Leggy/Too Tall Chinese Evergreen
riru zone 10a
7 years ago
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Embothrium
7 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Nursery Stock in too-tall Pot, Roots too brittle; Graft?
Comments (3)Hi - Depending on the trees in question and their size, there are a 1,000 different pots out there of differing quality and material... many of which can be called 'bonsai' pots, many of which may not be, but may be suitable for early training of your trees. It is not necessary to stuff a narrow rootball immediately into a shallow pot, but such things are done over time (years) and how to do it requires some learning about root pruning, etc.... not something you would normally do in a day. Please try to provide more info on the type of trees, their size and the pots in question... I'm not sure root grafting (which you've never done in any case) is the way to go in the circumstances. One thing you might consider, depending on the type of tree and how it normally grows, is a 'cascade' pot that's tall and narrow, and part of the tree (e.g. juniper procumbens) is trained over time to hang down over the edge of the pot. This post was edited by moochinka on Thu, Jul 31, 14 at 18:00...See MoreTransplanted Chinese Evergreen curling & discolored! Help!
Comments (57)Whether or not you should/shouldn't fertilize during the darker months depends on how you water. If you water so you're flushing the soil regularly, you should fertilize all year long. If you're using a soil that doesn't allow you to flush the soil whenever you feel like it for fear of extended periods of soil saturation limiting root function or wrecking root health, and you're watering in sips to prevent those issues, it might be the least of two evils to water in sips and forgo fertilizing, but it's not a good choice. Better, would be setting in place a plan that allows you to both flush the soil and fertilize at intervals during the fall, winter, and early spring. If it was my plant, my plan, and it's good to have a plan you can stick to, would be to nurse the plant through the winter and repot next June into a soil that allows you to water so you're flushing the soil whenever you feel like it. That will give you plenty of time to learn enough about soils so you can repot into something that will work FOR you, instead of against you. Most of the problems that bring growers here looking for help are actually soil-related. FWIW - I flush the soil of my plants EVERY time I water, and I actually fertilize EVERY time I water with a weak fertilizer solution all winter long. I'm not saying that because I follow that regimen you should too; but, I am saying that the way I grow is so easy it's hard to get it wrong unless you work at it. Also, if you're using a soil that allows you to water correctly, there's little worry about over-potting or moving your plant to a smaller pot. With the right soil, you could use a 55 gallon drum full of soil and in it plant the smallest of seedlings w/o worry about root health due to 'over-potting'. Al...See Morechinese evergreen elm is losing leaves - any advice
Comments (5)In general, I would like to be able to tell you that you cannot overwater, being in the dry SW. But generalizations get one in trouble and since I'm not standing there looking at the situation, I could easily lead you down the wrong path. So, a couple other thoughts: First, has any construction work been performed in the general area of this tree recently? I see thin foliage at the tree's top and that is often a sign of root system damage. So, has any heavy equipment been in the area, any holes or trenches dug for anything? Second, if you would, take a close look at the bark up and down that portion of the trunk you can see from the ground. Look for tiny holes. some insects lay eggs in trees, usually just under the bark, and then when the larvae hatch and later pupate, they form exit holes. These holes are often shaped like the letter "D" but not always, and can be quite tiny, depending on species of insect. Now I'm not saying there is a borer of some type working the tree over, just that we want to be able to rule that out. Any other signs of symptoms? Any small piles of sawdust-looking material at the base of the tree? I'm still mining (bu dum bum) the same territory-that of borer insects. But that does not mean your tree has this problem. Finally, assuming no insect issue is identified, please refrain from blindly applying "some pesticide" to the tree, in the hope of somehow magically hitting the right target. It just doesn't work that way. Tree pests are often quite specific in their tastes, so one really needs to know what they're dealing with. Do pay attention to water management though. This means that if things are too dry in your locale for proper tree health, it may be time to water, keeping in mind that a tree of this size has roots running all over the place, not in some neat little bundle right next to the base of the trunk! One really needs to water the yard to water their trees. Refrain from any fertilizer use as that can stress the plant out even more. Then let us know what happens down the road. +oM...See MoreMy chinese evergreen keeps up curling and turning yellow
Comments (8)Hum, I would like to slightly disagree with the wonderful suggestions above: Yes get rid of that plastic bag/pot that came with the plant, I would also remove dead plant material (as suggested). But I think it might be suffering from the soil being too wet, at least down below. I would at the least remove it from the pot and see how dry or wet the root ball is. If all seams well down below ( ie not damp; of course this implies when you do this that the plant was not watered recently),if all is well down below then the above recommendations would apply- but I suspect that you'll find some rot at the bottom of the pot. If there is rot, remove it. If there is rot, consider repotting at this time. Light, the picture seams nice and bright. These plants like bright indirect light, so I don't think it needs to be relocated unless it is much darker than the picture shows....See Moreriru zone 10a
7 years agojamilalshaw26
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoriru zone 10a
7 years agojamilalshaw26
7 years agojamilalshaw26
7 years agoriru zone 10a
7 years agoDenise Maselli
2 years agoDenise Maselli
2 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
2 years agoRuss1023 (central Fla)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 years ago
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Russ1023 (central Fla)