Yes. We went on a two week cruise. The dogs were at boarding. During this time, the remediation company did the tear out, repair and replacement. It worked out beautifully. We had used this company previously. So, we had a pretty good idea of their work standard. I'm a control freak and they met my comfort level. Prior to departure, I had a meeting with the foreman. We discussed the project thoroughly. I placed an order on file with their preferred tile supplier in advance. I also left the tile setter a document with illustrations explaining what I wanted. They texted me pictures of the progress. It went really well. They did a great job with clean up. I couldn't be happier. We decided to go with a reduced project. We did not get into changing the countertop or flooring. We didn't get into the bath surround, either. When they did the tear out, it would appear that we discovered the leak very quickly. The Advantech flooring base had gotten wet, but was not soaked, or damaged. The tile setter advised us to keep it in place. He was afraid if he cut it out and replaced it, we would have cracking around the base walls very quickly. The material appeared to be in really good condition. We went with his recommendation. What we ended up doing was trimming the entry surround in the same manner as the other doorways in the room. Originally, the surround was made of tile. I thought the transition to a different tile would be too jarring. Thus, the doorway trim and base trim in wood painted to match the rest of the room. I think it works. I only have two complaints. One, the shower seat is narrower than it was before. It's really not much of a seat anymore. But, it works as a shelf and place to shave your legs. Two, the new tile wasn't quite as thick as the old tile and the shower door doesn't seal quite as tightly as before. It's acceptable, but not perfect. I had them take down the huge sconces over the tub and not replace them. I'm going to buy new ones to replace the old ones. I'm going to apply Rub and Buff to the lights above the sinks to tie them all together. The biggest improvement was the removal of the gross green walls. We painted them Sherwin Williams 2017 Creamy. It's a huge improvement. It's amazing what a coat of the right paint can do to update a room. Why did I not go for a full renovation? We have decided that our tenure in this house is only around five years. It didn't make sense to pour a lot of money into the bath. We would never get it out when we go to sell. This is plenty good enough and very functional. New doorway surround and paint job. New tile. We kept the old shower door, grab bars and shower controls The tile is a 12"x4" white porcelain subway tile with a bit of a relief. It doesn't get any simpler than hexagonal tile in white with white grout. We used an upgraded white grout that does not mildew throughout.

This thread is actually really old but I felt I should mention something different bc I did not see this as a possible solution for those who are trying to remedy the problem of sheen damage to their cabinet doors. Rubbing a dull sheen when cleaning can buff up the sheen making that area noticeably stand out with high sheen spot. Just as a door with a higher sheen can be rubbed with a more abrasive material or chemical this can have a lowering of the sheen effect. In either case a good approach to this would be first to ensure to prep the surface before applying any type of sheen corrector on it . !st Best way is to first use a damp cloth mild soap and water (Dawn is a safe brand to use) to remove sugary film or grease residue on surface. 2nd Once clean and dry you will want to lightly sand with a super fine grit 2000 sand paper the area so that the sheens both shiny and dull are fading into each other. This will make it easier to coceal when you touch up the area. 3rd Identify what kind of material is used on cabinets. It is important because if the product your cabinets are not catalyzed what ever you use can have an adverse reaction to ti. For instance am uncatalyzed poly or an oil enamel finish will not be able to be touched up with a clear lacquer spray , reaction could make the finish crinckle and lift. To ensure this does not occur it is best to test out a small area . Preferrably the back of a drawer front for a reaction prior to using a clear lacquer spray can. 4th Choose to spray the back of a door to get the hang of sheen blending by first lightly sanding with 2000 and then lightly spraying that area . Choose the appropriate sheen level by Using a easy to spray touch up spray can like deft or valspar Clear Lacquer Matt, Satin , Semigloss or gloss, spray a light coat starting from one end of the AFFECTED AREA TO THE OTHER. These spray coating are very light and thin making it easy to blend into finish. If you are not satisfied with the first pass . You may need to hit this area again , keep in mind of blending your mist coat so that it basically disappears into the original sheen. Practicing on the back of a door is important to do so you can have the confidence and experience to hit the faces of the doors to be corrected.

The structure of furniture will usually be under warranty for so many years, but fabric never is (maybe up to a year at most), because they don't make the fabric. Fabric quality has gone downhill in recent years, so you can't blame furniture makers. Even when the quality was excellent, they only warranted it for no more than a year. The reason it's pilling is because of the fabric content. Synthetics, like polyester and cotton blends (usually with synthetics) are the culprit.

Unfortunately, the only way is to sand it. The good news, they can sand it with 120 grit. I would advise against using Nordicseal and NaturalSeal over walnut, because of the white pigment. Unless, it is the look you want. In that case, apply two coats with a light buffing in-between coats with a double maroon pad and 220 grit sanding strips. Single coats will cause trouble like you have now. Instead, use Classical or Intenseal for a rich natural wood tone. I preferably would go with 2 coats of Intenseal. A light buffing in-between coats with a double maroon pad and 220 grit sanding strips. This will ensure a good seal and a good film build, when applying the Traffic HD. Extra matte would be my ideal sheen.