Anyone having a problem with fungus gnats?
jersey21
7 years ago
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jersey21
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Problem with fungus gnats in fittonia
Comments (1)Here you go.... Here is a link that might be useful: life cycle of fungus gnat...See MoreFungus Gnats have taken over!!!!!
Comments (17)Hi, I'm new here and had a question about neem use. I have used it in the house on mature plants- it takes a while, but seems to work. I've heard about peppermint tea too- that is said to wipe them out pretty quickly. I have some in my small greenhouse- not many, but I don't want them to get out of control. I have seedlings in there too. So, my question is, can I use neem on seedlings? Should they be bottom watered with the solution? Is it safe to spray it directly on them. I use it now on my benches, but I really want it to go into the soil after the little bastards living in the soil (pardon my french!) Hope you can help! Tessa (aka dirtdigr) Visit me at... Here is a link that might be useful: Blunders with shoots, blossoms 'n roots...See MoreThe ever dreaded fungus gnat
Comments (62)I "believe" I've had success with a two part attack. I heat my plant water to 50C, and make a mixture that is one part hydrogen peroxide and 3 parts water. For really large pots, I would place the pot in a large enough bowl/saucer to hold water, and add water to the bottom to come up 2 inches, then water from the top with more of the 50C hydrogen peroxide water. Supposedly the bubble action of the peroxide is enough to kill off the larvae near the surface, and the heat of the water does too. I would always find dead whitish larvae on the outside of the bottom of the larger pots from the bottom watering. This has to be done continually, with all plants, over a period of a time. My numbers began to decrease, then all disappeared. Now I see a few back again, but I've been making nursery purchases, and keeping in the house because it is too cool to keep outside (coleus, potato vine, begonias etc). I just keep up with warmer water (now at body temp, and a smaller percentage of hydro peroxide, about 1 part to 4). Apparently, herbs and plants that have scented leaves to not appreciate this treatement, but I have not had one houseplant or outside garden plant die from it. I purchase the 3% mix from the local big box store, cheapest I can find if 1 litre/$2. Nearby reputable nursery purchases the 30% stuff (which would apparently eat the skin of your hand in seconds if applied! Yikes!) and apply a week solution to their plants for part of their bug control method. It bubbles as it sinks through the planting medium, and fluffs it up, sometimes too much, so the soil it puffed up like a muffin or cupcake would when done baking in the oven. So once I feel I've got the #'s of gnats under control, I weaken the mixture (1 to 4 or 5 water), then it doesn't foam up so much. I am now addicted to watering this way, especially the succulents in winter, gives them a drink but doesn't leave them wet for long, soil dries out faster. Summer they all get straight water. I also operate some indoor worm bins, and one know that one for certain is a breeding ground for those pests, so I keep it wrapped in a bedsheet that I change with each feeding. I freeze the sheet with the flies trapped in it to kill them, then shake 'em out on the deck or in the tub (winter) and rinse them away and start over. But in the general area of the house, except for the odd couple I've noticed in the past 3 weeks (due to not being able to say no to taking home bedding plants because it's too cold for them to live long in the Canadian Tire greenhouse here!) I think I've got a good handle on them. ~kioni~...See MoreFungus Gnats, can you bare with one more question?
Comments (17)Fertilizer choice won't have any effect on fungus gnats, just the plants. I disagree about using wilt as an indicator of when to water or as an attempt to get rid of FG's. About to wilt = healthy, actually wilted = extreme distress. As plants grow, they will use more moisture so the pot will dry more quickly, so a set schedule is rarely ideal. Drying at the top really won't help since the gnats will just use the moist soil at the bottom of, and within the center of the pot, especially if they are able to access the drain holes as mentioned. (Assuming your pots have drain holes. Do they?) The only bone of contention I have, a very minor one, with the excellent advice here would be that I wouldn't call a potting mix crappy if the only reason for that label is that it is able to support fungus gnat larvae. They need organic matter, so although it's certainly possible to have/make/(buy?) a potting mix without such, many people are perfectly happy with potting mixes containing such, either store-bought or home-made. Since fungus gnats are so easy to defeat/control/avoid, I don't find this one feature, seeing a few fungus gnats in small enough amounts that they do not bother plants or people, a significant enough detriment to call a potting mix crappy. (Please don't interpret this as arguing that FG's can damage plants, not saying that, just that a few seem harmless.) Some don't tolerate any fungus gnats, and I respect that, and support their efforts to get rid of them. Some may create a mix that does have organics but not of a type/texture that harbors FG's. As you learn, you can do the best possible job with what you can get and afford. Instead of overwatering, think under-drying and excessive moisture within the "soil" as the issue. I water many plants daily, if I feel like it, although they can go for a few days, some longer......See Moredevsense
7 years agoUser
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agomyermike_1micha
7 years agodevsense
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agojersey21
7 years agoUser
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agojersey21
7 years agodevsense
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agojersey21
7 years agojersey21
7 years agojinnylea
7 years agojersey21
7 years agojersey21
7 years agojersey21
7 years agojersey21
7 years agomyermike_1micha
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agojersey21
7 years ago
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