My poor nearly leafless tree... how long will it take to regrow?
7 years ago
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Leafless Ficus Alii
Comments (35)Over the years, as I work on roots I work toward maintaining a fairly flat root mass, with the roots radiating from the trunk of the plant pretty much horizontally and all at the same ht level. For the ficus genus, I cut back the heaviest (chunkiest) roots the hardest because over time that helps to even out the amount of energy that goes to various areas of the plant, which helps to prevent weak areas that can die or be shed unexpectedly by the plant. I actually make a mound (cone) centered under where the trunk will exit the soil. I then sort of gently twist the plant into the mound, which helps to ensure there are no voids or air pockets under the trunk. Then. I thoroughly work the fresh soil into the roots with a tool like the white nylon one in the picture but a wood dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpener but with a slightly rounded tip also works well. I'm not being critical, only observing that a pot with no holes becomes progressively more limiting as the planting ages - true even if you were able to furnish water in volumes that would normally be perfect, which would be a task extremely difficult in a drainless container. Pots w/o drain holes are something I would encourage you to avoid if at all possible. You CAN grow healthy plants in a container w/o a drain if you play close attention to detail and everything else is perfect, but unless you're very aware of how to deal with the adversity, you put yourself at a considerable disadvantage. You can help to eliminate some of the perched water a planting CAN hold if you mix rocks or other nonabsorbent chunks into the soil that occupies the bottom of the pot, but the best results will be had when using soils that are airy enough that there is no advantage in employing that strategy. If the overturned pot in 'D' was bricks instead, the PWT would still be the same ht, but the bricks would significantly reduce the amount of soil in the portion of the pot that's CAPABLE of holding perched water, and in doing such could be helpful to plants in water-retentive soils. Understanding the concept explained explained in this thread will go a long way toward getting you over the hump when it comes to growing in containers. Roots aren't a plant's Achilles' heel, but they certainly CAN be the conduit by which soils that drain poorly and hold insufficient volumes of air limit plants from moderately to critically. You'd be very surprised at what kind of (root) treatment a healthy plant will tolerate and quickly rebound from. I took this plant from a root mass that occupied well over 1.5 gallons of soil to a volume of roots that would EASILY fit in well under a teacup with nothing in the way of any sort of adverse reaction. The key is to get your plant healthy so it will tolerate whatever work you might have in mind, do the work at a time most favorable for the plant, then let it recover fully before asking it again to rebound from necessary for its extended well-being but stressful in the immediate. Unfortunately, doing some things in the immediate that are stressful are requisite investments in the plant's future. You just can't allow nature to take its course when it comes to container culture if a healthy attractive plant for the long term is our intention. If you have the inclination, read the info at the link I offered, then ask any questions you might have, or ask for clarification of anything that might seem murky to you. Wishing the best for you ....... Al...See MoreMy poor tree peony
Comments (8)You might consider sinking the pots into the ground, to prevent drying out. I fill pot edge up even with dirt surface, no lip showing on pot, to prevent pot being a water puddle and not draining well. I dig in all the pots with plants when I can't get them settled into permanent locations for a while, even over the winter. The surrounding dirt keeps the pot as moist as the soil, keeps temps even, not over heated like pots will get sitting on ground in the sun. Cooks the roots. If the pot will be in the ground a while, I will also move plant to next larger size pot. Just lift out whole pot of dirt, not disturb roots, just add dirt to sides, bottom, top. A touchy plant or very sensitive one will have me cutting smaller pot off to prevent breaking his rootball, or any delicate feeder roots, then transfer into slightly larger pot. This lets plant continue growing over long time, without becoming rootbound. I usually have a great root system for planting time. Much less work over time with dug in pots, than keeping standing pots watered. Less stress on plants and loss too, as they sit in the ground. No loss of roots when you do move them, just pop the pots out of holes. Plants seem to suffer little shock or stress with removal of plastic pot, replacement in the new dirt hole, they just keep growing in their new home....See MorePoor shape and shade in my front yard. HELP!!!
Comments (7)The internet is a great source of information, but so are books. "The Complete Shade Gardener" by George Schenk is a great source not only for plant information, but also for soil, types of shade as well as inspiration. The book is a few years old now, but I still use my original edition all the time. There's probably no real need to have the soil tested for pH. As gardengal48 pointed out, if you have pine trees growing you can assume the soil is acid. Again echoing gardengal48, your chief issue is not going to be shade; it will be root competition. Try driving a spade into a cleared section of ground. If it is nearly impossible or very difficult to dig, you have a huge mass of roots just beneath the surface. White pines (if that's what you have) are not as awful as some trees, but if they're really "giant" they will be an ongoing problem. If you have areas relatively free of roots, tough plants tolerant of dry shade may well work. The problem with soil improvement (and giving extra water) in such areas, however, is that roots will seek out the new, improved neighborhood and quickly colonize it. The best plan is elimination of the trees - expensive, but probably worth it in the long run. Other options include containers and using plants that can adapt to the conditions. Unfortunately, trial and error is probably the only sure way of doing the latter. I've spent the past 30 years gardening among sugar maples and white pines - many more of which I should have removed when they were small enough to do so. Despite the difficulties and failures, there are more than 100 kinds of rhododendrons, many Japanese maples, more shrubs than it's easy to count, small conifers and numerous wild flowers flourishing, so don't be discouraged....See MoreMy Poor Old Neglected Desert Rose! What to do?
Comments (20)Hi Rick - sorry, no! There must be another Roger who did that and knows Cheryl from Australia. :) All I know about Adeniums is what I've learned watching this one grow over the last 11 years and from the posts on this forum, for which I'm very grateful. Edit: You have reminded me that I once tried to grow Adeniums from seeds. But it was a total failure. :( On 16th Feb 2013 I noticed a strange growth at the end of one of the branches: It grew bigger and the two sides opened up so it was straighter. At that time (18th March 2013) I had no idea what it was: And then it exploded! (7th April): I took a close-up of one of the seeds: And eventually the wind blew them all away: I collected and kept many of the seeds and planted them in about 20 different pots of earth. Some I kept dry, some I watered a little and others a lot. But after several months there was no noticeable growth. I am curious as to why they didn't germinate and if Cheryl from Australia - or anyone - has any recommendations I would like to try again as I have kept many of the seeds....See More- 7 years ago
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- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoPatty (Central FL, zone 9B) thanked myermike_1micha
- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoPatty (Central FL, zone 9B) thanked myermike_1micha
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