Siding, which way to go?
Pensacola PI
7 years ago
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Charles Ross Homes
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Carrier or Trane Heat Pump- which way to go?
Comments (3)Great Post! I am in your situation almost exactly. My first estimate came with a rec. of Carrier, Trane, or Bryant for the same type of system you describe. My guy went with Bryant as they are made by Carrier, but less expensive. He said no to Trane as I live in Florida but 10 miles from the water and he would have suggested Trane as it has aluminum coils which would have been better for rusting if I lived my the water. He is giving me your air handler but the Bryant Legacy 215A as I do not want a 2 speed compressor. Since my elec. bills are low, he said the extra money for the Bryant Preferred 16 seer heat pump would not be a good enough pay back for the outlay. Anyway my price is $6570...quite a bit higher for something that is supposed to be cheaper than Carrier. Any comments here would be appreciate. I have 3 more "salesmen" coming, and I know someone is going to add Rheem to the list. From what I've read about Rheem, you either love them or you experience has been so bad that you hate them. So to you question:what is the best variable speed air handler with humidity controls matched with a single speed 15 seer heat pump? Thanks. Lenore...See More2 tankless or 1 tank. which way to go
Comments (18)If you use recirc, the very best system made is the Metlund Design unit. Pricey, but it saves water and energy and will return the cost of investment regardless of which method you use to heat your water. By the time you buy and install that system you are a ways toward a second tankless, if you go that way. Based upon the lay-out of the home I think you should have two systems regardless of type And, you should plumb a separate return (recirc) pipe for each. Better to install it and not need it than find that you do need it and cannot do it. As well, there should be a conversation with your plumber about the lay-out of the system based upon use of the water heater. Reason being, he is going to plumb the house the way he thinks it will be used. You don't want your kitchen sink at the end of a long, large diameter pipe. Time, distance and flow rate are the issue. Tubing size plays into this too. If you haven't drawn water for a while the water will cool beyond hot used temp. If it is all 3/4" feeding a low flow faucet you can go take a nap before getting hot water. If your plumber is using PEX rather than copper be aware that the fittings have a "bushing affect". What that means is your 3/4" pipe is bushed down to about 9/16" and your 1/2" to about 5/16. It matters. Cross sectional area of 1/2" is .19 sq". 3/4" is .44. That equates to vol of water. Insulate with at least 3/4" insulation. I have been using tankless since 1998. Operation has been flawless AND I have never flushed the HX. Good water and good equipment. Your GC is going to select the lowest bidder to do your plumbing. I would suggest that you get involved in this decision. If you get a plumber who feels like Snidely about tankless he will be no good to you once the system has been installed. There are many in the trade like that. What you have to keep in mind is that excellent tankless water heaters have been available in the US for the past 15yrs. I represented the largest of them in the 6 New England States for all of that time. We did little but training on application, installation and service. Service training was a free full day hands-on tear down and service class. If a plumber comes to my class he is a better mechanic when he leaves. Over this 15 yrs many professional (?) plumbers have not bothered to get off their duffs to improve their skills. They rationalize this by telling you that the units are a problem. Is that who you want in your home? I just received the Houzz kitchen &bath survey and those over 45 tend to use tanks where younger folks more frequently go tankless. Interestingly, 45% of respondents forego a bathtub in the master bath. That surprised me. Snidely, while I respect your opinion on all the topics we post on, many of which we disagree on ;), I want to offer a caution on turning your tank water heater down when you are not there. Some see this as the "boy who cried wolf", but I do have a plumber friend in Colorado who almost died from Legionalla as a result of doing exactly this. It has worked for you, but you need to be heating that water to am minimum of 130 & 140 is actually better to kill the bacteria in your tank. Flush it frequently too to avoid sediment. Again, just a heads up!...See MoreOkna windows, which way to go?
Comments (10)You probably dont need new construction( nail flange) if there isnt alot of wood rot. The reason for a nail flange/ new construction would include removing all exterior and interior trim. If only using a nail flange and not removing interior trim, i see no point, a basic replacement would be just fine. Both are great windows. Great pricing for the 800 series. Good luck. This post was edited by mmarse1 on Tue, Apr 22, 14 at 9:05...See MoreWhich way does your go?
Comments (11)"DH said he put them on the only way they go" translates to "I got 'em on backassards, but I don't want to do them over"! lol Facing the sink, my hot water is on the left, cold on the right. I pull both towards me to turn them on..and back to turn them off! Hot has always been on the left and cold on the right..but the on/off hasn't always been the way they are now..that's how I know the above translation is right! lmbo...See MorePensacola PI
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