There's already discussions about it you can find via search. Given the construct of the soil medium (of which there is little to no actual soil) it seems to be a high/constant-nutrient-addition method of growing in a well draining medium. Because the medium has little to no nutrient holding capability you have to keep applying nutrients. Also, because the medium has little to no nutrient holding capability it's hard to "burn" your plants with the constant additions. Some people (like me) don't like managing soils like this...especially with concerns about the amount of nutrients leaching through the amended medium. Some people like it...some don't...

You will only be able to get citrus trees from California growers, due to quarantines. Flying Dragon is the dwarfing citrus rootstock that is most talked about. Four Winds does not use it, they "may" use Cuban Shadock. I have three 30 year old citrus trees, each on unknown rootstock, though not "dwarfing". An Owari mandarin (HIGHLY recommended) that's about 12' high and 12' wide. More fruit than I could ever need. A navel orange that is about 16' high and 16' wide. Finally, a grapefruit that is about 16' high and 20' wide - huge. It's unlikely that you will know exactly which rootstock is being used if bought from a retail nursery, it will probably just say dwarf, semi-dwarf, or full-sized. Expect them to (eventually) grow larger than what you are told. Here is a link that might be useful: citrus rootstocks

As has been pointed out the CLM isn't a deal breaker - it's mostly an aesthetic thing. How young are the trees? How bad is the scale infestation? I'd be far more worried about the scale than the CLM. When I overwintered my trees last winter there was one that was difficult to get to so I didn't do a great job of spraying it or scouting it for scale or honeydew. It wasn't until the leafdrop started that I got in for a closer look. By the time I had the scale under control (imidacloprid) it almost completely defoliated. If the trees are young and the scale infestation is out of control and there are no flower buds then I would dose it again with imidacloprid (and remove any flower buds during the next few flushes to protect the bees - imidacloprid should never be applied before a flush or when flowering is expected). It does take some time for it to be taken up and you should be mindful of leeching when watering for about a week. You could also manually wash each leaf or use oil sprays or etc. I'm sure rhizo or someone will chime in with organic options. But do get the scale in check. --- Until recently there was zero scientific evidence of the role of imidacloprid in CCD. Note that the link above talks about the toxicity of imidacloprid to honeybees. It has been known for a very long time that imidacloprid is toxic to honeybees even in small doses. That's why every label indicates that it should not be applied when flowering is expected. The concentration in the plant drops with time. A whole host of insecticides are toxic to honeybees but are still considered (mostly) safe to use in terms of honeybees when label directions are followed. What had NOT (until about a month ago) been proven was any linkage between CCD (disappearing bees) and imidacloprid. There's a new paper from the Harvard School of Public Health to be published in June ( http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/news/press-releases/2012-releases/colony-collapse-disorder-pesticide.html ) that *does* appear to prove there's a connection to CCD even at very small doses. So yes, most neonictotinoids will likely be banned in the near future.

Hi Steve, I just responded to your other post. Leafminers won't hurt a thing, it's only cosmetic damage. Nematodes don't attack everything but sure love tomatoes and okra, if you want to try them in the ground you may get a few years before they discover your soil, the other option is the Post-hole method that some folks here use. For tomatoes either use a shovel or post-hole diggers and punch out a hole 24" in diameter by 18" deep, line the sides with newspaper and fill the hole with potting mix, NOT potting soil. By the time the nematodes do find the tomato roots the plants are usually at the end of their lives anyway.... Otherwise, you can always grow the maters in containers and the rest in the ground.... Like I said earlier, try to hook up with a veggie Master Gardener. Tom