Owlnsr's 2016 TTTF Renovation
owlnsr
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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owlnsr
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I need lawn renovation help in Zone 7/8
Comments (9)That's odd, I have Cincinnati, OH listed as Zone 6a/6b (you're right on the border). Regardless, Ohio is completely compatible with bluegrass if that's what you want. You may or may not. Personally, I consider bluegrass to be the grass against which all others are measured--and found deeply wanting. But that's because I'm willing to put in the time and effort to optimize performance. And money, let's not forget the money. Bluegrass has absolutely terrible drought resistance, but phenomenal drought tolerance. Or, it wilts quickly and has to be watered, but survives drought very well by going dormant and simply waiting it out. It's the most demanding of the northern grasses in terms of feeding, and really objects if you give it less than 4 pounds of nitrogen per thousand square feet per year, delivered just the way it likes it (small amounts in late spring, large amounts in fall). In terms of disease and insect resistance, it's about average. However, planted as a single species (a monoculture), any disease it's susceptible to will run rampant. That's why we suggest multiple cultivars with different resistances to counter that. Planting a single cultivar (a monostand) is asking for trouble (but it can be done). Properly managed, it's an intense green with blue overtones (mine throws blue topaz highlights in sun that, regrettably, don't photograph at all well), a strong grower, and capable of filling in any holes without much additional encouragement. It feels like carpet underfoot. Improperly managed, it's a sickly yellow-green, grows weakly, and gets patchy. Just like any other neglected grass. Plantings are slower to develop than other species, and sprout far slower than most others, so you have to keep after the watering on the seed bed for far longer. If that's what you want, and you're willing to put in the effort, I'd suggest Midnight II, Prosperity, and Moonlight SLT cultivars for you if you want the darkest colors and excellent performance. Award and Bedazzled are two other suggestions, but the Bedazzled won't be quite as dark a green. If the idea is kind of daunting, fescue and ryegrasses are easier to manage but do require occasional overseeding in fall....See MoreOverseeding NJ lawn with KBG
Comments (23)Well, your problems only have some chemical relationship. I didn't mention it in the corrections, but magnesium is probably a slight (very slight) culprit in your soil tightness. There's not much you can do about it except wait for it to dispel itself, although the recommended gypsum might help a little bit. I mention a few things below, and recommend a few things to put you into the "perfect" groove, but there's really only one major correction to make--phosphorus. So I rode that to the top. The secondary correction, dispelling the sodium (and also raising the calcium a touch) is just below that, but it's really optional. Phosphorus 116: On the low end, 200 would be the target here. We use starter fertilizer, any brand, to raise this. Just get the cheapest, they're all in the same ballpark. Phosphorus levels have no impact on soil hardness, but do influence overall growth and penetration of grass roots (and growth of the top). Sodium 2.1%: A bit high, which is riding your pH up a bit. Grasses won't have any trouble tolerating this, although other sodium sensitive plants may start having issues here and there. While sodium will harden a soil, this isn't that excessive. Combine that with... Calcium 64.4%: Just fine, really, and it doesn't require adjustment. However, a little more won't hurt, and we have to raise this to dump out some of the sodium. We can use gypsum (calcium sulfate) to lower sodium and raise calcium at the same time, and you don't need much. Gypsum is available at most landscape and gardening stores, and I've seen it at Home Depot. Gypsum won't influence your pH--except perhaps, in this case, to drop it a hair as the sodium dispels. Sodium is an extremely alkaline ion. The rest of the stuff: ME 7.7: This implies a sandy to silty soil, almost certainly a mix of the two with minimal clay. Adjustments can be in decent quantities, and the soil will tend to stay stable for decent periods of time. OM 5.2%: Firmly in the Good range, so you don't need to add organic material on any emergency basis. Certainly I'd always mulch mow, mow your fall leaves, and consider organic feeding, but this is not an emergency. Larger amounts of OM will tend to loosen and lighten your soil. Sulfur 12: Normal, with plenty of margin to accept the gypsum. Magnesium 19.3%: While a significant excess, this isn't a major problem. It can make soils tight and hard, but your amounts really aren't that excessive. Still, no magnesium is required, and avoiding magnesium sources until this drops back into the normal range is a very good idea. So when lime is required, don't use cheap dolomitic (lime with magnesium in it). Avoid Epsom salts on all plants. Potassium 4.9%: Perfect. No potassium is required, although you don't have to specifically avoid minor potassium sources. I actually prefer a slight excess of K. Minor Elements: All fine. I wouldn't mind giving boron a minor tap, but it's so minor I'm not going to bother. I do mention iron below. Iron 163: Fine, really. This certainly isn't deficient, but if you want to raise this (very slowly) for better color, feed with Milorganite. Over the years it'll slowly lift your iron number. Recommendations: September 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. September 15: Apply 10 pounds per thousand square feet of gypsum. October 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. Memorial Day, 2016: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate....See MoreLawn renovation (again), please help
Comments (75)I'm not sure, no bermuda lawns around here. I never really noticed the 200 sq ft bermuda patch that invaded my TTTF ever turning brown, but at the time I didn't pay too much attention to it because it was a "weed" not bermuda. It does not snow here and the only "frost" we get occurs 2-3 times a year and melts off the car windows by 0900. Our estimated 1st frost of the year is November 21 and last is February 21. So I would presume I should know more around the 1st-2nd week in November. Some info I have read states that keeping it watered and fed can put off dormancy for some time. I will keep updating and we shall see what happens....See MoreHelp deciding on which TTTF blend
Comments (9)I prefer to buy locally to support the small businesses here. Moreover, I want to ensure that I will have the ability to drive down the street and pickup another bag if something goes wrong with the seeding (and for future overseeding). I pulled out the latest NTEP report for Tall Fescue --- from 2015 --- and filtered it to only show me the VA records. There were 116 cultivars in the report; the trial site was Blacksburg, VA. This is the same city as Virginia Tech. Raptor III was the #1 with a rating of of 7.5. Firecracker SLS was #54 with a rating of 6.5. Titanium LS wasn't on the report. It's successor, 2LS, was. FWIW, 2LS was ranked #8 at 7.3. I don't think I can reliably use that. Jonathan Green/Cascade Seed doesn't submit their cultivars to NTEP. So, I don't think I will have any useful or objective means for deciding.... Other than the Virginia Tech recommended lists. (Keep in mind that Virginia Tech runs the NTEP trials in Virginia.) Below, I've broken down the cultivars according to the 2015-2016 and 2016-2017 VA Tech recommendations: Black Beauty Dakota 15-16: recommended 16-17: recommended Tonto 15-16: n/a 16-17: promising Montana 15-16: recommended 16-17: n/a Southern Belle Raptor III 15-16: promising 16-17: promising Titanium LS 15-16: recommended 16-17: n/a Firecracker SLS 15-16: promising 16-17: promising So, without a real solid & objective method for comparing, I was hoping the community here might want to weigh in?...See Morebeckyinrichmond
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