Is my tile choice a bad one? Should I start over?
Chromatic
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Chromatic
7 years agoChromatic
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Should I start over while I still can?Brown Rot!
Comments (2)Curious to hear how your tomatoes are doing now and if you feel the copper spray helped. I just recently noticed brown streaks on some of my stems and a few of the leaves are dying at the margins, too. It's been so darn HOT here I'm hoping it's just the heat and not some horrible disease. Thanks....See MoreBad shower tile mistakes... Should I make them fix?
Comments (7)Oakrunfarm -- We had a lot of problems with our tile installation, and my advise to you is to bring it up with the installers and builders and see what solution they have, after you make it clear - nicely of course -- that these things are not acceptable to you. In one bathroom, where we used white hexagon tile for the floor, the tiler only grouted half of the floor one day, because for whatever reason they didn't get enough of the color they needed. That should have been a red flag to us -- why did we let them get away with grouting only part of the floor at one time? Live and learn. It was a gray color grout. So they came back a week later to do the rest, only the grout didn't match, even though the label on the box said it was the same color! It was noticeably different, like pale gray compared to charcoal gray, and on the same floor! They also used it to grout the entire bath area, which had white subway tile. My husband and I worried about it overnight, fought over it, and finally decided to tell them it was wrong. They came and looked, and the owner agreed with us that it looked noticeably different, and he sent someone down to remove all the grout and redo it. It was a huge dirty job, and time consuming, but they did it. I'm happy. In the same bathroom, they laid the tiles on the ceiling over the tub in a crooked pattern, and it took us a while to notice why there seemed to be something wrong with it. This was 4x4 inch tile, so by the time you got to one end of the run, it was off by a whole tile! Again, we told them, and the owner made the tiler rip out the whole thing. This solution involved the contractor having to redo the framing over the tub, because it turned out the ceiling had been framed incorrectly. Talk about a complicated repair! But they did it, and it looks good and I'm happy. We also had trouble with glass tiles in the niches. They redid them once, and they still looked horrible. We ended up getting a whole new tiler (we told the old one it was fine, but in fact I resolved to do them over myself or hire someone else to redo them, which we did in the end). The new tiler did a fabulous job on the niches, but I will always worry that the waterproofing was compromised because they were redone not once, but twice. I'm just not gonna worry about it now. So yeah, stuff happens, even when you're there. But you'll feel a lot better if you bring the problem to the attention of those doing the work. If you're lucky, they'll fix it.I would always tell our GC, "don't you want to be proud of this job when it's done?'' And to tell the truth, he was responsive to my complaints, and now that it's done, he is proud of this job, as are we. Stick to your guns, and good luck....See MoreHelp Bill Vincent et al. Should I Remove Tile and Start Over?
Comments (9)Hello Karen, Sorry it took me so long to find this thread. Bill left a trail of breadcrumbs though and that's helped me along. :) So, from what I see in the photos it's a textbook Bay Area "single-coat mortar installation". He's got a moisture barrier of Aqua-Bar asphalt-impregnated Kraft paper and he's used 1" galvanized chicken-wire for lathe. His float looks to be a nominal 5/8" thick at the exposed edges and he's been pretty dang clean judging from the surrounding walls, so I don't think he's a hack. Now for the not-so-nice news. I can also tell from the photos that he's got quite a bit of lippage on those walls. It may be that those large porcelain tiles are not "rectified" (re-milled at the factory for flatness and squareness)and so he's made the best out of warped materials? Ann Sacks, and many other boutique showrooms, sell beautiful tile but it isn't always a guarantee that it's also flat or square. The best test will be to lay a straightedge across the tile (front and back each)from corner to corner and from side to side. Can you see daylight between the straightedge and the tile? Does the straightedge teeter and rock? If either of these is the case, then your installer did his job. If the tiles are flat however, he's ruined some very fine material. Without a better picture of the return-walls, I can't tell you why he chose the cuts he did. It may be that he allowed the niche's dimensions to dictate his layout, rather than the other way-round? All-in-all, it's not a terrible job and grouting may shine it right up or it may make things worse? A good grout job is like **magic** though so I think in this case I'd share your concerns with the installer and emphasize how much you HOPE he can make things better with a spectacular grout job. He should take the hint and screw his wizards cap on tight for the task. Best of luck, Shaughnn...See MoreHow to tile over tile - should I use a membrane between tiles?
Comments (6)I heard back from Schluter. Here's my question and their answer: Question: Can the uncoupling membrane be installed directly over existing ceramic tile? This is a basement - the tile is installed over the concrete subfloor. Tile is in good shape - just ugly. We don't want to remove it. So if the membrane can be installed over top, what type of thinset should we use to bond the membrane to the existing tile? Answer: If the following requirements are met, we expect this type of installation to be successful. However, given the wide range of potential existing conditions, this application is not covered by a specific detail in the Schluter-DITRA Installation Handbook and is therefore not covered under warranty. In principle, DITRA can be installed over existing tile. In general, the following minimum requirements must be met for a successful installation. The substructure must be adequate, per the DITRA Installation Handbook (e.g., joist spacing, plywood thickness, etc). The existing tile must be well bonded; any loose tile must be removed. The tile must be cleaned before the DITRA installation to remove any bond breakers. The DITRA can be installed in a similar fashion to what is called out in detail D-V-T in the DITRA Installation Handbook. (I looked this up, and it's referring to installing over vinyl.) Option 1. Use a rapid-setting modified thin-set mortar suitable for bonding to existing tile to install the DITRA Option 2. Skim coat the tile with a modified thin-set mortar or suitable cement-based embossing leveler, allow it to dry, and install the DITRA with unmodified thin-set mortar For further details please see attached Ditra installation Handbook...See MoreChromatic
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