I dunno. What is "bagged organic mix" anyway? I'm guessing manure is a very high component, whatever it is.

I've been having success with lightly screened (1/2" chicken wire) compost mixed with some leftover peat moss, and fine bark. I put some rough diatomaceous earth in one. I don't know if the de did anything. The twigs help keep it from getting too compacted.

Supposedly it's bad to have too much compost in a garden, but I think the main reason is that it absorbs a lot of water and can become boggy. Not usually a problem in a raised bed.

Failing that, the el cheapo $2 a bag "garden soil" stuff should work just fine. Just don't expect it to carry on without amendment year after year.

I took a photo of what we almost bought, bagged, at the nursery...

EB Stone Big Harvest Garden Soil.

I didn't look at the components.

But the more I watch videos and read articles, the more confused I am about what kind of soil/dirt/whatever to put in there to start with. And if I want an organic garden, does that mean I need organic soil? Or just good quality non-organic soil.

My brain is in a whirlwind.

All soil is organic, but some soil is better than others. How big will that raised bed be? How much soil will you need to fill it? Maybe, rather than bagged soil from a garden center you need soil from a landscape supplier, but that soil must be looked at closely.

What you want is a soil mix that is about 45 percent sand, 25 percent silt, 25 percent clay and 5 percent organic matter, or something close to that. Optimal levels of organic matter in soil would be in the 5 to 8 percent range. While most soils I have looked at over the years have been very deficient in the amount of organic matter I have also seen some that have had too much organic matter (compost is organic matter) which does present other problems. While soils should be evenly moist too much water causes a lack of air in the soil which roots need to uptake nutrients just as well as water and too much soil moisture can cause root rot.

kimmq is kimmsr

First, as kimmq mentions, soil itself is organic. However, some soils have additives that are not organic. The most ubiquitous example is Miracle Gro Garden Soil - it is NOT organic. Now though, even they sell an 'organic' option under the brand name, Nature's Care - to my knowledge, it is organic.

As others have also said, depending on the size of your bed, the cheapest option for 'garden soil' might be to find a landscaping supplier.

The good thing about what you seem hoping to accomplish, is that you may not have to buy soil at all. Like your first beds, you just need soil. Any mineral-based soil will do for that purpose. The mix that kimmq describes is a nice, loamy blend. If you find someone who is excavating, depending on your regional soil characteristics, you might be able to get a similar native mix from where they scrape the surface. One of my neighbors just had a Bobcat crew dig a spot in their yard. It was just the top layers, and more than likely, it would be absolutely perfect for garden use. They carried off the soil, probably to be dumped on the bottom of some low area where someone is looking for fill dirt.

So, check with landscape suppliers, but if you have a 1/2 hour, give a few excavators a call. They may be in your area, and if they can dump locally, they save time, and for an excavator, every hour saved is almost $100. They are often glad to dump close by the job.

No Mel's Mix?

Trying to not spend a million dollars on dirt though...

Our local landscape supplier has Superblend, 50/50 mix, and Veggie Mix. Not really sure what's in any of them. Meant to call today but missed thei open hours by 45 minutes. :(

They also have screened topsoil, premium organic compost (though not certified), Forest Humus, mushroom compost, and horse manure.

Ugh. I really wanted it to be as easy as buying some bags and dumping it in. Guess it won't be I guess.

"No Mel's mix?"

Not me. I personally see building walled-raised beds as a waste of time. the only exceptions, for me, are areas without soil (like a concrete patio,) or areas that have some other impediment. So, to answer your original question...

"What do all of you use for an organic garden?"

I garden right in my native soil and make adjustments with organic amendments. The beds 'raise' all on their own from tilling and additions of compost, organic matter mulches, etc...

Building a box on top of perfectly fine native soil, then bringing in bags, or trucking in soil (aside from the exceptions mentioned) is, in my opinion, a colossal waste of time, work, money, and resources. But that's just me.

Landscape suppliers selling soil mixes use all kinds of exotic names for what they sell and most mean little in reality. What is "Superblend", "50/50 mix", or "veggie mix". What you want to know is how much sand, silt, clay, and organic matter is in those mixes. Look at the stuff before you buy it. Far too often here people have ordered what the supplier said was what they needed only to find the stuff was not what they really needed. Buying soil is a good example of "Caveat emptor", let the buyer beware.

Once again, Miracle Gro garden soil is not soil. It is organic material, closer to potting soil than anything else.

kimmq is kimmsr

kimmq... I think you missed the point about Miracle Gro... the point is that regardless of what is made of, the OP is looking for organic options. Miracle Gro is an example of a bagged product, called soil, that is not organic. It has synthetic additives.

The OP even mentions Mel's Mix. It is not soil, but it is an acceptable option for their purpose of filling a raised bed. They do not seem to be concerned about the existential debate over what is, or what is being called, soil. Unless I misunderstand, they seem to want to fill their beds with an organic growing medium.

I understand the point you are making about what does, and does not fit the dictionary definition of 'soil', but the marketplace, whether we like or not, is redefining terms. I too think it fine to use the correct terminology, but not everyone is looking for the primer and/or a debate over definitions. For those who are... fine and good.

That said, your point about learning what constitutes any medium is a good one. And if the OP learns the correct terminology so as to better direct their questions, then use the info to find a medium to fit their purpose... even better. But like I said, even if it does not have a mineral base, there is no way to be specific about Miracle Gro Garden Soil, without using the word 'soil' - that is the name of the product. If you want to write them a letter and ask them to remove the word soil from the name, have at it.

It would be so much easier if 'organic' didn't mean two entirely different things: 1) derived from living material, as in 'compost is an organic soil amendment' and 2) free of synthetic or chemical additives. The latter, I prefer to call Organic to distinguish it.

I don't know if anyone mentioned it but even the national Organic Farming standards do not require that all compost or other organic matter used on an Organic farm have to be made from Organic ingredients. In other words manure from cattle that were treated with hormones or antibiotics can be used. The standards seem to recognize that the composting process degrades the vast majority of those residues to the point where they are not an issue for the garden. You will probably never find an Organic compost unless you make it yourself.

Tox has pointed out why many of us do not accept the standards established by the USDA's NOP. They are simply too lax.

There are people that apparently become confused when trying to distinguish between organic (as in chemistry) and organic (as in gardening) while others do not have that problem.

kimmq is kimmsr

<You will probably never find an Organic compost unless you make it yourself.> That would be my choice. Make a compost bin from a ring of wire fence, place it in the bed, and compost right there in the bed. Which is what I started doing last year.

Absolutely. It's a well known fact that you can make better compost than most of the products you can buy, and it's free, and you know what went into it. Unfortunately sometimes people have to buy some for one reason or another.

Well we don't have compost on hand and I want to get this bed filled so I can get fall stuff planted this year.

So I called up our sand/gravel/dirt/rock supplier and found out what these things are:

superblend is a mix of 3 kinds of compost plus sand

50/50 mix is 50% topsoil and 50% compost

veggie mix is Superblend + topsoil.

Of course they also sell as separate things: premium organic compost, forest humus, mushroom compost, and horse manure...and a bunch of different kinds of sand.

Then I always have access to big box stores.

PLEASE help me figure out a good combo of what I need. I can't do this!

I understand that it can be overwhelming. Like I mentioned earlier though, I'd have checked with an excavator. But... hoping to get a fall garden planted adds time constraints

So, first, compare prices.

I personally don't care for adding sand. If they don't get the mix right, sand can make things worse than there being no added sand. However, if they get the mix right, it can be beneficial for good drainage. One of the problems in offering recommendations without being there, seeing and feeling the soil, is what has already been discussed... this idea of 'topsoil' is too ambiguous. Some products sold as topsoil are incredibly good stuff. Some is horrendous.

I think I would look at the 50/50, check the texture, and ask them where they get their topsoil from. The 'topsoil' may already have a sand component. Mushroom compost can be good. Horse manure can be good if it's kept out of the rain, but it can be contaminated with pesticides - you need a guarantee.

Forest humus can be good, but where, and how do they source that? Premium organic compost sounds nice, and hopefully it too is protected from the weather. Is that what they use to make their mixes?

So, I'd go and look at what they offer. Get your hands in there and feel it. Compact each mix in your fist to make a fairly tight ball, then poke it with your finger. It should be easy to compact, but also break apart easy when you poke it. If it doesn't compact into a ball, it has too much sand. If it doesn't break apart when poked, it probably has too much clay. 'Smear' it between your fingers. Is it gritty? Does it smear like a clay
would? Does it have a silty texture? Silt is like sand, but much finer
grain, and doesn't stick as much as clay would. Silt is easier to see
when the soil is very dry. The compost should smell earthy and have been screened.

So, while I understand that it's overwhelming, it's difficult to give recommendations and feel comfortable with that responsibility without seeing and feeling the soils in person. Maybe spend an evening looking up videos of soil types and the simple texture tests described above. Without years of experience, it's the best you can do on short notice.

First, I'd keep away from the packaged products from the big box stores.

I like the idea of contacting earth moving people. You could get good stuff this way AND it won't cost a lot.

If you go to a landscape supplier, look, rather than listen. And feel and sniff. Then make your choice based on your own feelings. I wouldn't choose manure. Manure is good if you are building up your soil or garden beds over time, but not for a spot where you want to be planting vegetables very soon.

So to sum up, my vote is (in order of preference):

1. Contact earth-movers

2. Investigate choices at landscape suppliers.