Was this a bareroot rose in a package, or potted?? I'm trying to figure out what you started with.

If it was a bareroot rose in say a package, or just completely bare, then you should have removed all the new little sprouts at planting. This is because the roots are still asleep, and cannot support any new growth until the roots get into the soil and start growing.

Or was it a potted rose with actively growing roots, and when you took it out of the pot, the soil all fell off? If so it should recover, especially if it is in as shady a spot as you describe. Just make sure the soil stays moist (not soggy--no need to drown it!). You could shade it completely for a few days with an umbrella or something to reduce stress until it recovers.

Re: aphids...just wash them off with a spritz of water from the hose.

My ZD did not do well in shade. Sparse bloom, no rebloom and lots of BS. When I moved her, she took off, I got re-bloom and the BS was much less. I think that the idea ZD does well in shade is a myth. Denise

I think that the idea ZD does well in shade is a myth.

I agree with you 100%.

Bare root in that slim package with the semi paperish surround holding in some soil.

Should I take the little bit of growth off of it?
I was just wondering why one with it's packaged soil and my amended good soil is fine and the one that went in with bare roots into my "rose" soil is droopy. I've heard before that you should soak your bare roots over night etc. but I've never done that. All my other roses that I pruned in Jan. have leaves (So. Calif) on them etc. but these are well established roses.

You could just pinch it off if it is really just a bit of growth. Is the "rose" soil fully moist? You might need to poke your finger around in there and see if there are dry spots or air pockets. Sometimes the bagged stuff does not moisten up properly if it has dried out in the bag.

Piper, since you are in Southern California, our timing and conditions are likely somewhat similar.

I understand that your rose was in a bag, AND that it had a fair amount of soft growth.

For the good of your plant, I'd advise that you go out and snap off all of that growth, right up to the cane.
That growth is never going to be vigorous, and it is pulling on the energy stored in the roots of the rose.

This sort of growth appears not infrequently, when bare-rooted roses have sat on the shelf too long.

Remove that growth now.
Pile some mulch up around the canes, and KEEP IT WET for the next couple of weeks.
Water daily.
GRADUALLY begin to wash the mulch off.

The rose will probably be fine -- but as it was planted very late, you're going to have to give it a little extra help.

Jeri Jennings
Camarillo, CA, Ventura Co.

And next time place the rose in a bucket of water for at least 24 hours. Add a bit of root starter solution to the water. A bagged bare root rose requires a good soak before planting to replenish the moisture that has evaporated from the canes while waiting to be sold. The usually tiny root systems that come with these bagged roses are not big enough to absorb enough water to support all those canes. Those roots are only anchor roots. It takes a while for the tiny hair like feeder roots to grow and begin to soak up moisture. Thus the good soak before planting. The sawdust or shavings are meant only to keep the roots from drying out while in the bag. Another thing that helps is to cover the canes with soil or other material to keep them moist. This prevents drying out. New grow will grow through this.
Follow the instructions of those folks above about the soft pale growth and try to buy roses that have swollen buds but no long growth. It'll probably wilt and die anyway for lack of water and too much sun.
Regarding the other one that's just fine. You were extremely lucky with that one. You can avoid this problem if you soak before you plant. Then pour the water you had the bush soaking in slowly around the plant. You can't give your new bush too much water at the beginning.

I would get it out of the ground and into a bucket of water right away... after a day or so I would replant it and water it in well... hopefully it's not too late...

I'm confused about mounding with soil. I've done this with mixed results...sometimes they get really cankered.
Linda

I've never experienced that problem (canker) cause by covering the canes with soil, but then I top prune my bare roots to get rid of machanical harvest damage. Tiny cuts, scraps, and nicks caused by the harvesting machinery are a source for cankers. By top pruning I eliminate most of these sources.
Close inspection of the canes will show lots of damage. As the season progresses this is more obvious in later purchased plants, even potted ones.
Early growth you already had on the bare roots is due to nutrients and moisture stored in the canes.
I wouldn't remove the roses as the tiny feeder roots may have begun to grow already. Removing them from the ground will remove the feeder roots. They'll have to start all over again. Each time takes strength from the plant and stresses them.
I'd just make sure they had plenty of water all the time until good grow is visable. Don't keep the soil wet, just super moist.
I've found a 5 gallon bucket with a nail hole in the very bottom side releases water at a rate that it all soaks into the ground instead of running off. Until the plant shows signs of growth, I use a bucket full each day on a newly planted bush.

Thank you all. They actually were in dark colored soil (bare root bag) that I kept very moist until they were in the ground and have kept my eye on watering them now that they are in the ground, daily. Around me, I've only seen the saw dust bare root at one place but they were out of Z.D. at the time. I bought them from a very reputable and well know nursery and the guy actually went into a holding area to get me the best ones. I'll snap off the new growth as you all said.

Question: Would some alfalfa meal on top of the soil be of help now or just wait? I read someone else's post about this. I wouldn't do the tea but just do the meal on top and water. For my other 19 rose bushes (inherited when we bought this house), when should I do this alfalfa thing? Any BEST time to do this? Since many of the older established roses are of unknown varieties, is there any way to tell what TYPE of rose they are since I noticed that the new leaves in some are dark almost purpleish and in other bushes they are bright green? I was just wondering about them. So far I've taken out some of the bushes that had no smell or where just shrub roses etc. that I didn't like and picked out new ones that I wanted.

Just something I noticed and thought you all might have some insight into this. Fun learning all this stuff. I'm soaking up all the knowledge I can right now. I'm a sponge much to my husband's pocket's dismay.... ;D

Alfalfa meal now would do little until it breaks down. If you can't make alfalfa tea, try well "diluted" fish emulsion. It's a great tonic and won't burn the new tiny feeder roots.

Piper -- It's likely best not to feed them at all until after the first flush of bloom. Right now, you do not want to encourage top-growth. You want to encourage ROOT growth.

BTW, for those who wondered about the mounding technique:
This is a matter of Location, Location, Location.
SoCal has had in the past month or so a series of Santa Ana windstorms. This means very strong, VERY DRY winds off the desert, gusting upwards of 60 mph. These conditions will suck the moisture out of ESTABLISHED plants, nevermind newly-planted ones.
Now we're getting temperatures running up towards 80 deg in inland valleys.
Most of the established roses in our garden are covered with buds, and about ready to start popping.
In such conditions, I really do recommend mounding.

Jeri