midnightgirl, "Where are your best seed sources? I use Thompson & Morgan..." I notice that you are also in a cooler climate, so you should definitely have a look at Stokes Seeds, because they have a good selection of northern varieties. For the same reason, you should consider Johnny's Selected Seeds. I always shop at Burpee's and Park's Seed even though they have seeds for all climates. Those are my "big four", but I also shop, as you do, at Thompson & Morgan and their discount subsidiary, Value Seeds. A catalog browsing session wouldn't be complete without having a look at Harris Seeds, Territorial Seed Company, PineTree Garden Seeds, and for some really off-beat stuff, I enjoy browsing at H. L. Hudson, Seedsman. I haven't emphasized organic and heirloom specialists, because I don't mind growing the newer hybrid varieties. MM

To install another finish, you need to get rid of both the wax and the mineral oil. Check this out, skip to last paragraph. For the mineral oil, I'd wash it a couple of times with a warm, light dish soap solution and a brush - changing the solution in between. Rinse well at the end - try to get rid of all the soap. Let dry at least one day before doing anything else. This should remove most of it. Then 1. Using clean rags and an iron - Yup, iron away the wax. You'd still be sanding, but it'll be less sanding. 2. Sand, then sand some more. If you don't own a non-directional sander, now is the perfect time to invest in one. Hint: Use an open coat sand paper, it will last a bit longer before becoming unusable - it gets junked up with wax. 3. Use a solvent - not recommended for an inside job! It's STILL not going to get rid of it all and it might make it penetrate deeper into the wood. Toulene seemed to be the recommended substance. 4. You can finish with any oil-based finish. I really like Waterlox - its repairable and, like most oil finishes becomes food safe in 30 days. It's particularly nice with walnut - it has a slight golden-brown tint. It's perfectly clear, but the walnut will have a nice warm glow. Alternate Use a furniture wax instead. No sanding or removal of existing stuff needed. Use one of the bee or carnauba paste waxes. Really don't be tempted by Johnson's paste wax in the grocery store - it uses a lot of fairly stinky solvents and smells for a long time! Apply once or twice a year and buff in between. If it's big, use an inexpensive car buffer. Here is a link that might be useful: The furniture connoisseur- get your wax on

Stanton, Mashland, Karastan (higher end) are wonderful products, and I would go wool. However, Smart Strand is a good medium priced option. Agree with Elizabeth B…the padding makes a huge difference. I always recommend SmartStep. It has a waterproof barrier which keeps spills (and other liquids…(woof, woof) from seeping into the pad. Ever tried to remove a stain from a rug, think you have accomplished it and two days later it is back? It is because the culprit is in the pad and not the rug. If. the pad needs to be seemed, have the seem duct taped or as I have always called the product DuckTape.

A small bath needs FEW materials/changes. Go back to the tile shop. The combinations of mosaic and large format are nearly infinite. You are in love with ONE thing from a display. : ) It's not the only tile you can love, nor the only sleek pale beige and ivory bath possible. I don't see the "fantastic" in it, quite honestly. Maybe its the picture.You don't even NEED an accent in the wall tile. Tile doesn't "absorb" . EVER. That's its purpose. Unless you mean needing no seal. That is true of all porcelain tiles. Only stones, marble, slate would need a seal prior to install. PS........ take my advice. Skip the ivory for WHITE > Much fresher and modern