(1) Would it look best to have the bullnose tile end exactly at the outside edge of the shower curb? Or would it be better for it go a little beyond, for example, have the regular tile end at the outside edge of the shower curb and then the bullnose tile (which is 3" wide) extend beyond? I'll usually end the tile flush with the FINISHED outside face of the curb, but I have, on occasion, gone a couple of inches past that the contractor's (or owner's) request. (2) If I have the bullnose tile end at the outside edge of the shower curb, then the grout joint between it and the regular wall tile will likely be running either under the shower door frame or along the edge of the frame inside the shower where caulk will be applied. Is this a big problem in either scenario? Nope.

It's hard to see the pattern on the white tile on the site. If the white tile has a wavy pattern, and the floor tile has more of a xhatch pattern I wouldn't think those two elements would be happy together. In the first link, they paired the white tile with a wavy wood grain pattern which looks nice.

"...what is the BEST way to do this shower from scratch with waterproofing etc...." I think the "best" way to waterproof a shower is with a surface applied membrane. That would be either a foam tile backer board with a membrane on the surface, like USG Durock Foam Board or Schluter's Kerdi Foam Board, or something similar. OR Installing cement board on the walls, like regular Durock cement board or Wonderboard, for example, and on the face of the cement board installing a membrane. Membranes that can go over cement board can be sheet membranes (Laticrete Sheet Membrane, Kerdi Sheet Membrane, Nobel Sheet, etc) or they can be liquid membranes (Hydroban Liquid, RedGard, for example). There are others as well. For the shower pans or floors, each of those systems has a proprietary floor system, usually made up of a proprietary drain and a sloped foam floor tray. You can use those foam floor systems if you can match or move the existing drain location to the drain location in the system's sloped pan. If the drain location can not easily be matched to the foam tray, then an easy way is to do a deck mud sloped floor, and then use the sheet membrane used on the walls to cover the floor as well. For what it's worth, when using a foam board with membrane, or a sheet membrane over cement board, you know that the membrane is the appropriate thickness and as long as the seams are properly detailed, all will be well. When using a liquid membrane, it's up to the installer to get the thickness of the coating correct, and to insure that there are no bubbles or pinholes or thins spots in the membrane. What it really comes down to is finding an installer who uses one of these systems, who has experience with that system, and who FOLLOWS THE MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS when installing these systems. A lot of showers I do are custom sized. Often times I'll use foam board or cement board with sheet membrane over the cement board on the walls, and the floor will be sloped deck mud with sheet membrane over the sloped mud. [Here's an example[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/kerdi-shower-part-three-dsvw-vd~3906656) from years ago of a shower done with Kerdi sheet membrane over cement board on the walls, and Kerdi sheet membrane over sloped deck mud on the floor. Some of the photos are a bit silly, that's because they were staged for a magazine shoot. For showers, I personally prefer cement board covered with a sheet membrane or membraned foam board. It's a bulletproof system. Minimal wetting. A quick drying cycle. Great moisture control. With all that written? There's nothing wrong with 6-mil poly behind cement board on the walls and on the floor installing a deck mud preslope, a sloped PVC membrane with a clamping drain, and more deck mud to tile upon. There's just more opportunity for moisture to penetrate and to be held in those systems. In this day and age of tighter houses, better moisture control is key. That's why I prefer surface applied membranes.

Thank you all. Here's another question. One of the reasons we had to have the shower redone is because the original tile work when the house was build was not done correctly and we ended up with grout coming out and efflorescence. This contractor understood the problem and swore to us that the way he did the install that it would not happen this time because he did it correctly. We chose ceramic tiles. His words: "1) We will use rubber cement on the backer board which will alleviate any moisture being trapped on the backer board and tile. 2) we will use anti-mold sanded grout that will alleviate any mold growth or build up". He then offered to thirdly "3) seal the grout and tile with the coat of sealer. The third step really isn’t needed with the new tile and new grout formula." So, what do you all suggest? Is that 3rd step necessary or not? I'm really scared the efflorescence will come back w/out that 3rd step, or am I just being paranoid at this point?