being the king of cheap.. i like free boxes.. lol .. and being the prince of 'i will do it later' .. years later.. lol ... the box will recycle itself into the soil ... presuming the neighbors dont start mocking me.. lol .. or in the alternative.. should the box dry in spring.. and blow off the stakes.. well.... when i turn a corner on the riding lawnmower and obliterate it.. i call it lawn fert.. lol .. aka compost ... no downside here.. lol ken BTW .. had this all occurred much earlier in the season.. you could have filed the box with some light fluffy oak leaves .. for added insulation.. though i am not sure you need that in z7 ... but not leaves that will wet down to a gelatinous pile of goo .. and smother the plant ... [maple]

...potting up some Nassella tenuissima, grown from seed. It's a great grass. It doesn't have to be in full sun. It can get by with light shade as well. It's best in a spot that gets some breeze, because it has such a hypnotizing movement.

I'd wait until spring. Warm season grasses like Miscanthus enter a period of root dormancy in late summer or fall which makes dividing them late season somewhat problematical. Since the roots are not in active growth like they are with many other plants at this time of year, it is iffy whether the division will take over the winter. For best results, I'd wait until late winter or early spring when new growth begins and you typically do your cutting back for the season. Ditto with your proposal to snag a clump of J. blood grass from the restaurant planting in another thread :-)

Q: if you are planting it between two trees, how far apart are those trees? And what kind? A: they aren't evergreen trees so technically the whole view won't be blocked in the winter so I guess I don't need this to be an evergreen. I don't know what types but would people here be able to identify them if I took pictures of the leaves? Also, do you want the distance between the trunks or the branches? I estimate the largest hole/gap when the trees are in full bloom to be about 10 feet apart (that's one branch tip to the other) abd it decressss higher than that (maybe 20' above ground). I can measure trunk distance if that helps Q: Ken is right, if you have the space Norway Spruce is among the fastest growing evergreens that resists wind and snow load,. A: how much space would I need? Q: White pine is usually not great as a privacy screen because it loses lower branches...but if you are trying to screen a (presumably second story) bedroom window, that wouldn't be a problem. And it grows pretty fast. A: I have an 8' fence and yes second story bedroom, so the bottom branches aren't a problem....how tall would the tree likely have to reach before the branches are all gone below, maybe, 10'? I'm guessing many decades if not longer?! Q: Was 40-50 feet your intended eventual height or the size you expect the tree will be when they deliver It? A: just suggesting how tall other trees are currently in the same space, and that would be a max height for me to target for this tree after a few decades. I'm trying to buy this tree at a lower cost so I'd guess a small tree is what I'd need to purchase, right? Q: Watch out for trees that have been left in pots too long and have girdling roots, though. A: how can I check for this please? thank you!!