It's unlikely that you have warm season grass. The reason it doesn't go dormant in the heat is that you're watering it enough to keep it green. The most common lawn grass for the Wasatch front is Kentucky bluegrass. A lot of "drought tolerant" mixes, especially cheap ones, have a high percentage of K-31 (sometimes called KY-31 or Kentucky-31). Stay away from these. Despite the fact that the name has Kentucky in it, it's not Kentucky bluegrass. It's a pasture form of tall fescue. It's very hardy, but it's wide bladed, grows faster than other lawn grasses and tends to get clumpy over time. Picking a time to seed is tough. You need to wait until the heat of the summer breaks and that may not be until some time in September. Then, you want to make sure you plant 6 weeks before the expected first frost, which is early October. Oops, only 4 weeks after heat broke. In the spring, if you wait for all the snow to melt, you'll almost certainly be planting too close to summer heat, so the grass won't have a chance to establish before the heat kicks in. I've had the best results with dormant seeding. To dormant seed, wait until just before the first good snow and seed at a slightly higher than normal rate. The normal freeze/thaw cycles and any snow melts will carry the snow into the soil. In the spring, the melting snow and occasional rain will provide enough moisture for the grass to germinate.

Have you looked into items and spaces that will make life easier once you move in? Such as shelves in the laundry room, where you'll put the kitchen garbage pail, etc. I wanted to dwell on this point a little more, too. That you should focus on setting up the INFRASTRUCTURE you will need. I love infrastructure--we often ignore it, esp. stuff like shelving, etc. Be sure you have hooks for brooms, enough shelves int he closets (in any closet w/ shelves, seriously consider adding ONE MORE shelf) Then, you can decide what you want to put there. "Gumball Rally" is what I thought it was.And that's a great philosophy for lots of situations. Gloria, we're contemplating a move down the block, and my DH was saying "no need to pay movers except for the piano and the couch; we can just carry it down." Over my dead body! We've got 2 kids, and 4 people's worth of stuff. Last time we moved, I nearly killed one of his friends (who was helping us but wouldn't listen to me) out of frustration. I told DH then, we are never moving ourselves again. It is just TOO HARD. And, that same friend moved, w/ DH helping, and he packed some, moved some, etc. It's VERY inefficient. MUCH more efficient to pack everything, truck it over in ONE trip (get as big a truck as you need), and then unpack. I suppose 4 doors away doesn't require a truck, but it'll use a handcart, and major packing. I've really learned mylesson from watching those friends. Pack everything before you move ANYthing.

Easy - seriously. Your lawn is in rather good shape compared to mine. I moved to a weed patch with about 10 square feet of real grass in 2014. Now there's upwards of 1,000 square feet of real grass. I'm going to give you the plan to convert this to 100% St Augustine over time. If you want something in a hurry, let us know and we can get you on a different plan. If you want an immediate lawn for a January wedding or something, the best grass is grown on grass farms in Wharton - just a hop, skip, and a jump from you, so it will be as fresh as can be if you want to go that way. Water it deeply about once a month starting now. Put out some cat food or tuna cans and time how long it takes your sprinklers to fill the cans. That's how long you will be watering from now on, so write down that time. My time is 8 hours, but I use extremely slow sprinklers (turbo oscillator). Yours might be as little as 20 minutes, so keep an eye on the cans. I'll put more about watering at the bottom of this reply. Proper watering is the most important part of having a good looking turf, so pay attention to this. If you want to have a St Augustine lawn, then raise your mower all the way to the highest setting. You have it on the lowest now. You can mow the weeds off in March and the St Augustine will catch up in April. For next spring I would not spray any weed control. Just having something green is much better than bare spots where the herbicide killed off the weeds. Some time about late March the grass will awaken. Once that happens it will leap out of the ground like it's on rocket fuel. Let that happen. Keep after the mowing on a weekly basis. After a few weeks it will slow down to normal growth. At that point, I usually back off to mowing St Augustine every 2 weeks. That allows it to get taller than the surrounding grasses. The tall coarse bladed St Aug will provide too much shade for the grassy weeds like bermuda to take hold. By July the parts where the St Aug is doing will will become very dense. St Augustine will spread about 15 feet per year in all directions, and uou have enough now for it to take over in one season. At this point I would use an organic fertilizer. I'm assuming you have not been on an organic program. Call your local feed stores to get their prices on corn meal, corn gluten meal, and alfalfa pellets. If they have corn meal for less than $10, use that. If they have corn gluten meal for less than $20, use that. If they have alfalfa pellets for less than $12, use that. Those come in 50-pound bags. The application rate is 15 to 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. I would apply by hand rather than a spreader. If you miss some spots you can always add more with organics. You likely won't see anything happen this year no matter what kind of fertilizer you use. This application is for next spring, but do it now. In the spring don't fertilize until Memorial Day. Trust me on this. It will cause more issues if you fertilize early. Really after this fertilizer drop now you don't have to do anything but water and mow in the spring until Memorial Day. On Memorial Day you can use just about any fertilizer you want. I like organic, but it's up to you. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

Do this... Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. Mulch mow at the mower's highest setting. If the temps get above 95 in the summer, let the grass grow up taller (don't mow as often). Fertilize with Starter Fertilizer on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving(ish). You might have to buy it now because it sells out, but wait to use it. You can also apply an organic fertilizer in addition. The two fertilizer types do not interact so this is a safe practice. Too late for preemergent now. Spot spray the weeds in April with Weed-b-Gon or Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer (or equiv). Give that 3 weeks to work before hitting them again. Some weeds seed quickly and will be missed with the first spray. You only need to moisten the leaves, not drench the soil. By following this care you will get into practice for your new lawn this coming fall. Fall is the best time to reseed. Wait until the summer heat breaks in September to seed and then do it right away. Write back in and tell us the condition of the lawn to see how to proceed (full reno or just overseed).