For $89.00 it seems a little cheesy. Make your own out of old windows and a box made from wood. I've had mine for close to ten years now and I honestly can't see something for $89.00 lasting that long. Mine is 7' x 3' and could be heated very easily but never tried to do it. I have less than $250 into my 12' x 16' pvc greenhouse. Hope that helps. Good luck.

Just another opinion. MW windows are certainly the largest supplier of windows in my area of NC. In fact, I've had 3 houses - 2 built in 1993 and ours built in 2009 - and all 3 were MW. Yes they are "no-name" but they are used on million dollar homes and are a decent window. On the 1993 houses - we sold both in 2009. There was one broken seal on a arched window - which seems to happen a lot (there were some marginal seals but all on arched windows). There was 1 rotten sash on each house. One we replaced for $50 - easily ordered from Lowes. The other we didn't. Both were all wood. The rotten sashes - one was very high and not painted regularly I'm sure. The other was in an area of the house that had a moisture issue in multiple areas. You'll find some complaints but my wife's and mine experience were very positive. And replacement cost was so cheap that even if we had more than a few sashed - it wouldn't break the bank. We owned the houses for a combined 14 years. We have 3 casements, something like 40 windows - all pretty big with transoms on some - like all the downstairs windows. 7 exterior doors (4 glass and not including the front in budget or count) - 3 were 8 foot. All wood windows with SDL in front. They are low e and argon filled. I think our total was $16k. Sure, they'll need paint. We had a difficult color requirement and wood was really our only reasonable option. Our door air blower test showed infiltration less than 50% of Energy Star standard. Anyway - just to give another option that is sure to be in budget.

Budge, THANK YOU. I think the window looks great with the tile and I'm going to have my contractor do the same thing. Did you use 6" bullnose on the inside of the window? I only ordered 3" but I think the 6" looks great. I wonder if I could use non-bullnosed tile on the inside of the window (run the same direction as yours) and put 3" bullnose on the outside, so that the grout line would be inside the window rather than outside...hm. I'd still need 6" bullnose for the top and bottom, but not as much. As for the bump in the wall, I went home and measured tonight and the brick does extend a good 4-5". SO, I'm stuck with the double bump. I think I am just going to tile over (to the ceiling!!!), inside and around the window and then start painting when I hit the bump. Thank you everyone for all of your help and great ideas - you all are the BEST!!!!

DH here...Thank you everyone for your suggestions so far. I'm here to fill in some of the technical challenges we face. The soffit over the stove/window/slider contains waste pipes from bathroom above and vent for plumbing. Wall between kitchen and FR with cut-out is load bearing, so we may need a post there to support the wall between LR and FR. Directly below floor in aisle between island and stove are the hot water lines from the furnace to the Kitchen/FR/LR. As Pam (ptyles) mentioned the ceiling in basement is open due to water leak when we moved in. All plumbing from sink/DW go into basement utility room with open ceiling. We would like to keep a door to the deck from the kitchen. We use the deck and grill a lot, so we want easy access to the deck. I do like the idea of putting the cooktop on the outside wall for venting. (we made a mistake in our last kitchen remodel with venting, and we learned our lesson). We keep going back and forth on island/peninsula. We were spoiled by having a 6' island with room for 5 seats in our last house, so we're having trouble getting past that. We're close though :)