I'm worried about buying a tree and finding it is impossible to dig a new hole due to the old roots. ==>>> ummm ... go dig a hole ... THEN GO BUY A PLANT ... just cut or ax out any dead roots ... or move your hole enough inches over ... to avoid any big roots .... starting the new hole about 3 feet away from the stump ... out to be about right ... personally.. i wouldn't go in the exact spot ... just too much work ... there is no rule.. you have to dig AFTER buying a plant ... ken ps: call miss dig about utilities if there is ANY chance of anything being under the ground ....

I bought my first ones at Humbers in Brampton. When I found out they have a large tree and shrub sale each fall, I decided to check it out and maybe get more. When they saw I was looking for Saskatoons, they directed me to a lot where they were selling big ones, at the same reduced price (forget how much it was, it was 8 years ago). They still have the sale each spring and fall. I'm now going back to get some Showy Mtn. Ash. Marg

Okay I got the response from the local extension office and here is the diagnosis: "The pictures of actual fruit are showing symptoms of bird damage. Grackles and Starlings will visit the fruit when about the size of a dime and peck, scratch and scar the fruit to cover themselves with citrus oil which serves as a mite repellent. Unless you cover the tree at that time of the year with a bird netting, there is not much you can do. See: http://www.plantanswers.com/citrus_damaged.htm . The brown spots on your apple leaves are caused by a fungus of some sort. Most any fruit tree can be sprayed with Captan fungicide solution. Follow the label directions. Also, even some of the healthy leaves are yellowing, which indicates nutrient deficiency. Several things can cause the symptoms: 1) lack of enough nutrients in the soil; or 2) a root system that is not pulling in the available nutrients because of drought stress, too much water, and competition from weeds/turf grass. Even the fungal spots on the leaves may be worsened by a nutrient-stress issue. First, you may want to check the soil pH and nutrient level by submitting a soil test. Second, remove all weeds/turf grass 18" to 24" out from the main trunk and apply a light layer of an organic mulch such as leaves, dried grass clipping (from grass that hasn�t been sprayed with a broad-leaf weed killer). Third, monitor soil moisture to make sure that the trees are not too dry, nor too wet. Also, dried leaves on a living stem is a good indication of soil/moisture stress. Dried/dead leaves on a dead stem may indicate a canker or gall or wood boring beetle issue. Call my office at 281-342-3034, and ask for ext. 7029 for a soil test bag and form. -Vincent Mannino" The link to the pictures still works if you want a visual summary of my issues. Thanks for the advice....

Wait until your Spring, when both your tree and the rootstock are actively growing. Ask your local nurseryman for a good rootstock for your area; get 10; then do 10 T-buds or chip buds; and if you do them carefully, you should get at least 2 or 3 to take. When they are strong and growing well, I would take out the old tree or leave it and put the new tree(s) in another place. You can prune the old tree quite heavily, if you want to save it; as long as the trunk is solid and healthy; it will grow new shoots. BTW, one of the reasons the oranges from the old tree taste so good is the age of the tree; the new grafted trees should produce fruit in a year or two and they will be "clones" of the existing tree. Be warned, though... fruits from the new trees may not taste as good for a few years.