments (27)I'm with Jim and modestgoddess--No. 1 concern is BS resistance! AT least some degree of resistance, though the more, the better! #2: floriferous and good repeat bloom #3: Usually, big, full, round blooms, but sometimes a single or semi-double is a nice change; frilly ruffly ones are attractive alternatives also. #4: Depends on which garden or part of the garden I'm planning on planting the rose. In the big bed, I have a number of reds--but also a yellow Berolina, a white Pope John Paul, a pink Jubilee Celebration and Eden climber--but red (with white perennials--hardy garden geraniums, etc.) is the main color theme. In another small bed, everything is soft romantic pink "lemonade" shades--that's where Easter Basket is, and my new Olivia Rose Austin joined them this year. Along the property line next to my neighbor's ugly garage they must be hot pink Peter Mayle, soft ivory/pale yellow Elina--good contrast there--or med. pink Mrs. John Laing as an inbetween buffer color--that pattern is repeated --no other colors allowed in there. In the other beds, certain colors predominate, but considerable variation is allowed also. #5: I have what I consider an "average" sized back yard--some room to play around with roses and flower beds, but some restraint is needed also since space is not unlimited. As a result, I've divided roses into general categories (hybrid teas/grandifloras; floribundas and modern shrubs; Austins; climbers; old garden roses and other older types like hybrid musks; minis) and I try to have a balanced offering --11 or 12--in each group. That way I get a little taste of all the different types. #6: And then there is the type of rose--a kind of love-at-first-sight rose. No reason except I'm in love and I want the rose and I'm going to have it! Munstead Wood and Love Song both fell in that category. Gotta make room for spontaneous attraction! Note: While fragrance is nice, it is never one of my main considerations, though at one point I made a perfumed path and carefully selected strong smelling roses to plant along it--just to make sure I had some good smellers--but others just accidentally showed up in other places also. Kate...See MoreHybrid Perpetuals + hot, humid summers = bad combo?
Comments (72)Perle's scent is very light. Her apricot blooms fade more quickly in sun, but they are charming either way. Perle is quite thorny and grows into a substantial bush. In its shadier location, my Perle can easily top 6 feet even when pruned regularly. Her buds are like tiny high centered Hybrid Tea buds. She is very healthy. Like Marie, Perle blooms late spring through fall. Something else to note about Marie Pavie: she's thornless. Carol...See MoreMost prolific watermelons in arid to semi-arid areas
Comments (9)No wilts. I'm not sure what mature vine declines are (but I looked it up, and it doesn't sound like it's something I've seen in the garden, since it involves wilting leaves, and although we do have foliar issues with watermelon, that's not one of them, so far). We get anthracnose (which IMO is spread by the spider mites) and/or alternaria, and exacerbated by my growing a bunch of plants in close proximity (for watermelons). That's about it as far as disease goes for watermelons, so far, but it eventually kills most varieties. I believe there are no symptoms until some time in August or September. The leaves begin to look stonewashed. It spreads over the old growth pretty rapidly. Eventually, the leaves get dry, dark patches on them, and they dry up. When most of the leaves dry up the plants normally die. Ground cherries and many other crops can get similar symptoms, sans the drying up and dying part, but those ground cherries that I've grown from saved seed have been resistant, for the most part. I think the watermelons can be, too, but maybe not as quickly/dramatically, and changes in growing conditions from year to year may upset that (growing conditions in 2017 were more stressful in some regards than in 2016). Watermelon, apples, and roses seem to be the favorite crops of spider mites here. It's not going to stop me from growing watermelon, though. The anthracnose/alternaria usually just affects the foliage here. The fruits are usually fine, and they usually ripen as the plants die (or before). Red-seeded Citron wasn't even phased by it, though (a few leaves on the newer growth were affected at the end of the season). A second-year Ledmon held out pretty well against it. Other than that, it has heavily afflicted them all (sans Sugar Baby, and a couple others, which we grew before we had any known spider mites). Later varieties sometimes hold out longer, until their fruit is ripe. Varieties resistant to anthracnose still suffer the same on a foliar level, but the fruit rinds don't seem to get speckled/stonewashed like some others do (which speckling may be from spider mites, but I have a hypothesis—that's all it is—that the disease makes the spider mite damage more visible). I'm thinking the resistance that people have bred in was just for the fruit itself. I've only seen fruit rot from anthracnose once or twice here—but even then, BER looks a lot like fruit rot from anthracnose in watermelons; so, it's hard to say. We might get some small, circular leisions on the rind, on occasion, but it doesn't penetrate and the fruit is fine to eat. I plan to invoke some new strategies to prevent and/or slow the issues, this year. On the bright side of things, though, we get earlier fruit than we would otherwise (although that can sometimes impact the taste and size, since they can die before the fruit is finished growing sometimes), and when the plants dry up, it's a lot easier to see and harvest the fruit. So, it's like a natural … I forgot the word for it—the word used for when farmer's kill their crops to make harvesting easier. I don't like that practice, but I can't say the spider mites are all bad. For muskmelons (or C. melo, rather) on the other hand, the spider mites don't trouble them (and I haven't noted any big disease issues with them); so, I still have to find their fruits in the foliage until the cold or something starts to phase them. I think we had one melon fruit with anthracnose once (which had been watered a lot). The leaves have always been fine and healthy as far as I recall, even when right next to spider mite infested watermelons with dying plants. It's a good area for muskmelons if you start them early and have the right nutrients. They do better with extra potassium and some minerals (e.g. calcium), it seems. The same nutrients being added doesn't seem to affect the watermelons. People in the area can get big watermelons, but I imagine they have looser soil with more organic matter, compost, more space per plant, etc. (without spider mites). I have a hard time imagining that these spider mites haven't colonized the whole world, however, but apparently they haven't. I've had a few that some might consider big, but nothing too big. I had a large Ledmon in 2016 (the size was large, I mean), but it was hollow inside and not very heavy. The flesh that once filled the middle had a unique squid-like texture, but the flesh an inch or so out from the rind was good. I think it was hollow due to being overripe, but it was an unusual fruit in other ways (it was ribbed and the rind itself was sweet). The other Ledmon fruits weren't hollow or overripe, but they were about half the size or less (and one of them tasted amazing); they weren't ribbed, and they didn't have sweet rinds. My biggest this year was Congo; not big for Congo by any means, but probably not too undersized for the variety. Black Diamond and Florida Giant were almost as big. Blacktail Mountain gets ripe fruit before the foliar issues begin, I believe. I think Verona might, too, but I'm not sure....See MoreUser
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