Hello, i was hoping someone can help me with a delimma i am having with my Ikea Sektion cabinets. As you can see in my picture, the drawer front on the left does not come all the way down to cover the rest of the base cabinet like the other two beside. The runner is all the way to the bottom, I’ve tried turning the little screw in the drawer but it doesn’t lower it enough to cover that white part at the bottom and I have installed the fronts according to the instructions. I did call Ikea trying to explain the issue and they said it could be a ”quality” thing and nothing can be done. But why would other cabinets in the series not be like this?? if anyone can help that would be greatly appreciated!! i am getting very frustrated and just want that little white patch covered.

The answer, is "it depends". You may need them for clearances. The Electrolux ranges for instance need a bit of a filler and a cover panel. This is where you have to read the appliance specifications. You do not need them for counter support though, if the rest of the design properly provides for that. Any exposed cabinet side needs to be finished with cover panels, and that thickness needs to be accounted for in the design. Any uppers adjacent to a hood will have exposed sides. If exhausting is not possible, and you are left doing a recirculating vent, I'd urge you to choose a hood both wider and deeper than the cooking zone below. You want the best capture area possible since you will not be able to exhaust the effluent.

Hi everyone, I'm working on my first Ikea kitchen and need some guidance. I'm dealing with "blind corner" wall cabinets (as recommended by Ikea) that are formed by installing two cabinets at 90 degrees to one another rather than using a proper 45 degree corner cabinet. In two cases, I have a 36" wide wall cabinet that intersects with another cabinet mounted to the perpendicular wall, forming a corner. As Ikea recommends, I installed a cover panel where the two cabinets intersect, so that each of the two 36" wide cabinets has a single 21" wide door. I uploaded some pictures here to help explain: https://imgur.com/a/I7URY First, I will need to install some narrow strips cut from cover panels that serve as filler strips. Does anyone have any suggestions on how exactly to mount the cover panels, given that they can't simply be screwed on from the front for various reasons (including that there's no framing to screw into, as well as aesthetics). The strip is roughly 2 and 3/8" wide. Second, is there a way that the single door on the the 36" wide cabinet can be mounted so the hinges are NOT mounted on the exterior edge of the cabinet? That is, so the door would hinge near the centre of the cabinet, and the hardware would be near the edge of the cabinet? I've read other posts that suggest this might be possible but I don't see how. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

When it came to our IKEA/Barker kitchen, I have a mix. The exterior of our island and exposed side of the fridge was wrapped with MDF shiplap, which we got from a big box store and painted ourselves. For the toe kick, our plan is to start with IKEA’s Lerhyttan line (and their decorative feet), and build from there. We need to test paint, and see how it looks over the existing finish. The benefit of using a stock IKEA toe kick is that it installs easily with their feet, so if we can make it work, we want to. As far as side panels and filler... well, I’m torn. I would lean slightly toward Barker, but only if you have a large enough order to qualify for free shipping. Otherwise, I think the price of shipping would skyrocket, because the pieces are so big. The benefit to using them would be that they would match your doors... the paint would adhere the same, the thickness would be comparable, etc. If you use IKEA panels/fillers, the slight downside would be a question of whether they will take the conversion varnish the same as the bare doors. I wouldn’t be opposed to building using raw lumber, either. Which isn’t super helpful, I know, but I wouldn’t rule anything out. I think they all have pros/cons. (And I think it’s ludicrous to expect $8-$12K. I’m about $2k, and I have a very large kitchen.)