sarahw_tx....actually it the other way around, the one sweating is for the downstairs and the other is upstairs. I did get up in the attic this morning and noticed the sweating is pretty non-existent (just a little moisture). I am beginning to think that the humidity and heat of the day caused a lot of it, but overnight it cooled down in the attic therefore changing the "chemistry" up there. We shall see today. I think I will add some insulation today and see how it goes. If anyone has any other thoughts please keep 'em coming. Thanks.

Insurance--if you would have contacted them as soon as the water problem/slide would have happened they would have helped--would have had you move the mh or move it and fix the problems--retaining wall/french drain/drywell.maybe pour a concrete pad under mh--then move it back--but now--if you call your insurance agent--they will cancel the policy--is this a lost cause?? well no but will cost to fix so do you have the money to fix or cheaper to move---where to start--rats you are infested get professional help,they can be in the roof/walls/floors/duct work fix the moisture problem,dig out slide,retaining walls,a lg french drain all around the mh,put a vapor barrier then tackle on room at a time--remove the floor/ wall covering, clean out rats/bad insulation,remove mold the seal up the bottom of mh and the underpinning and replace the insulation/plywood/drywall--find out what is feeding the rats--outside dogs,their food will draw in rats and other critters--this job is a lot of work but very DIY and cost hard to say--we are doing a total gut of a mh and the drywall is running @ $ 6 sheet,plywood 10-12.insulation @9 bundle,add paint and trim--a 12 x 12 room avg 200 more or less depending on how many windows--a great time to replace windows with real house windows vs mh--look for deals window manufactures in our area have windows for 70 each for all sizes--it is easy to put other size windows in a mh --we just did it here is our current project,photos are out of order we could not replace the mh with a newer model due to zoning laws,if we removed them we could not replace here is the album http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=739392009803%3A541222773&sourceId=533754321803&cm_mmc=eMail--Share--Photos-_-Sharee Good Luck

jjam, Auto parts stores sell something that looks like a stethascope with a tube on the end for listening. There should be an access panel for the shower piping if there is a closet on the other side of the wall. Sounds like the piping was not installed/anchored properly. If you can see piping in the basement, try to slightly bang on the piping to see if you can recreate the noise. Shock absorbers or water hammer arrestors work best when placed between the last two fixtures on the longest run of piping. Air chambers were typically placed on the incoming main water supply line, but become water logged and require draining to introduce air so they work again. If the holes that were drilled for the water lines are larger than the piping, you can put a small piece of pipe insulation into the gap to avoid the banging. The big box stores also sell "J hooks" for supporting piping runs. Hope that helps, Dan Martyn

Jennifer and Tresw, Thanks a lot for your advice. In fact, we swam today in the pool, yeaaaahhhH! Well, not really swimming, because the water was cold, about 60F and because I let the garden hose running in fresh water for an hour to lift up the level, but as a side effect it got even colder... But the clarity is now great. It is amazing comparing to a week ago, when was a swamp... What a miracle. I got the 4 way test kit, as suggested by TRESW and the readings were not that bad. Chlorine was really really low 0.4-0.6, but Ph was just right 7.6 and TA was 80 ppm (could have been 70 ppm, but with the background coloring I could not really say). The leaks are really big issue though. I broke the cement around the skimmer and now I can see the top plastic of the feeding tunnel (about 3-4 inches deep down), and it has about 0.5 inches water. What is even more worrisome is that the water is about 2" above the pool level, which means that the walls are all filled up with water all the way to the concrete deck and it is overflowing from any crack the water can get through. Also, the lines around the concrete deck are wet, as I dug about an inch deep around and now water started amassing around. And this is on the other side of the pool... I am having a serious leakage, that is for sure. I will rent these days a power hammer from Home depot and I intend to break to pieces the deck. The problem is I have not decided what to do with the debris yet. Any suggestions? As for the dead animal, I am no longer worried. I cleaned, and shocked, and cleaned, and shocked and now I believe there is nothing left from it... I hope. I certainly will avoid any contact of the water with my mouth for the next month or so, but overall I think I am over this now :) Thanks for all support and advice. If something else comes out, please shoot. I am ready to make some pics and post them online for discussion. Best, Lubo