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need help finding a kitchen vent hood for pro range

15 years ago

I need help finding a chimney style vent hood that will work with my 36" wolf pro range and the weird wall angles of my 50's house!!...I know there's a smart person out there that can figure this out...besides wolf, I've tried vent-a-hood and imperial...

height: kitchen ceiling height is 113"...my range sits against a (partial) wall that's 71"H..., so there's 42" of open space between the top of the wall and the slanted ceiling...the range is 37"H...add 30-36" for space needed between range & bottom of hood, so a few inches of the bottom of the hood will be against the (partial) wall or it will clear it...anything above the partial wall on the back side of the hood to the ceiling will be visable from the room on the other side of the kitchen at the open space above the (partial) wall, so it has to be finished on the back side

depth...range is 24"D and mfg suggests min 900 CFMs which require 10" duct...all 24"D hoods I've found don't have nearly enough CFMs...if I try to use 27"D island hood, the base hits the partial wall which pushes it out over the front of the range and makes it stick out into the room...someone will probably knock themselves out!...also, the vent won't be centered over the cooking surface to suck up smoke/steam

if that isn't enough to deal with, my house is post and beam and the cover on the vent at the ceiling max size is 21"W X 18"D or it will hit the beam

I think I need a 24"D hood capable of 900 CFMs, that can be hung from the ceiling and finished on all sides like an island hood, but the base is built like a wall hood (flat on back)

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Comments (5)

igloochic
15 years ago
Have you considered constructing the hood and filling it with an insert? Something either wood clad or in plaster?
sherilynn
15 years ago
We used a Tornado II by Zephyr. It's an insert that we built a hood around to fit my situation.
I saved quite a bit of money by buying my insert directly from an ebay dealer that I bought almost all of my appliances from. (saving-u-money) is his eBay handle.
I can provide more info if you want to compare prices.

Here's a photo of my hood. Though not completed, you can see how a liner works. You can also download a PDF
info from Zephyr that will give you a drawing,
schematic, and other info that will show you exactly
what you will need to do this. I love my hood.
The photo online shows that they've redesigned
it a bit. Mine actually looks like the
Tornado III, but I know it was a II with 1,000 CFM.

FWIW, I love my hood. It's a powerhouse and doesn't blow you out of the water. It's a solid whooshing sound, not whiney and tinney.
My brother lives next door about 300' away. (We both have 1.5 acres.) He has called me before to ask, "When's dinner?" because he can smell what I'm cooking.
My kitchen vent is away from his house, too.
When I've told him that I'm not grilling and I'm cooking inside and not outside, he can't believe it.
It has to be this powerful hood.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tornado II
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You can always turn down the heat you use. Assuming you are considering the eventual buyer of your place, the average schmoe will be impressed with a pro-style range and won't think twice about exhaust. Do you have "any" access to external venting? Reason I ask is that a friend who bought a unit in the JPM building across from the NYSE was given a strange setup where a chimney style hood vented into the "capture area" above the entire galley kitchen which then vented into the building's standard exhaust system. Yes, it's questionable, no, I have not experienced the practicality of it (do successful Wall St bachelors really cook?) but apparently it looked attractive to (or, more likely, was overlooked by) a buyer of a $2MM apt.
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I love the range Lizzie! We had and OTR microwave when we first installed the range. It would come on automatically every time I used a burner. I didn't even know it had a default to come on automatically (had been using it for 5 years), and EVERY time I turned on the range, the fan in the OTR started. We quickly decided that the OTR wasn't going to work and we had to get a hood. We actually have MORE room with the hood as it is only 10" deep (about 6" shorter than the microwave). But yes, we did have to get a counter microwave and put it in a corner. Are your cabinets already installed? I wanted an under COUNTER microwave, that hangs from the bottom of the cabinets and still leaves me a little bit of open counter space underneath, but they have to plug in inside the cabinet, and since we were retrofitting everything, we didn't have a plug in the cabinet.
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The duct size is determined by the manufacturer of the specific unit you select but it is likely to be 8" round which will fit in a 12" dropped ceiling or soffit. A round duct is cheaper and more efficient but in such a short run you could use a rectangular duct to raise the soffit/ceiling a bit. The duct could rise vertically in cabinets and then run horizontally to the outside wall. Your kitchen designer can easily accommodate that standard detail. I've never seen a range exhaust duct installed in a wall. I can think of no reason for a remote blower unless the sound of the fan at the highest speed (rarely used except when something is burned) is seriously objectionable. Most people run these fans at the lower speeds to reduce odors in other parts of the house. In my experience a remote fan is common in a commercial kitchen but very rare in a residential kitchen. If you are going to use a fan larger than 400 CFM, you may have to provide an automatic make-up air system. that would only be worth it if you have a very large, high capacity, semi-pro gas range or the room is unusually large. I would not terminate an exhaust at a roof if I could possibly do it at an exterior wall. It's not a matter of efficiency but avoiding roof leaks and snow & ice in northern climates. I try hard to avoid all unnecessary penetrations in a roof because wall penetrations are easier to waterproof. I would do option C because it puts the termination away from windows and on a less important facade. Also, the ceilings/soffits can be easily built at 8 ft. from the floor and there would only be one 90 degree bend, and it might simplify the cabinet design. Be sure to get rid of the attic access hatch in the ceiling of the closet. You wouldn't be able to use it anyway and it is contrary to building code requirements.
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I don't understand. You said "chimney style", which does go up a foot and then out. I used to have one. It was a reasonably priced ModernAire (yes, they make reasonably priced ones too). Are you looking for an undercabinet hood? Flat on top? Venting straight out through the wall is common, therefore rear venting hoods are common. Perhaps the models you're looking at have rear venting as an option? Have you read through the specs? You might talk to your appliance dealer about it and/or your HVAC expert. I know some people who have Trade-Wind liners and like them. I think they also make hoods. Have a look there, too.
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goldie5
15 years ago
What a gorgeous kitchen---fantastic backsplash!
weissman
15 years ago
If you're getting a 36" range WITHOUT a grill, you could easily get by with a 600 CFM hood if that makes your search any easier. The formula that manufacturers use to compute CFMs is usually overkill - you're most likely not going to have all 6 burners on at maximum most of the time. Also, if you go above 600 CFMs you may need makeup air which can get expensive.
alku05
15 years ago
If you decide that you don't want to do a custom hood and insert, then you want to be shopping for island hoods. Using an island hood will make it so the back side is finished.

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