I would look in the gallery and also do a search of the forum to see some of the colors not in the gallery. I have used BM and love it! I had one custom made for my bath and shenodoah taupe for my LR and olive branch for the bedroom Barb

It seems that the late 70s and 80s are figuring in importance in the design fashionistas world of NY (all the way down to Haring tiling) -- and obviously, quite a bit of color to go along with it. It is interesting to compare the viewpoints here with the SF house. Definitely fewer minimalists overall. I love the Thom Filicia study, around the desk area. (And not just because it is more neutral). Although, as a study, it is severely lacking in any storage to actually use it. And, this closet, with the wood lining the painted shelving unit... @jlc... I'm thinking Peacock is reinventing the look to keep the business cycling -- though I do think the black --- but I do love those elm drawers set in the black lowers by the range and the elm countertop. I am guessing the sponsors dictated his use of the range --- I think the place begs for a white or black range with brass accents. Nonetheless it is lovely. Peacock even mixes finishes on the same cabinet plane -- The text of the article describes the one room as "rose" -- I'm thinking we are all thinking more Pepto.

I have a master bedroom closet area along a wall that is bisected by the chimney chase of a fireplace on the floor below, making a his and hers pair of closets. This is a triple-wall metal chimney surrounded by firecode sheetrock on the inside, studs, insulation, and sheetrock on the outside, including an access panel. It eats up about 30 inches of closet length. For a 10-inch kitchen hood duct with significantly less fire and access restrictions, you would probably loose at most only 20 inches. Many things are possible if the house design is recursively adjusted to accommodate all of the requirements. Do not rush the construction until you are certain that you have met your needs; there will be enough surprises even after everything seems to be defined. If you go to equivalent rectangular duct, you may still need to bulge the wall or otherwise ensure that there is not too much duct restriction. Rectangular ducts of equal sectional area to round ducts have a bit more pressure loss per foot. This should not be your first consideration, however, because you can find a blower with a fan curve suitable for the duct design, even if the duct path is tortuous. As for all of your construction questions, I'll have to ponder them when I have time, if I can understand them. In any case, if cooking is an important part of your life, then ensure that the kitchen design and the ventilation design are given the attention and space that they deserve. Unfortunately, it seems that your framing plan is somewhat past the point of easy revision. For others reading this: Please, please, PLEASE look into and solve all of the kitchen issues before finalizing a design and signing a contract. Comments on your bullet questions: - ?run horizontal through floor joists? YES - ?use rectangular duct vent when necessary? YES - ?Is it allowed to run near/along side the gas dryer vent? Not aware of any restriction on the moist air vent (note dryer vent has to be metal also. However, care to allow access for both, and particularly for the dryer vent duct for cleaning, is important.) For gas effluent vent, that should be determined by consultation with the architect, code officer, or gas company tech. Note: given a gas dryer, we are now in the regime of not letting the differential air pressure at the dryer fall below 0.03 inches, w.c., and make-up air performance or sealing off the gas dryer from the kitchen air is another big part of the kitchen ventilation design. - Run down into the basement if it can't run up? YES, but less optimal than up - Exit through an exterior wall rather than roof? YES - Best to get it in the garage and up into the attic and then up out the roof? Don't know about best yet, but it is a valid option. - best to have the range on wall A or wall B (does it make a difference)? TBD. Kitchen layout should account for numerous factors, of which duct location is only one. - assume need to use remote or in-line blower with any plan given its non-traditional route? In most cases, an external blower with an in-line silencer will be the lowest noise solution. kas

Cork is an excellent carpet replacement product. It is warm and quiet underfoot. It comes in two formats: A floating click-together format for 'dry' areas and a glue down tile for wet areas such as bathrooms and mud rooms. Yep...you heard me. The glue down cork tile is 100% water proof. As in MORE water proof than vinyl click together products. How? The glue down cork tiles are butted together (no grout lines) when installed. They are then coated x2 with water based polyurethane. The poly seals the seams to create a continuous sheet of cork. The only areas of concern (as with ALL floors in a bathroom) would be at the walls where cork meets drywall. I'm a cork flooring expert. I've done this more times than I can count. A situation like yours were you do NOT want to refinish the entire house because two rooms had issues. Cork is an oak. It has many of the same colour tones as White and Red oak. In fact it starts out quite orange (sigh...ignore that phase of it's life...it doesn't last very long) but soon calms down to a lovely soft yellow which is IDENTICAL to the current laminates you have. Here's how I would do it: I would pick a floating floor that has an IDENTICAL glue down tile option. I would install the floating floor in the bedroom. This gives you the 'total' floor height that you need to match. Now you remove the bathroom flooring and lay in new plywood OR cement backer board (cork doesn't care) to raise the floor up. Now you glue down the cork tile (6mm or 8mm) so that it matches the existing floating floor. Finish the floor in two coats of polyurethane and Voila! A continuous floor with minimal effort. A glue down tile floor (if you hire this part out) is going to cost (labour plus materials) the same as a porcelain tile installation. That's roughly $12-$15/sf. Sounds horrible until you realize you have 30sf to cover...now that's not too bad! A floating cork floor will cost (roughly) the same as a HIGH END vinyl floor installation ($4-$5/sf for materials + $3/sf for labour). www.icorkfloor.com Cork Flooring Tiles Glue Down - Forna Silver Birch 6mm Flooring (icorkfloor.com) Floating Cork Floor - 12mm Forna Floating Cork Flooring (icorkfloor.com) Those are just and example of how to get a continuous floor in two different formats of cork.