Weed B Gon is what your need. You can also use Bayer or MSMA if you can find it. If you haven't fertilize your lawn yet, do it now. Don't worry about fertilizing the weeds, they will die after the Weed B Gon application. I suggest you stay away from those Weed and Feed products, they're not as effective as most people think. Find a Lesco/John Deere dealer near your and get some Dimension 0-0-7, a bag or Starter Fertilizer like 18-24-12, and MSMA if they have it. That will take out any weed in your lawn without harming your lawn. Keep in mind it has been very warm lately, July temperatures in April east of the Rockies. So if you don't get any rain or plan to water, skip the fertilizer all together and the weed control as well.

I mostly agree with maynard. I would wait a few weeks to start that plan. If a total redo is in your budget, spray with RoundUp to kill everything. Then continue to water on a daily basis to try and sprout all the sticker and weed seeds you can. After a week of daily watering, spray Roundup again to kill any new weeds you started with the watering. You can collect the stickers by dragging some fabric over it. Drag until the fabric is full of stickers and then scrape them off somewhere so you can collect them and burn or discard them. (I never said this would be easy). Continue dragging until you are fairly happy that all the stickers are gone. This dragging might be a superfluous step depending on your stickers. Down here in Texas the stickers will not come back if you have a dense lawn. After you have done that, it is best to run a vertical blade tool like a power rake, slit seeder, or verticutter to chop up all the grass and weeds that were there. Rake up all that chaff and compost it. Now you have a seed bed. Now is the time to flatten the ground. Do not rototill it or you will be facing an increasingly bumpy lawn for 3 years. Just scrape the hills into the holes and you are good. Scatter the seed and roll it down with a water roller (rented). Water the seed 3x per day for 5 minutes to keep the seed moist. Do not saturate the soil. Continue this until you get 80% germination. Rye grass comes up in a week. Fescue comes up in 2 weeks. Kentucky bluegrass comes up in 3 weeks. This little fact can be a problem if you have a triple seed mix and stop watering after the first seed comes up. Then all you would have is rye. When the grass is up and maturing, you can start to back off on the watering frequency and start watering longer. Eventually with a mature lawn you will be watering one full inch per week (when temps are above 90 degrees F), every other week (when temps are above 80 degrees), and once every 3 weeks when the temps are lower than 80 degrees). Fertilize with chemical fertilizers on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and, for you in SD, probably don' wait until Thanksgiving. Maybe Halloween for the final app of the year. These are timed so that you don't apply in early spring or mid summer. Or you can fertilize with organic fertilizer any day of the year.

You surely have oxalis --- it will bloom yellow & it's about the biggest pest known here in the SF Bay. Unless you want to completely start over again you will probably just have to live with it this year. The only options for destroying it in lawns usually cannot be used on newly seeded lawns. Trust me when I say spraying an appropriate herbicide is your only hope. I have lived with oxalis for 30 years -- even in open ground it cannot be successfully pulled. There are a thousand little bulbs, some almost microscopic, that break off. Ortho 'Weed-B-Gon' now has a version for killing oxalis and crabgrass in established lawns. Be patient. It takes a while but it does a pretty good job over time. Mix it to the exact directions: too strong might damage the lawn and it also can "burn" the oxalis so you lose the systemic benefits of it killing the roots. It will take days if not a week or more for the oxalis to show signs of dying back, depending on the weather, but it WILL work. You will probably be dealing with this over several seasons. Patience pays off with oxalis. Oh -- if your neighbors have it, you will get it again. It's very invasive in the Bay Area. Your popularity in the neighborhood may plummet if you've just sprouted a whole front yard full of the stuff.

First off, I would never put red clover into a lawn mix as they are sprawling massive plants which are totally out of place in anything less than a 12-16 inch tall meadow grass setting. Clover - use standard old white clover or better yet, one of the smaller hop clovers which are quite good lawn plants. Fescue - For God's sake do not use one of the clumping tall fescues such as KY-31. These can be a total disaster. If you must use fescue, use a fine leaf variety. Other - Kentucky bluegrass is a traditional mix with clover. It makes a very nice lawn alone with clovers in fact. A good clover-bluegrass lawn requires no fertilizer for maintaining, but in our area of acid soils, it does need occasional lime additions. As the lawn ages, the clover will build up a store of nitrogen, and start to overwhelm the grass. Addition of lime will get the grass going strong, so it begins to outdo the clover, and later, the cycle repeats. George