With the exception of a number of Asiatic varieties, nearly all maples, including Autumn Blaze and Redpoint, rapidly become a problem in small areas. Their massive roots make it very difficult if not impossible to grow anything else near them. If close to the new patio, damage to the patio will be an additional problem. You are in a difficult situation because presumably you would like the shade quickly. This calls for a fast growing tree, but fast growing trees tend to grow very large and produce massive root systems. Unless there is a particular reason for wanting a maple above all other possibilities, there are better choices.

No particular reason besides the beautiful display they exhibit in the fall.

Other suggestions are welcome for similar traits (shade canopy, fast grower, strong, max height and spread approximately 40-45').

how big is the yard.. rather than the patio??

favor us with a pic of the spot for best advice ...

frankly.. im thinking pergola ... and vines ... based on the dearth of info ... ken

Randy, any one of the Freeman maples would indeed serve your purpose. People here are just interjecting their personal biases-I suppose that's inevitable-but 'Autumn Blaze' or 'Redpointe' could both work for this. Also, please consider some of the hybrid elms. 'Accolade' is especially handsome, I think, and while not quite an American elm, still does have some of that tree's characteristics. A very well-shaped crown, larger leaves than some of the Asian hybrids, and at least some fall color. A most sturdy-looking tree.

thank you, Wisconsitom

After much reading last evening, might skip the Autumn Blaze and narrow my focus to Redpointe and October Glory. Seeing too many negative posts on Autumn Blaze and issues with splitting and too thin.

For the first few years I will do my best to protect the trunk by wrapping from Thanksgiving to early Spring.

My property is small, 120x60. From the back property line (fence line) I am 54' to the back of the house. The deck will come off the home 20', which leaves 34' of space. My plan is to position the Maple in the back left corner, which covers the morning sun as it rises and shines right through the back of the home. I understand the property is small, which is why my focus is relatively narrow on these trees. I also understand I will need to be diligent in pruning, both early years and mature, to ensure proper shape and keep it on the smaller side (since property is small). I have a good tree service, so not overly concerned with this piece, just need to sharpen my skills on pruning :)

My plan is to position the Maple in the back left corner,

==>> like most posts.. i presumed you wanted to plant the maple on the corner of the patio ... rather than way out back ...

so .. now that we are at the back of the yard.. knock yourself out ... not a patio issue ...

ken

Not sure what posts you're seeing with negativity towards 'Autumn Blaze' but my community has planted something like 6000 of these since the cultivar came to be. That's not something we'd do if problems were insurmountable. If you dig around here, one thing you will see yours truly discuss repeatedly is that this tree is not a plant it and forget it item.....not by a long shot. Significant leader training with a good dose of subordination pruning will be required in order to have a tree with a structure that is built to last. But that's no condemnation.

Understood, and I do recall others posts (from searches) whereby you did mention this.

So then, let me ask you this, what are your thoughts on the Autumn Blaze vs. Redpointe Red Maple ?

There is nothing wrong with 'Autumn Blaze', but there is nothing wrong with the generic acer rubrum. You may also want to look at sugar maple, seed grown japanese maples (generic green leaves, or norway maple 'royal red'.

thanks, wisconsitom

Appreciate the details. I take great pride in things I own, so would be up for the challenge in learning how to take care of the tree from day-1. I think my next step will be to find a reputable nursery that carries these maples who can safely delivery to my property. I'm in Union County, NJ.

Generic acer rubrum needs picked in the fall to get decent fall color.

Randy, since you're keen to learn (bravo!)...I would suggest seeking out the work of Ed Gilman at U of Florida. Ed does all manner of advanced tree research and his work on subordination pruning has set the tone for much of what high-end arborists do all across the land. I have no specific link, but somewhere in there, you should be able to find a lot of info.

that sounds great, maybe I'll have him fly me down to Florida for a lesson in real-time. I'm sure the wife would like that :)

Wait until January though!

The Acer rubrum cultivars introduced by the National Arboretum (Brandywine, Somerset, Sun Valley) should grow well for you in NJ, and they might have better pest resistance for you than AB and Redpointe. Both AB and Redpointe are somewhat susceptible to tar spot disease as well as various leaf galls, while the rubrums have better resistance to these. The 3 NA cultivars are also resistant to potato leafhopper damage, plus they are seedless.

In this region (upper Midwest) AB and Redpointe are popular because they grow quickly and tolerate our higher pH soils. The rubrums are relatively slow here, and they frequently develop chlorosis in our soils. But my understanding is that rubrums grow relatively fast in your region.

A local nursery quoted me this for a Redpointe Maple...

• 3” Red Pointe Maple (approx. 14’ tall) @ $350/tree.

Thoughts?

the larger the tree, the harder to plant and keep taken care of. Get a 5-6ft tree for $20 and it will be healthier, easier to care for, and longer lived.

I'm willing to entertain the risk.

If a healthy tree is transplanted properly, how much would you think I increase my risk by doubling the tree size (from 6-7' to 12-14') ?

There is a lot of bias against planting large specimens but I do it all the time. I'm 60 and frankly want to see the trees look like trees while I'm still around to see them! You can plant a big tree. Just do it when it is dormant, make sure that it doesn't have issues such as girdling roots or horrible scaffold architecture. Buy it from a reliable source.

Hiring a competent arborist (you want one that is ISA certified) - even if you only have a couple of large trees - and using the arborist as a consultant is very helpful. I have an arborist come every year for a 'walkabout' and we look at all of the trees - both big and small - to assess structure, health, etc. She gives me great advice and most of the work I can do myself or schedule when convenient. Paying her for an hour or so a year is well worth the price. Small problems do not become big ones.

if you are willing to throw in $350 go right ahead, I will save some of my money and wait 2 more years for something to grow.

If it isn't hitting home by now, I wonder...........So, the smaller transplant-in almost every case-will acclimate to its new site better and faster, suffer much less transplant shock, and in nearly every case, commence actual growth quicker than that big devil you paid so much for. Big tree moving is almost always some nursery in a panic to move some stuff that got away from them. I wouldn't do it.

Yes, got it :)