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Help identify mystery "grass" taking over my lawn

7 years ago

Over the last two years I have been using weed and feed, etc. to get rid of broadleaf weeds, and thats been going fine. This season, about a month ago, this weed has been taking over most of our lawn gradually. I have no idea what it is, so I am not sure how to treat it mid season. Thanks for your help in identifying it. We are in SE PA, and have had a very humid/rainy period recently spurring this on. I usually only mow once a week, and at a decent height to keep weeds down. TIA for any help!

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Comments (13)

User
7 years ago
Looks like my lawn as well. Bermuda was doing good then this started to invade. I'm going to hit it with some Celsius WG that I have (plus I have other weeds it will take out if doesn't work here). Mine grows thick and stays moist, bogs down the lawnmower. Not sure what it is but its spreading.
User
7 years ago
Looks like japanse stiltgrass.
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Don't waste the Atrazine. Atrazine may damage certain cultivars of Bermuda during Spring, but it is a common part of Bermuda lawn programs in the southeast to control Annual Bluegrass during winter dormancy. What's more, the image looks more like a common Bermuda, which is less likely to be effected by Atrazine. If it is a small area, and you won't to avoid having it increase in size, use a product like Fusilade II. Fusilade II is used around ornamental landscapes and Liriope beds to kill Bermuda selectively and quickly. It works better than Round up at killing Bermuda, but is likely to damage the St. Augustine as well. So there again, it really depends on how far it has spread. Also, if you go that route, wait until the Bermuda has fully transitioned and again expect what ever St. Augustine is sprayed to die initially, and then fill back in from the surrounding turf. Here is a link that might be useful: Serenity Lawn Service
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"When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail." I think that came out wrong. I was not hinting at anything you said. I was setting up for what I was about to say. My hammer is corn meal, which in the organic world is recognized as a fungal disease preventer and cure. The nail is your yellow grass. When I see the yellow grass, I assume it is a fungal problem. I can see where that could easily be misinterpreted. Sorry. YES, you have to wait until late summer to reseed. Why? Well you don't have to but if you want good results, wait. Seeding now will give you a yard full of crabgrass right away and later on, any grass that did germinate will die from the heat allowing the crabgrass to fully take over. If you want to fix that for the future, you could seed in some Kentucky bluegrass in the late summer. It will spread to fill in weak spots where fescues do not spread.
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hawksster .
7 years ago
Even though the pictures may look alike, they may be completely different and call for different interventions. Texaslawnfight if you could start another thread that would be great. It will give us a better chance to follow along with both of yall. Since yall are in fairly different environments with different grasses combining info here could be dangerous.
User
7 years ago
I'll get more detailed photos and start a new thread. Forgot that ppl also have cool season grasses around here as well. I've always only had warm so what may work for mine doesn't for others. Thanks for the reminder.
andy10917
7 years ago
1000% sure that is Japanese Stiltgrass. The only selective post-emergent herbicide that controls it is Acclaim Extra (Fenoxaprop). The bad news: it's about $75-$100 a pint.
User
7 years ago
Fenoxaprop is also available as Bayer Crabgrass Control for $25:

https://www.amazon.com/Bayer-Advanced-704115-Crabgrass-32-Ounce/dp/B004OEUDLE/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1470439138&sr=1-1
hawksster .
7 years ago
Just read up on Fenoxaprop and it's supposed to be a good way to also suppress bermudagrass in Fescue also. J4c11 have you tried it for that purpose? They recommended the 6.59% concentration @ 0.46 oz/1k every 28-35 days , no more that 6 applications in the growing season.
User
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
I'm using fluazifop mixed with triclopyr. So far it's doing the job but it damaged some of the fescue too.
andy10917
7 years ago
The Bayer product is a Ready-To-Use product, and covers 5000 sq ft once. The Acclaim Extra product is a concentrate and covers 17,390 sq ft at a higher rate of the AI. The Bayer product is OK for a small lawn, but the protracted nature of Stiltgrass fights will go through a lot of RTU bottles.
wolfjo
Original Author
7 years ago
Thank you all for your input - this is extremely helpful. My lawn is broken up into smaller areas by the driveway, etc. so a few of the Bayer bottles will be my first try. Is this something that can be controlled by pre-emergents next season? If so, any recommendations?
User
7 years ago
Another option is Gordon Ornamec 170, it's cheaper than 2 bottles of the Bayer and will last you many years. It's also good for other tough weeds like quackgrass and dallisgrass.

https://www.amazon.com/Ornamec-170-Herbicide-32-oz/dp/B008MZQE6O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470488280&sr=8-1&keywords=ornamec+170

Yes, you will need to apply a pre-emergent. I recommend prodiamine, it will control this and most other weeds.
Robert
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Looks a bit like Japanese stilt grass, but I don't think it is.

On second look, probably stilt grass.
ejbell
7 years ago
Andy, using wife's account. I've been getting a proxy error issue when accessing a certain lawn related forum. that site still alive? sorry to bogart this discussion. didn't know how else to contact you.

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