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Post germination plan (Zone 7a/b, TTTF)

7 years ago

Based on some replies to a previous post, I'd like some guidance on a post germination plan.

Last year I did a total renovation and got good germination - I will repeat those steps this year. My failure was in the post germination care. I ended up with plenty of winter weeds (poa annua mostly, and some others Im not familiar with). The summer, despite 2 rounds of dimension at the right times, was full of crabgrass. Everything is going to be killed again.

On to my proposed plan - please critique and/or offer opinions or changes.

1) Tenacity @ seeding (early-mid sept). My understanding Tenacity will help with the early germination of winter weeds.

2) Starter fertilizer at seeding.

3) Additional fertilizer (not starter) in mid Oct and Nov.

4) Pre-Em - Prodiamine after grass has established well. (~6-8 weeks after germination)

5) Winterizer (I read mixed opinions on this).

6) Prodiamine early spring. Followed again in late spring.

7) Fertilize early-mid spring (Milorganite)

8) Post emergent as needed (2,4-d, tenacity, DriveXLR8 or 2,4-D with quinclorac)

9) Milorganite Summer & Early Fall

10) Hopefully grass is in good shape - overseed in fall.

Featured Answer

User

7 years ago

Do one app of prodiamine at 5-6 month rate for the whole summer. Chances are if you do two you will apply too much and you won't be able to overseed in the fall. Skip the early spring fertilizer and fertilize early May, then no more fertilizer until the cycle repeats. Fungus is a big issue in zone 7. Consider getting on a preventive fungicide plan starting May.

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Comments (7)

CEZ
Original Author
7 years ago
Bump
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CEZ
Original Author
7 years ago
Are you suggesting to not do a fall prodiamine treatment? Or just saying do a single application in the spring in lieu of 2 to cover the summer?

What is the reason to skip the fertilizer early spring?

Ill look into the fungicide... its not something I've considered,

Does the rest of the plan look about right?
User
7 years ago
Are you suggesting to not do a fall prodiamine treatment? Or just saying do a single application in the spring in lieu of 2 to cover the summer?

Do a single app instead of 2.

What is the reason to skip the fertilizer early spring?

No reason to push top growth at a time when the grass naturally goes through its spring growth flush. It may also impact root development and carbohydrate reserves . The fall fertilizer and winterizer will carry it through.

Does the rest of the plan look about right?

Looks good to me. Where are you located?
CEZ
Original Author
7 years ago
Thanks.

Located on the southern side of Raleigh, NC.. putting me on the border of zone 7 A/B.

Last year I had good germination of a total renovation but coming into spring everything was thin and never took off. Of the grass I did have, the blades stayed thin unlike what you would expect from a healthy fescue lawn.

I did NOT follow a strong post germination fertilizing plan which I think may have been the main contributor of a thin weak lawn through winter and into spring.
User
7 years ago
I'm a little west of you in Greensboro. Definitely look into fungus control, it's the main killer of fescue lawns around here. Also, when you do seed, put down 8lbs of seed per thousand. More is not better, the plants will be crowded and will stay thin and weak. I did that to a spot a few years ago and it turned out like doll hair.
justinva
7 years ago
I'm west of you in Martinsville, VA and also had awesome results from overseeding last fall, but made 2 mistakes which I will remedy this year:

1. No pre-M in fall, which resulted in massive Chickweed bloom that I had to battle into late spring. I'm adding Tenacity at overseeding and a pre-M 6-8 weeks later as well.

2. No fungicide in spring, which resulted in large Brown Spot outbreak in May and killed a lot of my new grass in the back yard. So, next April-May (when nightly temps hit 70F), I'll be putting down a fungicide.

I like your plan and agree with the above posts. Good luck and pray for rain soon!!

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