I have the CH-27 in the 30" width. It might have been me that mentioned the baffles are a little cheap. I guess I expected robust steel parts welded together like a true pro hood, but the baffles are actually stamped out of thin stainless material and then pop rivited together like a sandwitch. I guess I don't really know what to expect. They appear nice and they probably work as advertized. I guess they need to be thin to reduce the overall bulk of the hood. I have not had a chance to install it yet since I've been busy demo'ing the back splash and doing some electrical work for lighting. I hope to get it installed this weekend. I will post a review once I get it installed. I actually called Kobe after I received the hood because both of the filters were a little warped, one worse than the other, and they sent me two new ones. I just got them today and they seem fine. So at least they fixed the issue promptly. After I get it installed I'll post some pictures. Oh the CH27 can definitely be rear vented. I'm venting it from the top though.

We used a Tornado II by Zephyr. It's an insert that we built a hood around to fit my situation. I saved quite a bit of money by buying my insert directly from an ebay dealer that I bought almost all of my appliances from. (saving-u-money) is his eBay handle. I can provide more info if you want to compare prices. Here's a photo of my hood. Though not completed, you can see how a liner works. You can also download a PDF info from Zephyr that will give you a drawing, schematic, and other info that will show you exactly what you will need to do this. I love my hood. The photo online shows that they've redesigned it a bit. Mine actually looks like the Tornado III, but I know it was a II with 1,000 CFM. FWIW, I love my hood. It's a powerhouse and doesn't blow you out of the water. It's a solid whooshing sound, not whiney and tinney. My brother lives next door about 300' away. (We both have 1.5 acres.) He has called me before to ask, "When's dinner?" because he can smell what I'm cooking. My kitchen vent is away from his house, too. When I've told him that I'm not grilling and I'm cooking inside and not outside, he can't believe it. It has to be this powerful hood. Here is a link that might be useful: Tornado II

Crosspost w/ Appliance forum: Help with finding venting to fit my 42" copper hood shell Final attempt to salvage my 42" antique copper hood, before I give up and buy a stainless steel chimney wall hood or something: (see pix below) - I have this 42" wide antique copper hood shell - I am having trouble finding an insert that fits w/in this shell: mainly because the "lip" or "brim" of the hood is only 3", and most inserts need 4"+ (something about the ability to hang the baffle filters) - New idea of using external blower, so that I am not limited to a smaller/weaker cfm internal blower. - But does my setup allow for external blower? Hood needs to go up ~12" and 90degree turn left ~45" to go outside - How exactly does external blower system work? Is there a complete diagram? Notes: - Waiting for Mark from Tradewind to get back to me w/ ideas of what his engineers can customize - Broan/Nutone technician said they don�t have anything that fits my hood - Do I talk to a local HVAC person? What do I ask for? - One possibility is to reuse the old Tradewind insert that I have (w/ the mesh filters) attach it to an external blower???? I am not 100% attached to this copper hood, but I do like it. I like the shape and the fact that it is an antique and not some generic hood from the manufacturing line. But I could live w/out all the hassle/run-around. Really appreciate any ideas/help. As my friend Kristin (thrilledtoremodel) said, do not give up until you run it by the gardenweb. They are creative; they will come up with something! Thank you! Amanda Wants: - 900+ CFM (I fry, garlic/oil, fish, etc A LOT � need to remove the grease and smell). Yes, I could live w/ 600cfm (better than the 0cfm that I had). - Baffle filters (instead of mesh) Limitations: - Ceiling height = 91" - Option A. If I stay UNDER the ceiling, I have only 13.5" from hood top to ceiling bottom for transition piece + elbow ducting - Option B. If I go THROUGH the ceiling joist space, I gain another 7", but then I�m limited to 7-8" ducting (to go out the house) - Budget: cannot spend over $2000 91 height 36 base cab to countertop 29 countertop to hood bottom 12.5 height of hood Leaves 13.5" from hood top to ceiling bottom for transition piece + elbow ducting Old tradewind insert w/ mesh filters: My layout: hood is label "Pots/Pans"

The duct size is determined by the manufacturer of the specific unit you select but it is likely to be 8" round which will fit in a 12" dropped ceiling or soffit. A round duct is cheaper and more efficient but in such a short run you could use a rectangular duct to raise the soffit/ceiling a bit. The duct could rise vertically in cabinets and then run horizontally to the outside wall. Your kitchen designer can easily accommodate that standard detail. I've never seen a range exhaust duct installed in a wall. I can think of no reason for a remote blower unless the sound of the fan at the highest speed (rarely used except when something is burned) is seriously objectionable. Most people run these fans at the lower speeds to reduce odors in other parts of the house. In my experience a remote fan is common in a commercial kitchen but very rare in a residential kitchen. If you are going to use a fan larger than 400 CFM, you may have to provide an automatic make-up air system. that would only be worth it if you have a very large, high capacity, semi-pro gas range or the room is unusually large. I would not terminate an exhaust at a roof if I could possibly do it at an exterior wall. It's not a matter of efficiency but avoiding roof leaks and snow & ice in northern climates. I try hard to avoid all unnecessary penetrations in a roof because wall penetrations are easier to waterproof. I would do option C because it puts the termination away from windows and on a less important facade. Also, the ceilings/soffits can be easily built at 8 ft. from the floor and there would only be one 90 degree bend, and it might simplify the cabinet design. Be sure to get rid of the attic access hatch in the ceiling of the closet. You wouldn't be able to use it anyway and it is contrary to building code requirements.