Thank you idrive65 for your reply. I just pulled up the carpet with a client who has begun a friend and we put a thin catalogue under the wood to be the floating material and it appears that there is only 1/8th difference in height of the two floors so I may need two T-Moldings and not one unless a reducer can be used there which is what I would prefer. I will call right now to see if I can order the 2 T-Moldings and the extra reducer and return them if I do not need them. I guess I need to know the length of the T-Molding. I will never order without a confirmed installer that I trust working with me again. Thank you CCoombs for letting me know that a good installer can work with me if I only order 7%. Now I am wondering if I should have more. I just stopped by my neighbor's home and she has reducers but her floors heights seem to be 1/4th inch difference. A few days ago her floors felt so hard to me since they were glued down. But today I took off my shoes and walked around barefeet on my tiles as I was measuring so when I was in socks on her floor, it no longer felt so hard and now I wonder if my idea of floating instead of gluing to be safe when my concrete floor was told to be dry, is a mistake and I should glue the floor? I don't want to seal the floor since it will add up the cost and time to get all the furniture out of all the rooms.

National Electrical Code 314.17 (B) Metalic & (C) Nonmetallic Boxes and Conduit Bodies. […] Where nonmetallicsheathed cable or multiconductor Type UF cable is used, the sheath shall extend not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.) inside the box and beyond any cable clamp. In all instances, all permitted wiring methods shall be secured to the boxes. 334.30 Securing and Supporting. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4 1/2 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) of every outlet box, junction box, cabinet, or fitting. Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge. Sections of cable protected from physical damage by raceway shall not be required to be secured within the raceway. (B) Unsupported Cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable: (1) Is fished between access points through concealed spaces in finished buildings. 300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage. Where subject to physical damage, conductors shall be protected. (A) Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members. (1) Bored Holes. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cableor raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members, holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 32 mm (1 1/4 in.) from the nearest edge of the wood member. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by screws or nails by a steel plates(s) or bushing(s), at least 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width installed to cover the area of the wiring. Exception No.1: Steel plates shall not be required to protect rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing. Exception No.2: A listed and marked steel plate less than 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick that provides equal or better protection against nail or screw penetration shall be permitted. (2) Notches in Wood. Where there is no objection because of weakening the building structure, in both exposed and concealed locations, cables or raceways shall be permitted to be laid in notches in wood studs, joists, rafters, or other wood members where the cable or raceway at those points is protected against nails or screws by a steel plate at least 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width, installed to cover the area of the wiring. The steel plate shall be installed before the building finish is applied. Exception No.1: Steel plates shall not be required to protect rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing. Exception No.2: A listed and marked steel plate less than 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick that provides equal or better protection against nail or screw penetration shall be permitted.

Ours was $3037.45. It is star fire glass (clear). If we had gone w/ non-star fire glass, it would have been $2763.17. It is a four-piece system, including a small piece on the half wall. This was the price paid on 9/28/2011, it included professional installation:

Thanks all. Bill: 3cm = 1.2" thick curb? (Must look great!) That's 2.5x the thickness of mine! Still I should be ok? (I'm near Boston, MA: these Carrara curbs are common (in stock) at many tile shops near me and they are only 1/2" or 3/4" thick. I'm not going custom.) Seems it wouldn't be too costly if - worst case - it cracked and had to be replaced? (I.e., if I hired the tile guy to come back. The curb is $100. I'm in a very high labor cost area.) No shower glass to remove/replace. And I realize the edges by the existing tile - we're using 3x6 ceramic glossy subway tile American Olean Brights - might get messed up a bit and that's fine. We're using Bright White grout to minimize issues on the walls. (Dark gray on floor.)