Propagation of roses - noticed new growth 5 days in...are there roots?
Ihave Nonamé
7 years ago
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Ihave Nonamé
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Planted bare root rose 2 days ago,,,looking sad what to do
Comments (13)Thank you all. They actually were in dark colored soil (bare root bag) that I kept very moist until they were in the ground and have kept my eye on watering them now that they are in the ground, daily. Around me, I've only seen the saw dust bare root at one place but they were out of Z.D. at the time. I bought them from a very reputable and well know nursery and the guy actually went into a holding area to get me the best ones. I'll snap off the new growth as you all said. Question: Would some alfalfa meal on top of the soil be of help now or just wait? I read someone else's post about this. I wouldn't do the tea but just do the meal on top and water. For my other 19 rose bushes (inherited when we bought this house), when should I do this alfalfa thing? Any BEST time to do this? Since many of the older established roses are of unknown varieties, is there any way to tell what TYPE of rose they are since I noticed that the new leaves in some are dark almost purpleish and in other bushes they are bright green? I was just wondering about them. So far I've taken out some of the bushes that had no smell or where just shrub roses etc. that I didn't like and picked out new ones that I wanted. Just something I noticed and thought you all might have some insight into this. Fun learning all this stuff. I'm soaking up all the knowledge I can right now. I'm a sponge much to my husband's pocket's dismay.... ;D...See MoreSome roses difficult to propagate-any ideas?
Comments (7)I'll second hoovb's suggestion of trying different methods until you develop a system that works for you. Albas generally root pretty well for me, 'Queen of Denmark' being the exception (I'm currently trying hoovb's layering technique on it), while I struggle with Noisettes that many people find easy. I agree that time of year for rooting may be an issue. I've always started cuttings in fall, in the ground in a cold greenhouse, which in my mild climate works fine for most roses. Now I finally have a north facing wall with some clear space at the base of it, and next summer I want to try to root roses that I've failed at before like the Noisettes. My problem with summer rooting has been what you say: too much heat, sun, and dryness. People who root roses in cold climates have a different set of conditions to deal with than I have: I remember a forumist from New York state talking about her difficulties. Like you, she had trouble rooting Albas. I don't use rooting hormone, and don't know how much of a difference it would make. Lots and lots of roses root just fine without hormone. If it did make a 10% difference, just to throw a number out at random, that would count for something. You're talking mostly about once-blooming roses. I have a question myself about the maturity of the growth to take in fall: use the new shoots that have grown over the summer, or the older shoots that flowered in late spring? I've been hedging my bets and taking some of both, but I imagine it makes a difference. Custom rooting could also be because these roses unfortunately aren't that popular. I've had very mixed results attempting to root the once-blooming roses of European origin, but quite a few are not that hard to propagate from cuttings. Melissa...See Moreforcing new growth with rooting hormone.
Comments (18)normal buds might sit for a month before growing. or more. since citrus grows in flushes you might need to wait for the next one before these buds will grow. depends on growing conditions, e.g. mine start another flush approx in 6-8 weeks. also i would pinch off the tips with like an inch of top stem on all branches - i actually pinch more, may be half the new growth, to shape the tree. but i am not concerned with fruit at this stage. but a couple of new leaves will do. this will encourage all side buds to grow, including the new ones. normally with good water/fertilizer there are water sprouts from the main trunk occurring anyway even without pinching. mine produces a fair amount of those since i prune for shape often. i don't remove them, i push them gently to desired angle when they are very young and bendable. and then hook them up with wire clips in position, then prune/branch. i have some dormant buds that developed on 1yr seedling avocado on main trunk very low (3-4 inches) - but they just sit there doing nothing for 4 months. you can also trim off that top growth that is bending sideways. i ordered keikigrow too. and sprayed all my trunks with kelp solution as for reg foliar feed AND watered it in too. seems kelp has a lot of grow factors too....See MoreSoil mix for indoor-baggie rose rooting vs. outdoor rooting with rain
Comments (56)PICTURES OF MY ROOTING ON JAN 30, INDOOR ZONE 5A, 2 1/2 months of rooting: Zippered bed-sheet pouches won over pop-bottle: more sunlight. Below is a very wimpy rooting with a LARGE pop-bottle on top: What I learned from my 1st-time rooting indoor, in zone 5a: Cheryl Netter, the originator of "baggie method" lives in a SUNNY zone 5a Colorado, with 247 to 285 days of sunshine versus my Chicagoland with 191 sunny days (mostly partial sun). My mother-in-law lives in Colorado Springs, and at high altitude, the sun is much more intense. Sun is needed to zap mold. STABLE environment is the key to success rooting. When I squirted water on the cuttings, it drop leaves immediately. Cuttings drop leaves with excessive moisture. I should had used my alkaline tap water (pH 9) plus hydrogen peroxide to prevent mold & black canker. I used rain water, which is perfect pH for mold to grow. The addition of my magnesium-rich clay on top helped with photosynthesis in the weak-sun indoor-zone 5a. After I topped with magnesium, leaves became darker green. After 2 1/2 months, baggie via zippered-bed-sheets WON over pop-bottle. Baggie has a larger area of soil for evaporation of moisture. Plus Baggie allows more sun & air to prevent mold. All my rootings under pop-bottle failed. They sprout green leaves, but the minute I take the pop-bottle off, leaves drop. My sister in WARM California had the same experience. One site said to take the pop-bottle off EVERY NIGHT, which makes sense since there's zero light at night, thus encourage mold & black canker. But it's a nuisance to take pop-bottle off everynight. Pouring water down the stem of cuttings is THE BEST WAY TO KILL THEM. Cuttings rot easily if the medium is acidic & wet....See MoreIhave Nonamé
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoIhave Nonamé
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