I made the bypass. I just walk into the hardware store and envision what I need. No list. That particular one I made of all 1/2 pvc. So, one would need 1/2 pvc pipe, a ball valve, two T couplings, two slip x male threaded elbows, and two female threaded unions. Plus primer and glue. To fit mine to a hose, I needed a 1 male and 1 female hose connecter to pvc adapters. Just make sure that one of the last pieces in place is a section of pipe from a T to the ball valve. In other words, put the injector in place, and then determine the length of the final piece of pipe between the ball valve an a T. The blue one in the photo I posted above was 1/2 inch, identical to the one you provided a link to. Significantly larger than the smallest mazzei. The best price I was able to find on mazzie injectors was the source they linked to on their site. Kisko Sales Playing with the 283 Saturday, I started to time how many gpm flowed through it, and how much it would take up, but someone decided to start a shower in the middle of filling a 5 gal bucket, so the flow rate changed with the pressure change. I didn't have time to start over and move everything over to the secondary irrigation source. But I did note that the flow exiting my hose may have been less than 1 gpm, and the suction rate was very high. Much higher than I expected. Emptied 1/2 gallon in a min or two. As I mentioned above, I definitely need the bypass to slow down the uptake rate, and provide reasonable flow for a hose end shower sprayer. Late Sat I was able to get it all setup with diluted sulfuric acid, dial in the bypass, and now my water coming out of the hose is a pH of 5. Perfect for the blueberries I need all this for. You only need the cheaper poly propylene. I got one PP and one NPVDF. I will use the NPVDF when I setup the acid on an automated irrigation system, not this portable hose setup where I am using more dilute sulfuric acid. I donâÂÂt know that I need the NPVDF, but it does have higher chemical resistance and heat resistance, so when IâÂÂm using more concentrated acid in the irrigation setup, I wanted the more durable NPVDF to last longer. The mazzie salesman I spoke with convinced me there may be enough heat creation with concentrated acid injection that the NPVDF was a worth considering. For fertilizer, PP is more than adequate.

I use both. We have a large property. The bamboos are rather thirsty plants and do better with soaker hoses. My garden beds are densely planted - drippers are not a viable solution - if something were to go wrong, it would be a nuisance hunting for the source of the problem. So soakers go in there too. I use drippers for containers and also for spot irrigation of plants that are isolated from the main beds. Some of my soakers have been in the ground for 10 years, and are still working fine. They are not supposed to last that long, but with annual flushing and the odd repair jobs, I have not had to buy any new soakers in the last 3 years. Do not use the tiny 1/4 inch soakers - they do not work well, clots up easily, and can't be repaired. As for the drippers, I use a type of dripper head with completely adjustable flow, from zero to up to 13 gallons per hour. Lee Valley Tools sells them as B. & D. Shrubbler Spikes, and bought in bulk packages, they are the most economical I can find - at abut 75c a piece. They are supposedly the most used drippers in commercial applications. At 30 psi of pressure, and maximum flow rate of 13 gph, it throws out a circular spray covering 360°, to a radius of as much as 2 feet. Turned down low, it acts as a slow dripper. It is this flexibility that is the next most appealing feature. I do not have to select different drippers with different flow rates for different sizes of containers - something which turn out to be a real pain with fixed flow drippers I had used previously. I use them for containers as big as the 20 gallon box to the small 1 gallon nursery containers. The adjustable flow rate also makes it simple to deal with variations in flow and drops in pressure down the main supply line. The third appeal is that it will never (and i do say never)block permanently since the spray head is controlled by a screw cap that can be removed completely for cleaning. coverage. The fourth reason I love them is that they are tough and durable. Except for about 1/2 dozen where the inlet pot has been snapped off by an over zealous gardener (me!), the 200 or so scattered in my garden are all working well inspite of neglect and occassional abuse (by my lawn mower!). The othe advantage is that it does not seem to suffer frost damage - as long as the system is well drained and the caps are then screwed on tight. They come on a 6 inch spike - which is another reason I love them - they are difficult to lose. I manage to get by with a 6 station timer. The beauty is that once set, I don't have to do anything except a weekly inspection. I also use a siphon device to feed soluble fertilisers down the line. Keep in mind that if you want to do this, make sure that you have a reliable back flow preventer valve in the circuit.

Since when has it become so customary to assume that every one's priorities and expectations must so closely mirror one's own? I'll say and do many things because the ability to actually think, to see obverse sides of questions, is disappearing. Right and wrong are rarely black and white. I can think of many reasons why a person would want to install an irrigation system of some kind: It enhances home value, can make a home easier to sell. If one has extensive landscaping, the cost of installing and maintaining an irrigation system is but a fractional cost of the potential replacement price of that landscaping...call it cheap insurance. You happen to live in area that just doesn't receive much rainfall. Yet if one considers themselves to be such a plantsman and someone suggests an idea they don't agree with...oops, sorry, there's only room for one ego in this place...and the rest of you are going to burn right next the devil, Dr. Mike Dirr. My suggestion for irrigation: Unless you like to tinker and fix things, find someone local to help you out. Most irrigation systems are relatively trouble free, but like anything else in a home, there's always the possibility of needing to fix things. It's mostly pretty simple, but there's always something that needs tweaking: A spaghetti line pops off the barb, an emitter gets broken, a rodent chews a line, some water somehow was left in and the line froze, you sliced through something with a shovel. Most of these are easily fixed and require minimal tools and less knowledge or experience, only the willingness to deal with it. The longevity of these things is most likely going to outlive you, or at least your ownership of that property. Most plastic breaks down due to exposure to sunlight, and the whole idea is to bury the lines, however shallow. My best advice would be to keep the spaghetti lines short.

Hi Teeka: I just recently installed a drip/micro system and still have some of the receipts. Our home came with an inground sprinkler system but in the interest of saving water and selectively watering flowers, I just installed the drip system. Initially I bought 1/2" poly with in line drippers. However, it's stiffer and I found I had gaps because the "bends" had to be large to make turns, etc. But, all is not lost. I've since bought regular 1/2" poly and drippers and misters to use with it. Where there's a gap that I want to remedy in the in-line dripper system, I've just added misters or extra in-line drippers and am happy. I'm using components of the "Mister Landscaper" system available at Lowes because there is a Lowe's very near me and, as expected, I've had to run back there for "more" of various parts. Ignoring the poly with inline drippers, let's say I started with just regular 1/2" poly (which is what I did convert to). I ran this from my water source around my house just laying it on top of the ground (my beds are along the house). I didn't want to blow out the drippers because of high pressure and wanted to keep the line clean so the drippers wouldn't clog, so at the head of the line I installed a filter (about $10) and a 25 PSI pressure regulator ($7.56). Whereever I wanted to water a plant I either installed an inline dripper ($7.56 for a package of 10) or a stake assembly ($3.13) with a small full circle spinning mister ($3.77 for 5). The stake assemblies are above ground and come with a small amount of 1/4" poly so you can attach them to the 1/2" poly feeder line. There were places where I needed more 1/4" poly line than was provided on the stake assembly so I bought a small roll of 1/4" vinyl tubing (? price) and connectors (again, receipt gone) to extend the secondary line and place the stake where it was needed. The stake assemblies do not come with any type of mister so you must buy these separately. There are various types (depending on the spray pattern you wish). The one thing I did which I would advise against was being too quick to mulch so as to "finish" the job. It's easy to see where the elevated misters are watering because the mulch is wet. But the inline drippers and their wet area are covered by mulch so I've had to probe through the mulch to find the drippers and see where it's wet. I should have waited on the mulch, run the system and evaluated the water pattern, corrected whatever needed correcting, and then mulched. I did not attach a timer to the system, thinking I would just turn it on when the plants needed it. However, now that I'm going to be away for several days I'm sorry. I'll revert to the regular in ground system to keep my garden alive. When I return from my trip, I think adding a timer will be in the cards. Home Depot also has these type systems from DIG corporation. Their web site is http://www.digcorp.com I also read that irrigation supply stores have components for drip systems. I didn't do comparison shopping. I hope that the gas money I saved by only having to go to the nearer store, compensated for whatever I may have saved elsewhere. June Here is a link that might be useful: Mister Landscaper